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r we begin our trip with a bright almost ripe yet on the edge of green mandarin cardamom which falls on the spicy side complements the citrus then from ancient markets comes the once rare and precious spice note of cinnamon i love how this plays against the slightly metallic violet leaf note in the opening the midway point of the trip with rahele is a pure lush indian garden after the monsoon a peachy exotic osmanthis is surrounded by the reddest of rose a velvet rose in fact and completely devoid of thorns a fleshy sensual magnolia note hovers above this garden it is moist and nearly dripping in the heat and there in the heart of this rises up a sweet almost hypnotic jasmine the kind of jasmine that lifts the senses in the night the earth below is introduced with purple notes of violet and rooty dry iris at this point the flower notes shimmer and move forward and recede in the most interesting way when we reach our final destination in the base there is a somber smooth finish of patchouli leaves that are packed in layers of oakmoss silky aromatic sandalwood and resinous crisp cedar this nearly finishes the perfume but all is not over the dominating note here and what constantly rises though out the fragrance is a refined supple leather note it never over powers the perfume but rather carries the perfume in subtle grace it seems in the first hour to suddenly die yet by hour two and beyond it returns to tease and tantalize for many hours to come it in fact it undulates on the skin this is pure magic and quite interesting indeed subtlety is the hallmark of this elegant fragrance by no means is rahele ever overpowering or demanding it is suggestive intuitive and lightly sensual a perfect fragrance for both discerning men of taste and chic women of elegant refinement photo above and below from fragrantica neela vermeire https sentsmemory wordpress com 2017 03 29 le roi des diamants rahele by neela vermeire creations feed 8 3849 tumblr_mugnzjux3q1r5dkjoo1_1280 laniersmith the man in the black mustang feu secret by bruno fazzolari https sentsmemory wordpress com 2017 03 28 the man in the black mustang https sentsmemory wordpress com 2017 03 28 the man in the black mustang comments tue 28 mar 2017 19 55 14 0000 http sentsmemory wordpress com p 3825 continue reading the dead never return on the morning of march 27 1964 marie anne lefèvre was started to see her husband in the small café in megève after all he had been dead for five years claude was in the resistance during the war and it was his job to report on possible nazi collaborators he had mistaken marie anne for a woman he was assigned to follow he tailed after her expecting that she was going to meet her german lover at the ritz when in fact she was simply going to 31 rue cambon behind the ritz to buy a bottle of perfume for her mother as he followed he tried to ignore the sway in her walk and how her chestnut hair bounced as it caught the late autumn sunlight when his mistake became clear to him that he was after the wrong woman he followed her to the place de la concorde where with clever machinations around one of the fountains he managed to bump into her causing her to drop her shopping bag breaking the bottle of sycamore he took her back to chanel and bought her a new bottle within the month they were married since the end of the war they had lived a life of small luxuries and great charm for 15 years in paris on the rue d édimbourg it was an exciting time they shared he a leading actor in la comédie française and she with her little art gallery l oeil d or on the avenue george v near the café francis it was a whirlwind of openings both theatrical and artistic that keep their relationship alive and vibrant for each of their passions gave them an exciting day away which afforded a meeting in the evening filled with shared stories of glories and sometimes disappointments equal but separate lives that encompassed love without suffocating it then quite suddenly in the winter of 1958 claude became ill within mere weeks he was gone marie anne stayed on for the next five years in the apartment on the rue d edimbourg until at fifty eight she decided she had enough of the lights of paris she sold the gallery to a young assistant and transferred her life to the small ski resort of megève she moved in to a modest chalet near the résidence maeva le mont d arbois it was a quite solitary life of reading a little writing to friends in paris afternoon walks and always the café in the morning for café au lait and croissants and every day each day without fail she thought of claude but this morning her somnambulistic existence was shattered the trip bell over the door chimed there was a shiver of cold air on her cheek as the door swung open a crunch of snow encrusted boots as a man walked past her where she sat his coat brushed her shoulder there was the conversant smell of eucalyptus pink pepper and vanilla his smell she ignored the