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a pleated mini skirt 08 2017 burda mini skirt butterick 4686 view d b4686 possibly still a bit more dressy work looking although that could depend on what fabric i choose it looks great on blogger kiku corner mccall s 7725 m7725 i would level off the yoke seam and hem so they are horizontal rather than diagonal again i m not sure i would have thought of using this pattern without seeing this version on pattern review the crescent skirt from sewaholic crescent skirt i m not sure how this would work with my hips but in theory it ought too as sewaholic designs for pear shapes which also does the trick for hourglasses too when it is a skirt trouser pattern the yasmin yoke skirt from maria denmark yasmin skirt and then a couple of wild cards the sasha skirt from friday pattern company sasha skirt the marie wrap skirt from rosy peña marie skirt which is free if you sign up to rosy s newsletter the jupe longue ivy from dessine moi un patron ivy years ago i had a gorgeous dark green silky skirt from monsoon that i loved and this pattern reminds me of it hugely nostalgiamoments oh the happy times i could have sewing my way through that list not exactly time or cost efficient though hence for now my plan is to sew the mindi from style arc in a gorgeous denim i got from sew me sunshine electric blue stretch denim and if it goes well suits me i will also make it in this coated denim purple coated denim the lindy petal skirt from itch to stitch in a navy ponte also from sew me sunshine such a dangerous shop for my bank balance navy ponte the yasmin yoke shirt from maria denmark in i m not quite sure what yet the jupe longue ivy might have to sneak in there too in fact spoiler alert i ve already sewn one of these four just finishing it today but as this rather wordy and very short on pictures post has already raged out of control somewhat i ll do a separate post about that very soon does that countas a cliff hanger sashaying in my sasha trousers on 10 06 2018 10 06 2018 by tailoredbykate 1 comment ahem sorry for that terrible pun if it even counts as a pun but anyway i ve made a pair of sasha trousers from closet case patterns sasha trousers from closet case patterns ha edited to point out the above photo isn t me it is the photo from the closet case site and what an awesome pattern it is these have been on my burgeoning to make list ever since i finished my ginger jeans blog post for those here ginger jeans blog post i loved the fit of the gingers and read somewhere that the sasha trousers are based on the same block i have been wanting to sew a pair of smarter tailored looking trousers for a while and was tossing up between the sasha pattern and the sew over it ultimate trousers my love of the gingers plus heather lou s amazing instructions swung me towards the sasha pattern and i m so glad about that decision said instructions were so good that i found the construction process to be pretty smooth sailing i m getting a bit more confident with a fly installation although i still have to follow the instructions in careful minute detail i omitted the rear welt pockets as this is my wearable toile pair so i didn t want to spend all that extra time on those until i have the fit worked out i also left out the belt loops more or less for the same reason i basted the inner leg and side seams together as heather lou recommends to check the fit i ended up reducing the seam allowance to 1cm at the waist and high hip staying at 1 5cm to the bottom of the front pockets and then increasing to over 2 5cm on the inner and outer leg seams next time i think i will grade down one or possibly even two sizes down for the legs i did a 1 2 sway back adjustment to the pattern from the outset as i was sure i would need that i m really happy with the fit at the back so that was clearly the right thing to do the fabric is a medium weight stretch piqué that i m pretty sure i got on sale from minerva crafts it is a rather vibrant candy pink but i thought sod it i can pull this off as a pair of summer trousers worn with a lot of navy and as it turns out i really like their brightness it s good to push myself out of my comfort zone from time to time now for photo overload oh i ve just remembered that i followed the suggestion to sew twill tape into the sloping edge of the front pocket but the slight bulk of the tape i used meant when i was turning over the pocket and intending to roll it so the seam was just slightly to the inside it didn t want to roll smoothly and was going to be bulky i noticed though that if i left the seam showing on rolled to the right side the presence of the twill tape edge underneath actually made it look a bit like flat piping nicely highlighting the pocket edge so i went with that slight mistake transformed into a design detail i love the way sewing lets you come up with get away with things like that looking at the photos of my rear oh what fun i think i may need to scoop the back crotch