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Text of the page (random words):
g it by hand seriously that s my thing i do all the fun parts by hand and if i ever tire of it i make my machine do it i d say a good 90 of this gown was done by hand the not fun 10 was done by my baby lock soprano so the english stitch is where you have all those fabrics all pinned together the seam allowances already tucked away you pin the two pieces you ve basted right sides together wrong sides out then you get a very strong piece of thread a thimble and you start from one end skip the lining go to the fabric stitch through all three layers the outside fabric the outside fabric the lining right at the edge and then pull through then from the side you re on do that back always skipping the layer closest to the needle if this is still unclear to you check out my video on my meet felicity dress https youtu be dt8wzts_mo8 it s right there for you to watch see this is where youtube is superior to blogging also this was explained beautifully in abby cox s book so that should help too please notice the edges along the bottom were kept raw this gets folded down and stitched by hand the edges left raw on the inside don t fret though this is completely historically accurate you d be shocked at how many seams were left raw and unfinished in 18th century garments on the inside even ball gowns beautifully finished in every way on the outside will have just unfolded unstitched edges on the inside so i did the english stitch for the center back seam as well as the two side seams between the back pieces and the next side piece i have a finished picture of the back because i forgot to take a photo of it before i added it to the sides now for the front piece which also acts as the side piece i started with the lining portion first i cut this out in some strong cotton twill and folded over the line at the center front i sewed in the channels in the center front by machine this has three channels the center front for boning the next column empty so you can sew in eyelets and then another channel for boning these channels are made by folding over the front edge under i did sew the eyelets in by hand using a very sharp awl and some buttonhole thread by the way i highly recommend the tapered awl by clover if you don t have one yet https a co d 6plhlag but never travel with it i had my last one taken away by tsa honestly this step is so silly since it would only take me an hour and a half but these two center pieces with the need to do the buttonholes sat in my two sew bag for a good 8 months before i finally got around to sewing the eyelets once they were done i then ironed down the seam allowances at the top and bottom and sewed them flat on my machine since this part is boring and was finally ready to add it to the back this i sewed in by machine to the prepared back pieces meaning the four back pieces i d already sewn together using the english stitch i pinned on the straps and made sure that it fit and it fit beautifully so i stitched that part down by machine now i added in the front panel the two front panels pieces were ironed around on all four edges and then i pinned them wrong sides together to the front panel lining piece in cotton twill now heads up the front edge was about 1 2 wider than the lining piece in front so that there would be overlapping in the center front of the gown this was stitched down with a spaced back stitch by hand since this would be seen on the top the bottom and the side back i did not sew the front of the pink exterior fabric to the very front of the lining where the eyelets are this way i can still lace it up in front and then the fronts will then be pinned together the 18th century method is to iron down the seam allowances first put the fabrics wrong side together and then sew it using tiny pin prick stitches it s very satisfying but of course more time consuming i do find the fiddly bits a lot of fun though i was now ready to add the sleeves i stitched the sleeves by hand i could go into it more but since it s fairly complex to describe and i don t want to take the wind out of someone else s sails i ll just say that i used the method described in the english dress pattern by at the sign of the golden scissors it s done by hand but is so satisfying to sew that i always just use that method i did use machine to sew in the darts at the back of the sleeve but did do everything else by hand once the sleeve was stitched i attached it to the bodice along the bottom 6 from the back point where the strap meets the back arm hole for around 6 7 i then put on my corset put on the dress and closed the front this is important and then had my husband pin the sleeve onto the arm strap for me pinning all the way back smoothing the fabric over my shoulder head and pushing all the bulk to the back this is how it was done historically as well after the excess fabric was pleated to 3 small pleats in the back and then stitched to the shoulder strap with my machine i then covered up this mess with the linen fabric with the seam allowance pre ironed in and the wrong sides together this was stitched down by hand meanwhile i prepped the skirt i knew that i wanted the skirt to be 43 long in the back and 40 in the front and go over my little split bum pad i wanted this portion to be 120 wide or twice the selvedge so i sewed two pieces of fabric together to make one long piece of fabric 45 tall and 119 wide i hemmed the front edge by folding it over twice and sewing the edge down by hand using a matching silk thread i hemmed the bottom 2 all the way around i then pleated the fabric up to around 8 5 on either side of the center seam line with 1 4 pleats the 8 5 was what i determerined to be the length from the point at the back to the side where i wanted it to sit in the front this might be different for other people once this was all pleated with pins i sewed it down with a basting stitch in a contrasting thread for easy removal later then using a very strong thread well waxed i stitched the skirt to the bottom edge of the bodice 2 3 stitches per pleat the fabric on the inside gets pushed downwards the center seam in the back is cut open so that it folds down easily and the dress portion is done the petticoat was done using the american duchess method as described in her book and i didn t vary this at all also i forgot to take photos so i m going to skip this portion but yes the dress was done and i was madly in lvoe with how it came out i ll have a new post about the apron early next month with free patterns but i hope you love the dress as much as i do felicity was a great model july 25 2025 sewstine leave a comment making abigail adam s silk fichu an adventure embroidering on silk mesh i think the absolute dream i have is to one day embroider on silk mesh in such a way that i can make my own 18th century lace honestly with my first two machines such a thing was not possible the silk netting was too weak and the tension was too high that i got a ton of tears and heart break luckily my next machine was much better the tension could be lowered to a significant degree and i was able to embroider on even very delicate silk netting i now use a a baby lock venture and i m finding that with significant play making lace is feasible suggestions when making lace use 2 3 layers of dissolvable interfacing i use baby lock dissolvable which is fairly thicker than most that i get on amazon so i m able to get away with only two layers