olfactory recognition and continued to read her book as her coffee cooled the man ordered his coffee and even though he whispered his voice a warm baritone nearly filled the room it tugged at her right ear and she looked up from her book at first she only noted that he was a handsome man of about fifty two well proportioned and of medium height with wavy black hair that was slightly silver at the temples she looked back down to her novel the scent of the man grew slightly insistent and blended with the smell of roasted coffee beans and fresh warm pastry she looked up again he was sitting facing the window as the sun broke through the clouds momentarily while the snow fell beyond his profile it was claude s profile almost to the exact slope of his forehead down to his strong neck and prominent adam s apple she starred only long enough to drink in the sight of this man who so resembled her love her claude she pulled her eyes away and let them rest on the page of her book without reading a single word she sat there until he left without looking up again the trip bell rang and the door swung open a blast of winter air and then it swung shut with a dull crunch of snow and old wood she looked up again and watched as he walked across the square and got into a black mustang sleek and wild surrounded by peugeots ferraris and citroens it rumbled a steamy exhaust and the red glow of its taillights winked it was strange and beautiful and seemed to be made of sacred fire when he drove away marie anne looked back down to her book she re read the top line on page 156 then closed the book maybe she would see him again but she hoped she would not someone asked me recently how i would compare classic fragrance to what is being made today and i immediately thought of bruno fazzolari he is one of the new perfumers of the last five years who is on to something wonderful a creative process in perfumery that is both modern and classical at the same time i first met bruno at the sf artisan perfume salon 2013 where he was launching his line i was immediately taken by the beauty and sophistication of his work especially in au dela his work for a new perfumer was eons ahead of everyone else at that event what i smelled in that particular fragrance was a time machine to 1947 i was smelling a timeless new perfume by christian dior i was smelling a master s work lighting in a bottle and i knew i was there and very lucky to witness the birth of a star bruno fazzolari what dior did in fashion by bringing glamour and yards of fabric back to the forefront of fashion after the horrors and austerity of world war ii was to create the new look a term coined by carmel snow of american vogue to describe the romantic new movement of the mid 20 th century bruno fazzolari in a very real way in the early 21 st century is doing what dior did he is creating the nouveau sens in perfumery he is bringing romanticism and glamour to the niche market in a way that is both classic and modern and i for one could not be more thrilled in his new fragrance feu secret i find the magic has reached a new level of beauty and artistry it is a dry and warm beauty opening with dangerous and bitter touch of hemlock which is punctuated with a sharp jab of green spruce this is a fleeting tease to the arrival of a warm burning leaves note of the most amazing eucalyptus a smell i grew up with in southern california where in the summer the eucalyptus trees seem to give off a smoky smoldering scent the middle gets even better a light spice not leaning toward ginger is provided by a turmeric note spiced up with pink pepper but here is the kicker iris this note that usually takes on a lip stick max factor quality is this time not in the back stage dressing room on the dressing table waiting to go on at all no this iris is wrapped up in that burning eucalyptus and the combination becomes the sacred heart of this fire the supporting base notes of himalayan cedar burch tar and a rich thick as butter vanilla round out this fragrance and bring it all home in style it is completely wearable for any occasion from day to evening full enough for the colder months but certainly something i would wear in the height of summer that fire that smoke is so perfect for the season so to answer my friend who wanted to know what i love that is both modern and classic j dore feu secret and i adore the work of bruno fazzolari the master perfumer of san francisco https sentsmemory wordpress com 2017 03 28 the man in the black mustang feed 9 3825 feusecret_prtn_lo laniersmith b fazzolari editions 84germ29 world___france_street_cafe_in_the_ski_resort_of_megeve__france_072064_ 34f7cc514ea3dd981eace4c3d01cb1d2 17125439_1766590433656861_2798002693187043328_n hanging around musk pure by tom ford https sentsmemory wordpress com 2017 01 14 hanging around musk pure by tom ford https sentsmemory wordpress com 2017 01 14 hanging around musk pure by tom ford comments sat 14 jan 2017 16 00 43 0000 http sentsmemory wordpress com p 3810 