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Text of the page (random words):
ain leeway in officers dress if you want to give a decent impression of infantry officer of the time red is the only choice another problem is time scale throwing 20 30 characters into the mix on what is always a very tight schedule is not an easy option and sometimes a leading actor or actress hasn t been confirmed so the size to make to is academic until the last minute i m not saying we don t consider some indeed we have an enquiry at the moment for a film out of l a and we certainly see our garments being worn on t v about twice a day on average sometimes it s an actor or re enactor who specialises in a particular period sometimes the wardrobe department who has ordered in bulk sometimes we ve clothed a regiment even our wedding was televised for yorkshire t v 2 x 30 min programmes for the series i thee wed just to prove how deadlines work we had 13 weeks to put on a spectacular wedding make sure that everyone was costumed find an historical venue find 3 chefs 13 serving staff dress them as well devise a timelined historical banquet 11 courses starting with roman then saxon and ending 9 courses later in victorian the web album if you re interested is here all this while being filmed and having claire and michaels wedding clothes to produce as they were getting married on the same day see photo so unless we have a little time to plan gini would much rather be consultant posted by tony at 10 24 no comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels film t v prairie house i thee wed friday 21 may 2010 wool trade off most of the materials used in historical clothing are getting harder and harder to find decent wools and linens can nowadays be more expensive than a good silk how different from most periods in history when wool and linen were the staples of the garment trade the make up of wool has also changed in the last 150 years before this time when wool was hand woven the thread was usually a lot thinner and the thread count per inch was a lot greater most coats and uniforms would be made raw edged because this sort of material is far less likely to fray i wonder what sort of demand there would be for this type of wool today 150 00 per metre anyone that is not the only change in wool through the ages one of the difficulties in making medieval hose is due to the weave of the wool available medieval hose are cut on the bias and wool today stretches at very different rates than that available in the past this would mean making a new pattern for every type of wool used the original wool made with a mixture of s and z ply in other words one of the threads was twisted the opposite way this gave the material incredible stretch almost as good as lycra you will notice when you look at medieval paintings that most hose look like they are painted on and that s the reason nowadays wool is woven with s ply only giving significantly less stretch meaning that it is almost impossible to give a smooth fit that will not tear in movement this is why re enactment is littered with baggy saggy ill fitting hose so we could have it made the last time we asked we worked it out it would cost an investment of 12 500 for a medieval colour palette too large an investment when you consider that these are just one of the garments out of the hundreds we produce or we could use material that had a small percentage of lycra there are two reasons that won t happen 1 it is dangerous near fires 2 we expect our clothing to last a decent period of time once the hose had been washed a few times the lycra would be washed out and you d be back to the baggy saggy old cloth look again ah well back to the drawing board the picture shows some decent melton wool posted by tony at 10 59 no comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels linen silk superfine melton wool wool friday 30 april 2010 ahhh cute the tiniest shirt we have so far had to make in the picture you ll see an original taken from clothes the child by ann buck isbn 0 903585 29 4 the other picture is the copy after the inevitable oooohs and ahhhs from the staff at break it got me to thinking about just what is it about miniature clothes that induces that reaction in women and female costumiers in particular most little girls like dressing dolls we think it s a sort of hardwired thing where nature is way ahead of nuture and as they grow older only the style of doll changes on seeing a small child s clothing most ladies will not remark on the style or materials and instead will say isn t it tiny or isn t it cute apprentices in the furniture workshops of the world often turned out exquisite apprentice pieces to show their mastery of the craft and in some cases they are now worth more than the full size alternatives miniaturisation also happened in fashion history where dolls were made as fashion messengers or fashion envoys if you will being sent out by makers to clients and even to the courts around europe in a pot luck survey a lot of costumier s dressed dolls in their childhood especially those that work in the historical field were they subconsciously starting out on apprentice pieces if so then why aren t samplers still popular some think that by definition children s clothing should be cheaper than adults we can quite see why people arrive at that belief clearly there is a cost saving on fabric but the cutting is more demanding as there is less tolerance so any imperfections in stitching will glare and extra time could be needed to make up small nimble fingers are required which in history children were employed for ahhh not so cute posted by tony at 18 02 no comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels clothes and the child ann buck fashion messengers fashion envoys sunday 18 april 2010 re sizing one of our friends was remarking the other day that he d been into a popular store to get some shoes and the assistant had some bad news for him when he requested his size 10 english you want a size that is outside the ordinary and of course they sell out first he was told the same applied when he contacted someone on line for regency boots i m sorry we don t stock boots with that calf size but we get a lot of requests for them the voice on the phone said clearly there is something wrong here the question also came up yesterday in a discussion we were having about tailors dummies and dress forms it seems to us that those on sale at the