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Text of the page (random words):
d stitching line isn t shown in the diagrams in order to keep the diagrams crisp and uncluttered the first 2 methods involve overlapping or butting the ends of the piping in both of these methods the cording remains in the piping and the piping is either crossed over each other or the ends of the piping are butted together to butt the ends together it is helpful to use a hemostat to grab the end of the piping and get a good angle as it is stitched to the garment as shown in the example on the right always check to be sure that there is a smooth and continuous flow where the piping is showing another method involves angling off the fabric this is similar to butting the ends together however with this method the cording is removed from the section of the piping that will be angled off this method reduces bulk in the seam allowance of the garment to remove the cording from inside the piping pull out a small amount of cording at the beginning where the piping will be applied cut off the cording then ease the cording back into the piping fold over the area that has no cording in it at a sharp angle and stitch the piping down end in the same manner removing the cording from the section that will be folded down ensure that there is no gap left between the beginning and the end of the piping the next 2 methods involve encasing the cording inside the piping for an unbroken appearance method 1 encased begin sewing piping 1 away from the end continue around and stop before you reach the starting point remove a section of cording about 3 4 from the starting end fold the cut end down at a 45º angle until it meets the cut end at the lower edge take the opposite end of the piping and place it over the folded edge of the bias cut it off at the exact spot where the cording ends on the opposite side wrap the bias band over the cording and stitch this leaves the piping with an angled seam which disperses some of the bulk at the seam method 2 encased begin sewing the piping to the garment starting about 1 away from the cut end at each of the ends overlap without stitching the ends by 1 2 cut off 1 4 of the cording from each side fold under 1 4 of the bias strip on each side wrong sides together encasing the end of the cording press then fold over the the bias strip so that the cut edges meet the finished bias band has ends that butt up to each other ensure that there is no gap between the sides some of the same methods can be used when the piping ends at a foldline such as at the neckline or waistline of the back of a back buttoning blouse or dress the ends can be angled off as shown in the first methods alternately the ends can be encased using either of the encased cording methods both work well and will give good results as with all techniques practice makes perfect enjoy the process happy stitching this entry was posted in heirloom sewing piping tutorial tutorial and tagged cording heirloom sewing piping on march 10 2024 by kathy buttons buttons buttons leave a reply let s talk about buttons today buttons can make or break a garment there are beautiful buttons available and while they can enhance your garment if executed incorrectly they can wreak havoc on an otherwise wonderful garment both on a front buttoning or back buttoning garment today we ll talk about the blouse but the same rules hold true for a dress that would button in the back a pattern will always include the size of the button required for the garment but what happens when the button of choice is a different size than what the pattern calls for often times the button is chosen after the garment has been sewn and you wish to use what is on hand or you re shopping for the perfect button and it is a different size it s not ok to use a different size button or the finished garment will not look balanced it is always best to choose your button prior to starting on your garment the button size is always the same as the lap on the blouse when the blouse is buttoned the center fronts should sit exactly on top of each other for illustration purposes the underneath part of the blouse is shown raised but on the finished blouse the neckline will be aligned the button is sewn to the center front of the blouse in general the buttonhole size is the size of the button in this case 1 2 1 8 the depth of the button for this example that would require a 5 8 buttonhole if a particularly thick button will be used then the buttonhole would need to be longer going forward the diagrams show the finished blouse edges not the cutting lines make adjustments to the finished edges and then add the seam allowance the buttonhole placement is important as well the buttonhole ends 1 8 away from the center front it is also positioned 1 2 below the finished neckline width of the button shown in the first diagram when executed properly the amount of the blouse showing both above the button as well as from the edge of the button to the edge fold of the blouse will be the radius half the width diameter of the button with this example that would be 1 4 if a different size button will be used then the lap needs to be adjusted before you begin cutting out and sewing the garment so if a 5 8 button will be used then then lap will need to be 5 8 from center front to the edge whether foldline or seamline of the blouse do this by drawing a line in 1 8 away from the center front shown in red adjust the neckline as well this will be the new pattern piece for the blouse a 3 4 buttonhole 5 8 1 8 buttonhole depth would be needed it will still end 1 8 away from the center front the button and buttonhole placement will need to be adjusted from placement on the original pattern in order to accomodate the 5 8 size button using a different size button than the size that was intended will result in poor results and will not look balanced on the finished blouse as shown below the button ends too close to the edge of the blouse front don t be afraid to use a different size button than what the pattern calls for just remember to adjust the pattern prior to cutting and sewing and you ll be much happier with the results have fun with some designer buttons happy stitching this entry was posted in uncategorized and tagged blouse button button placement tutorial changing button size sewing on february 13 2024 by kathy a few more january 2024 makes leave a reply as i attempt to do a better job at sharing my sewing journey with everyone i realized that i haven t shown all of my january makes in our frigid weather i managed to get one outfit completed each week i m sure that pace won t hold up for all of 2024 lol the second make of the year was another dress that i was working on to go along with our saga dogwood slow along it was another one that didn t get saved for demo purposes i just couldn t save it that long i ended up finishing it and loved how it turned out for this dress i used my betsy pattern it is a vintage reproduction and a style that i love i had some mother of pearl blue buttons that i used on the front of the dress so sweet i love this style with the pleats in the front and smocking in the front back i made up an original smocking design for this dress my 3rd make of the year was the dress version of my newest pattern vintage t romper and dress this turned out as sweet as i thought it would i think that this would be the sweetest dress for beach pictures of course it is just as sweet when it is made from casual fabrics