a little to do a low rear adjustment plus adjust the thigh seam somehow there is a little bit of baggyness at the front crotch lower tum area so i have already adjusted the pattern with a 3 8 overlap at the front rise seam on the shorten lengthen here line ready for the next pair i m planning to sew i already have a gorgeous china smoky blue stretch cotton drill from sew me sunshine which is the most amazing online fabric store by the way good grief the money i could spend there ok that i may already have spent there so there we go i heartily commend this super pattern to you bellatrix blazer much more lovely than the usual image on 27 05 2018 27 05 2018 by tailoredbykate 1 comment image from harrypotter wikia com this bellatrix link to pattern no affiliates or anything just a link i have had this pattern in my stash for a while glinting at me whenever i rifle through my patterns it is from papercut patterns a new zealand indie pattern company who also created the coppelia cardy of which i have made four so far i knew this pattern involved a few skills and experience i didn t have when i first bought it and hence it has been waiting patiently for me to catch up ever since with this sort of close fitting style i knew a toile would be essential i had some satin backed crepe in my stash that i had bought online but wasn t at all what i expected when it arrived much thinner and the crepe side wasn t usable it really did just look like the wrong side of the fabric hey ho i thought it wasn t expensive so i just popped it in my linings drawer however it would be perfect to use as a toile for this hooray i read through the instructions a few times first until i was sure i had my head around how it would all come together on that note the instructions are generally excellent clear without being overly long and good diagrams there were a couple of bits where i thought a few more words and details might have been in order but nothing i couldn t work my way through with a bit of thought and twisting the pictures back and forward and upside down a few times these instructions are much more to my taste is that tactful enough compared my last make my m7536 dress the jacket has a lot of interfacing and i realised that i wouldn t get a true picture of the fit with the toile unless i interfaced it too so i figured by the time i did all the interfacing i might as well make the whole thing properly so that it would be a wearable toile at least it would also give me good practice for the main event and i would have something to show for all the time spent interfacing i tried out block interfacing for the first time it took ages but i think it was worth it as the pieces held their shape well from being interfaced before being cut plus it saved the time of cutting the fabric and the interfacing pieces separately i also used a different princess seam fba technique for the last dress i made referred to above i did the standard way that fbas are shown in the dressmaking books i have where you measure out the required fba amount from the fullest point of the princess seam and then blend a new curve into the upper and lower bits of the existing pattern line but this doesn t work so well with bigger fbas and you can end up with a distorted curve that is more than a little pointy and gappy not the look i am going for i did some googling and came across this brilliant tutorial fba tutorial i can t recommend it highly enough beautifully clearly written and it worked a treat i did an fba of 1 5 8 to make an extra 3 1 4 in total i didn t curve the side seam back in at the waist in order to give the extra room i needed there i chose the size based on my high bust measurement not my full bust i also did a sway back adjustment of 1 2 other than those i didn t do any other adjustments at the pattern stage oh but i was feeling all proud of myself for remembering to alter the collar interfacing pattern piece when i did my fba until i came to attach the lower jacket pieces at the lining front and found they were too short because i hadn t adjusted them when i had effectively widened the upper front bodice piece as part of the fba whoops i belatedly had to adjust the pattern piece interface more fabric and cut four new pattern pieces i started by making the lining first and apart from the above daft moment it all came together like a dream the 1cm 3 8 seam allowance really helps for sewing the princess seams i must remember that i then tried on the lining to see how the fit was looking i was really pleased with it but saw that it could come in a little more underneath my bust i left it as is for the lining because it is always helpful to have that a little bigger but i cut out a little scoop from the main fabric pieces in readiness for sewing those next the finished lining section this was my first time doing a welt pocket and i was super pleased with how they turned out it was definitely easier doing these ones as my first go as they sew into a seam rather than