moment do not reflect the modern body and haven t done for a few years now notwithstanding the possibility that all of our customers are unusual in some way we don t think so this tends to suggest the industry supporting the fashion clothing world are out of step with changes in national body shape for men women and children if this is true it beggars belief given the sheer volume of published surveys documenting these very changes for the longest time britons have suffered the lack of any standardised sizing in the shops when we are told by a client that they usually take a dress size 14 english again for example we have to ask where they are shopping marks spencer have very different sizes to monsoon for instance nape to waist measures particularly in men are elongating our male dummies are permanently extended to their maximum length and we are noting this is is not enough on average by 1 1 2 we are talking adjustable tailors forms here but display forms are also seriously out of kilter four to five years ago this did not seem to be an issue we would be be very interested if others are finding the same thing as alfred pearlman once wrote after you ve done a thing the same way for two years look it over carefully after five years look at it with suspicion and after ten throw it away and start all over again so to those that make tailors dummies your ten years are now up the picture shows a modern display dummy reformed to give a 1660 corseted shape posted by tony at 20 52 no comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels alfred pearlman display dummies tailors forms monday 12 april 2010 primary source an entry in my diary for thursday reads fit in bath it wasn t to remind me to change our hygiene facilities but to remind me that a couple of our customers from luxembourg were having a holiday there and we had to meet them for a fitting while we were there we had a few other appointments but managed to do a couple of other things and played at being tourists for a change we visited the jane austen centre and found that dave baldock and his team had changed the mannequin of captain francis austen we also visited the bath fashion museum as collections like that always have something to teach us using extant garments the actual original garment is what we call primary evidence or primary source writings of the time woodcuts and portraits we call secondary evidence modern writings tertiary evidence this differs from the way that most modern researchers classify but it suits us the first thing to mention is that everything must be checked even original garments could have been changed in fit or in purpose or even in colour secondary tertiary evidence can be even worse as each step away from the original can bring bias perspective and the sometimes limited knowledge of the writer into play most costumiers out there will have made something following the patterns of janet arnold who was one of the best researchers of historical costume don t get us wrong we think that she was one of the best ever and we use her books all the time here s the but we have done the same but if you see the original garment after studying janet s patterns you will notice the odd detail not included or that you interpreted a detail quite differently from the original even though it was notated even if the garment you re making is not meant to be accurate surely as an historical costumier you should know the differences the pictures show a couple of amusing fashion plates from the many many hundreds of secondary source plates we have here posted by tony at 12 51 no comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels primary source jane austen centre fashion museum bath janet arnold older posts home subscribe to posts atom gini 1770 gini a rare appearance in costume about me tony view my complete profile chimera costumes s fan box chimera costumes on facebook places to visit ginis workshop lecture site nicoles lovely late 17thc site living history forum karen larsdatters wonderful medieval site john white a brilliant interpreter one of our favourite places williamsburg tonys music workshop site the waits site rifleman harris toad shakos modern tailoring at its best tonys ceilidh band folk tune finder blog archive 2011 2 december 1 dec 12 1 chimera costumes regrets to announce that we have september 1 sept 03 1 2010 14 august 1 aug 13 1 july 1 jul 16 1 june 1 jun 23 1 may 2 may 28 1 may 21 1 april 3 apr 30 1 apr 18 1 apr 12 1 march 2 mar 31 1 mar 03 1 february 2 feb 28 1 feb 24 1 january 2 jan 28 1 jan 13 1 2009 21 november 2 nov 24 1 nov 01 1 october 1 oct 07 1 september 2 sept 21 1 sept 06 1 august 2 aug 18 1 aug 09 1 july 2 jul 21 1 jul 06 1 june 1 jun 17 1 may 1 may 24 1 april 4 apr 30 1 apr 28 1 apr 23 1 apr 07 1 march 1 mar 22 1 february 2 feb 27 1 feb 10 1 january 3 jan 25 1 jan 14 1 jan 08 1 2008 20 november 2 nov 26 1 nov 17 1 october 2 oct 24 1 oct 06 1 september 2 sept 24 1 sept 16 1 august 5 aug 28 1 aug 27 1 aug 20 1 aug 07 1 aug 05 1 july 2 jul 29 1 jul 13 1 june 2 jun 13 2 march 2 mar 21 1 mar 17 1 february 1 feb 17 1 january 2 jan 22 1 jan 15 1 2007 14 december 2 dec 14 1 dec 01 1 november 4 nov 20 1 nov 15 1 nov 12 1 nov 02 1 october 8 oct 26 1 oct 18 1 oct 17 1 oct 16 1 oct 14 1 oct 13 1 oct 11 2 labels henry viii 3 95th rifles 2 elizabeth i 2 military odyssey 2 silk 2 tudor 2 embroidery 2 linen 2 wool 2 georgian stays corsets 18th century corsets 1 gini newton authentic historical costumes 17th century costume costuming historical costume history birmingham museum and art gallery ochtervelt the music room historical clothing 1 historical fashionshow video t o r m the original reenactors market 1 alfred pearlman display dummies tailors forms 1 britain in bloom vauxhall pleasure gardens 18th century gentleman birmingham 1 captain arthur phillip admiral arthur phillip sydney australia world wide web new south wales dutch mannequin 1814 govenor 1 clothes and the child ann buck fashion messengers fashion envoys 1 e c w historical clothing customising 1 early tudor ceilidhe band music workshops 1 elizabethan gown tudor pearls bugle beads velvet linen guards 1 fashion forensics c s i of clothig victoria and albert museum kyoto institute 1 festival of history needlecase costumed interpreter 1 lady worsley 1 mastercrafts tales from the green valley edwardian farm victorian farm monty don ruth goodman alex langlands peter gill 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