continue reading the screams of the horses where horrifying as they plunged into the cavernous canyon lily chu s british protector had pushed her ahead of himself at the last moment of their dash across the rope bridge the force of that final shove sent her into the side of the mountain and she fell in a bruised heap within a sheltering crevice the pursuing chinese solders could not see her from the opposite side of the gorge where they had shot the support ropes of the suspension bridge causing its collapse lily didn t move some instinct within her held her plastered into the crevice holding her breath she could hear the chinese talking loudly and laughing on the other side slowly she counted to ten as their voices trailed away they were leaving the wind chaffed her ears only then did lily realize that the nepalese men must have fallen to their deaths with the horses is it safe are they gone no one answered it was cold and silent save for the very faint sound of the laughing chinese lily s hand covered her mouth in horror he had fallen with the nepalese and the horses she was utterly alone on the side of a frozen mountain in nepal hey hey an urgent horse cry ravaged the wind lily oh my god where are you the rising sun s rays were creeping down the walls of the mountains as she scrambled out from the crevasse onto the narrow horse path the bridge was gone and only two ropes dangled over the edge of the precipice where once the bridge had been i m just hanging around waiting for the coast to be clear she dropped to her knees and crawled to the edge and looked over the side there hanging onto a few wooden cross slats of what remained of the bridge was the british agent and hanging on to his back was atash far below the river raged having long moments before swallowed up the men and horses and carried them away atash climb up over me and then you and lily can help me up hurry i don t think before he could finish atash was scrambling over him up to lily s outstretched hand come on jim atash called out to his friend as he and lily reached down to help him up so that is his mysterious name lilly thought as his fingers just reached hers yes come on jim you owe me that perfume bath you promised me and i can t very well have it without you he laughed as the morning sun hit him square in the face the ping of lead on rock ricocheted into a sorrowful echo the three looked back down the gorge to see a lone chinese solder at the far bend he must have been the last in line and looked back in time to see the three survivors come on atash urged jim was up and over in a flash grabbing lily and atash they dashed and dogged a fusillade of bullets to the next bend that lead to higher ground and the interior of nepal lily stood next to the little duty free shop in the lukla airport it was closed locked inside there were bottles of perfume lined up along the back wall lilly laughed who would have dreamed that in this backwater there would be chanel dior and tom ford and that it would be closed she really wanted to freshen up if only with a spritz or two of perfume religious holy day miss atash said looking in with her i wear savage miss it is very popular here in nepal come on miss chu jim said we have to say goodbye to atash and get on board before the weather changes its a long flight to jaipur lilly looked out onto what passed for a tarmac and a very short runway that ended on the edge of a cliff a small single engine plane quivered as like a dead leaf as a gust of wind hit it from the side isn t there another way to get to jaipur to india no not from here don t worry only one in six flight are lost on takeoff out of lukla twenty minutes later lily chu rapped in her mink up to her chin sat huddled next to jim as he guided the rickety plane down the runway at break neck speed toward the abyss she grabbed the sides of her seat as the asphalt slipped further and further towards its unforgiving end pull up she screamed we re running out of runway jim let out a whoop and grinned as he pulled the stick towards him at the very last second everything solid fell away beneath the plane as it bounced into very heavy turbulence and began to climb hesitantly towards the misty blanket that hid the himalayas from view well lilly next stop jaipur unless we hit the mountain hidden somewhere in that cloud lily squeezed her eyes shut oh and by the way my name isn t jim at a window next to the duty free overlooking the runway a man stood watching as the plane disappeared into the clouds he walked to the ticket desk and bought a one way ticket on the next plane to jaipur tom ford s musk pure is one of four of the 2009 private blend white musk collection to me it is something of a cliffhanger what do i mean by that well it starts off rather generic fresh and boring and with a very acetate vibe radiating out in the opening that i did not like at all in fact i thought my sample had gone off and turned i was going to dismiss it and wash if off but got distracted by...