if i am using another brand i tend to use 3 layers to make up for the thinness lower the top thread tension as much as humanly possible increase your bobbin pressure not a ton but just enough to make sure none of it will show on the out side most importantly lower your speed i find that when i m making lace it s best to go at the lowest possible speed i usually use 400 stitches min which is the lowest on my venture materials i use silk netting but completely honestly finding real silk netting for less than 120 yard is very difficult i used to have a source but last i checked they were completely out of real silk netting i would recommend polyester netting if you can t find silk it still generally embroiders well do avoid nylon netting at all costs it s weak and can t handle all the buse you ll be doing to it thread i use fairly lightweight kimono silk thread at 100wt works beautifully comes in many colors 10 10 will totally recommend now let s talk about abigail adam s fichu i worked closely with sara of founding mother on instagram who is a legit actress who portrays abigail adams and a brilliant costumer to boot to work on this i had been thinking of digitizing this for a while based on the painting by gilbert stuart here is a closeup of it i m just so impressed by how translucent it really is so from the painting sarah was able to deduce that the fichu is likely two layers due to it being a square that is folded in half diagonally i m inclined to agree wtih her since from the painting you can see the shadow of the second layer underneath it now one reason i was particularly keen to digitize this is becaues a little portion of the actual fichu exists a collector actually has a tiiiny piece of the fichu that survives which if actually the real one and it looks accurate to me shows it to have been silk embroidery on silk netting i don t feel comfortable sharing someone else s licensed images so i ll just link his page here so after sarah and i decided to go with silk netting i started digitizing the design i initially started with the scallop border on my software palette 11 by baby lock i used a stem stitch for the swags and a satin stitch for the actual scallops i ended up switching to a fill stitch for the scallops 120 stitches inch and keeping with the stem stitch 0 04 wide for the swags i then used the closeup of the portrait to zoom in and put the swirls close together i ended up making 3 distinctly different swirls and rotating them out in the actual final fichu having more then one that you switch out occasionally does a good job of making the embroidery look more handmade sarah was able to tell me that she wanted the scallops to be about 7 8 wide so i used this as a guide to keep everything else in proportion and i was able to come up wih a repeating design that we were both happy with again you ll notice that each swirl and each swag is not exactly the same this is intentional and actually much harder than justy copy pasting a lot but i feel this is so important when doing 18th century reproductions so that it has a chance of looking hand made now i turned this into a square design we decided to make the final fichu 34 x34 of note square designs like this are a pain in the butt to embroider the problem is that when you re trying to embroider especially something as malleable as silk net it will shrink and pull the problem with a square design is that when you have to end up exactly where you started things can get messy i let sarah know that there would be some wonkiness at the starting point and i got started first i broke up the design into 11 pieces so it would fit my machine you ll notice that this looks just like the last design but i put lines where i planned to break up the design and you ll notice a 1 2 and a 3 to show how i m going counter clockwise i m chaotic good with the design and plan ok d by my client sarah i got everything ready then i started to embroider so of course i started with the first panel you ll notice there are lines that help place the next part so i just started going at it i initially planned on doing this 1 part every two days do it over three weeks since this particularly embroidery netting requires me to sit next to the machine in case it gets stuck so i can emergency stop it since it tears so easily however i got myself hooked and i did it in a week this is me lining up the last piece as expected ad warned there was a little bit of wonkiness right at the end to make it all line up properly but let s be real can you even see the wonkiness i then cut away the excess dissolvable interfacing and removed the marking stitches do this before you was for the first time is my suggestion i then wahed it in warm water to get rid of the dissolvable interfacing and then i let it dry then with a tiny pair of embroidery scissors and infinite patience i sloooowwwwly cut away the outside netting and it left me with this now i m pointing out the wonkiness here for sarah s sake but can you see it how about now how about now so i m pointing all this out to let all of you perfectionists know it s ok for things not to be perfect i have studied actual 18th century garments and you can find mistakes everywhere it s ok it s human it proves it s man made you ll notice i intentionally put in imperfections to make it look more 18th century and hand made rather than machine embroidered in any case sarah loved it and she is now working on the actual gown so she can really dress up as the gilbert portrait also i loved it too so i plan on making myself one too so that s all i ve got folks happy embroidering ps if you do want to embroider this for yourself have a 14 x8 hoop and don t want to digitize it yourself i m selling the files in my shop here sewstine shop september 29 2020 sewstine 2 comments the victorian red dress i feel like any movie made in the 1990 s and early 2000 s set in the victorian edwardian era had to have the female lead character in a red dress this defined her as our central female and she stood out so beautifully in the film you can see this in mina murray s dress in bram stoker s dracula satine in moulin rouge my personal favorite and countess olenska in the age of innocence the age of innocence moulin rouge outlander it was my dream to wear a victorian red dress for prom sadly my mother refused to sew me one and i didn t have the skills back then i ended up with a cute but not nearly dramatic number from bcbg so when i found out about the prior attire ball in bath in may 2020 i absolutely decided this was the time to make this gown fyi the ball was canceled due to covid 19 hope is to go next year the best part was i already had the perfect fabric in mind for months now i had been collecting samples of red silk satins from different shops nydesigner fabrics mood silk baron but mood won out they had the perfect red called roja red and it was a gorgeous silk duchesse i bought 11 yards of this the goal was an 1880 s bustle dress based on this particular fashion plate from 1887 i loved it the black birds or are they crows the pleated underskirt the draping so for the bodice there was no perfect pattern so i used the truly victorian 1886 bodice for the underskirt i used my go to the truly victorian four gore underskirt for the overskirt i thought this one by ageless patterns looked quite similar so i went with that one ageless pattern 1273 1888 red satin brocade toilette for the most part the construction of the dress was very similar to my black and white striped go...