i ve made the romper version of the pattern in both heirloom styles as well as casual of course i love the heirloom versions i love that the romper is a unisex one and equally cute either way my 4th make of the year was a dress that i ll be sending off to the appalachian kids ministry putting prayers to action i love being able to sew and support this ministry after completing the dress i add undies socks pj s and a blouse to go with the dress this ministry supports the most vulnerable families with clothing toiletries food and more if you don t sew but would like to participate go to the webpage they have a link with all of the current needs as well as a way to donate funds in addition to getting these dresses sewn i also finished up a handbook for sewing a smocked yoke dress this handbook is to be used in conjunction with any yoke dress shirt or romper it covers every aspect of constructing the garment planning pleating smocking as well as avoiding all the pitfalls of collar construction modifying vintage pattern styles showing lots of sleeve hem options if you ve struggled with constructing a yoke dress this may be a great option for you needless to say january was a very productive month i do hope to enjoy creating many more patterns in the coming months sometimes this process goes quickly but most of the time it takes lots of time i hope you ve enjoyed some stitching time already this year this entry was posted in uncategorized and tagged heirloom sewing kathysheirloomshop kathysheirloomshop etsy pdf pattern romper romper pattern sew along smocking yoke dress handbook on february 6 2024 by kathy pdf pattern tutorial leave a reply as a seller of pdf patterns i constantly get messages from buyers that have problems most frequently with their downloads fortunately the problems aren t problems with the pattern or download but rather problems that the buyer is experiencing due to being new to pdf patterns and not fully understanding how to use them because of this i ve created a pdf pattern tutorial guide that i hope will be helpful to those that are newer to pdf patterns pdf pattern tutorial 1 download in this tutorial you can download by clicking on the download box i cover the process of buying on etsy downloading the pattern printing the pattern assembly of the pattern it is complete with pictures for those that like me are visual learners it is my hope that those new to pdf patterns will use this reference as a guide to make their pdf pattern experience a good one so that they can use them with confidence i ve also included a short description of how the etsy platform regards the reviews that buyers leave it s not quite as favorable as you might think please let me know if you have any suggestions to improve my tutorial happy stitching this entry was posted in uncategorized and tagged how to use pdf patterns pdf pattern pdf pattern tutorial on february 3 2024 by kathy first dress of 2024 leave a reply our saga guild is doing a yoke dress slow along each month a different aspect of the yoke dress will be covered samples shown and demonstrations i think it s going to be a lot of fun as one of the presenters at the meetings i made a plan to have several dresses at different stages of construction so that they could be used as examples of how to do the various parts of construction it was a great plan i started on a few dresses however i ve discovered that slow along is not my forté lol once i get going on a dress i get so excited to see the finished garment that it s really hard for me to put it aside for a few months well that s exactly what happened with this dress i did work slow it took me 4 days to complete it which is much longer than normal but in the end i just had to finish it i guess i ll be working on other dresses as it gets closer to each meeting so that i don t run into this same issue hahaha this is the finished dress and i m so thrilled with how it turned out the dress is made from imperial batiste that makes it very practical as it is easy wash and wear with minimal if any ironing needed the smocking was done with 2 strands of dmc floche and the embroidery on the collar sleeves and hem was done with 1 strand of dmc floche of course if floche isn t readily available the smocking could be done with 3 strands of dmc floss and the embroidery with 2 strands and it would look very similar the sleeves have just a touch of embroidery added i think it s a sweet addition the bodice features 3 tucks on each side of the center with 2 flowers embroidered in the center panel the collar has groups of embroidery all around the back features baby blue mother of pearl shank buttons and the collar has a bit of embroidery in the back as well due to a mistake but i like the end result the hem has been pinstitched with 80 weight thread and a size 110 schmetz jeans needle 2024 is off to a great start i ve enjoyed every stitch of this pretty dress and can t wait to work on the next one stay tuned keep on stitching kathy this entry was posted in uncategorized on january 4 2024 by kathy happy new year leave a reply today marks the beginning of another new year new adventures to take new skills to learn new friends to make etc i hope and pray that the new year will bring health contentment joy to each of you i am not one to make new year resolutions that said i will keep my thoughts for the new year to be sewing related i like to look back at the previous year to see what i accomplished and then look forward to this new year and see what i want to accomplish my goals for that tend to be very similar from year to year i want to keep learning new techniques new stitches and try new patterns i also plan to continue to put new patterns in my etsy shop as i can get them finished i enjoy designing the patterns and i continue to learn and improve my illustration skills so that the patterns as well as the illustrations are the best that i can do our saga guild is doing a yoke dress slow along in february i will be doing a segment on collars so i ve been working on a few samples that i can use as demonstration examples wouldn t you know that i ended up with a problem i made a mistake rather than fretting about the mistake i considered it a design opportunity yesterday i worked on embroidering collars for this project in spite of the fact that i had clearly marked the center front i somehow ended up marking the placement dots for the flowers on the collar backs ugh it wasn t until i had the 4th of 6 flowers completed that i discovered my mistake my first thought was that i would complete the group of 3 flowers on the back and then do them on the collar fronts where they should have been in the first place and that the dress would look pretty both coming and going however i still felt that this might look like a corrected mistake which it was then i had the brilliant idea to add a group of 3 flowers to the center of the collar and voila now it is a design element and not a mistake excuse the unpressed collar it is still drying from when i soaked out the blue wash out marker i m going to count this as my first new year success i didn t have to un stitch anything and i like the new design even more than just having 3 flowers at the collar front i often find that a mistake can result in some creative thinking and then end up being something that i wouldn t have considered but end up liking a lot i am going to have to hold myself back from finishing up this dress i need to save it for february easter comes early this y...