having to cut into your sewn up garment what a gulp moment that must be i really hugely enjoyed sewing this blazer truly a satisfying sew and i now can t wait to make the blazer in the real fabric i have for it a lustrous french navy satin back crepe with glorious drape and both sides able to be used it is from clothspot one of my absolute favourite online fabric shops the navy crepe at clothspot can you tell how much i love this pattern and this navy fabric my plan is to make the jacket with the crepe showing and then use the satin side for the lapel similarly to how i did my etta dress now that i think about it the two would go nicely together happy days adding my ogden to the plethora on 27 05 2018 27 05 2018 by tailoredbykate 1 comment there are so many gorgeous versions and terrific reviews of this pattern out there already i probably don t need to add anything further but hey since i m here i bought this true bias pattern ages ago but was waiting for summer to make itself felt before i made it up i m hoping the fact i ve now made it won t wreck the summer weather for pdf patterns i m most definitely a send it to an online copy shop kind of woman printyourpattern com being my preferred one rather than cutting and sticking the a4s together mostly this is to save time so i can use it for actual sewing but also because i am clearly just a bit rubbish at the sticking bit no matter how carefully i cut and line up there are always bits that just won t match up cue me getting frustrated and grumpy but this pattern is just 13 pages if i remember correctly so i felt i really could manage with this one but again perhaps just me i really couldn t get some bits to sit even close to having the size lines match up i checked the test square all was fine but some pages had the completely wrong size lines butting together anyway i did my best and re blended several lines i think i got it roughly right in the end i should have spent more time on arts and crafts as a child i was in two minds more like about four actually as to what fabric from my stash would be the lucky winner for the wearable toile the fabric i really wanted to use was a little heavier less drapey than the pattern really calls for but the other options seemed better suited for various reasons to other wearable toiles i have planned so i decided to go for it with this lovely fabric it is a brushed cotton medium weight and has a little drape but isn t properly drapey for the pattern itself i made a few changes several reviews mention that it comes up large in the hips sides so i cut a size smaller than the chart measurements indicated i then did an fba to give me more space across the bust but also to create a bit more shaping i definitely don t suit boxy or unstructured styles sadly the dart helps a lot but i may rotate it into a french dart next time to shape the sides more i will probably take it in at the sides a touch as well i also lengthened the facing pieces by 3 to cover the full extent of my bust and i widened the straps just a little 3 8 in total to give a better chance of covering the wider bra straps that tend to come with the size i wear which helped but i will widen the straps by the same again next time widening the straps meant i also had to widen the top of each shoulder piece on the front back and facings so they would all still line up when sewn all of this meant i basically had to adjust every single pattern piece sigh as i was doing this i mulled over the fact that this is why i tend to make several versions of patterns once i have adjusted them to fit me i m still pretty new at this pattern alteration stuff and it can take me a while to do all the alterations that i am learning i often need fba sway back adjustment forward shoulder adjustment sometimes a wide rear adjustment i then want to make the time spent worth it and sew lots of versions of the pattern it helps though that i really enjoy planning the looks and style i am after and coordinating them all so everything all works together having multiple but different looking versions suits my style and sewing personality i guess anyway leaving aside my random musings once the pattern was all adjusted and ready i had fun sewing this top even with all the stay stitching and understitching it is a fairly quick sew but some nice touches to concentrate on like neatly attaching the shoulder straps worn here with my ginger jeans and bellatrix blazer i am very happy with the finished top the fit across the neckline in particular is just as perfect as everyone says my fba had the effect of filling in more of the underarm area too and i didn t redraw the curve as i suspected this would help to reduce any gaping bra showing there a fairly common occurrence for the busty amongst us this seemed to work nicely although i will adjust the pattern a little further to fill in some more space as you can still see the side of my bra a bit you can see a bit of the bra straps too and whilst i probably won t be able to ...