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leil smells mainly of creamy coconuts and white florals gardenia jasmine and magnolia combine to evoke a lushness set against muted citrus notes caramel and soft wood notes surround the tropical heart but never quite permeates it worn on its own the creamy floral notes remain strong and lasts several hours worn over sunscreen the citrus notes fade away more quickly but the remaining scent seems to last even longer the blue of azuree soleil s bottle seems to allude to the beach tropical does spring to mind perhaps because of the creamy coconut note but the beach perhaps less so for me i don t detect the salt water note that many others seem to detect yet i often pair it with sunscreen so perhaps there s something in that theory incidentally the turquoise blue of the bottle also makes me think of it as a precedent to tom ford s other sea coastal inspired scent neroli portofino though of course the latter is a completely different scent housed in an even more luxurious dark turquoise bottle with a price tag to match i like neroli portofino but not as much as azuree soleil there s just something in it that makes me actually almost want to lose myself in the heat and humidity of sydney s summer almost editions de parfums frederic malle en passant the soliflore florist 21 wednesday nov 2012 posted by jenson in beauty editions de parfums frederic malle perfume perfume review 5 comments tags damp en passant grass lilac olivia giacobetti amongst all my perfumes editions de parfums frederic malle en passant reminds me the most of a visit to the florist where apart from the obvious beauty of so many different flowers i enjoy being engulfed by the heady mix of blooms freshly cut stems leaves and water when writing about a scent i usually make notes of all i smell as the day progresses before continuing with some research on the scent the following day i then spray the scent on again then start writing about what i smell referencing notes from the day before looking at my notes well what can i say it didn t really help me very much at all this time i can t detect any cucumber bread wheat or orange tree leaves notes as in other reviews now smell this i smell therefore i am the scented salamander very much like olfactoria s travels review all i detect is lilac but what a lilac it is it begins indolic but soon morphs into the scent of old school florists blooms water soaked and freshly cut stems with a hint of grass more than anything it smells damp the way i always remember lilacs smelling and it stays this way for several hours the scent is strong too two squirts on me is plenty three squirts becomes slightly suffocating at the end of the day when shower water runs down the part of my neck where i sprayed en passant the scent is revived again and for a while it strangely smells and feels soapy in fact this soapiness has such tenacity that it takes some scrubbing to completely remove all traces of it from my skin far from being a scrubber though i enjoy wearing en passant on cloudy days summer days or simply to re create my own hyperreal florist the author behind en passant is olivia giabcobetti looking at a list of her work i am amazed by how many of her perfumes i have unknowingly amassed or coveted over all these years i guess it just took frederic malle and his exceptional editions de parfums line to really shine a spotlight on olivia giabcobetti s talent and make me a true groupie serge lutens fourreau noir dark paradise 15 thursday nov 2012 posted by jenson in beauty music packaging perfume perfume review serge lutens 5 comments tags bell jar forever blue fourreau noir lavender les salons du palais royale myrrh smoke swing out sister tobacco tonka i was determined i really was i did my research tested as much as i could and decided to limit myself to only one fragrance when i visited les salons du palais royale in paris unfortunately the lure of serge lutens was more than i could bear and fourreau noir was amongst the damage at least i didn t inexplicably find myself leaving that store with one of their limited editions bell jars on first application fourreau noir immediately brought about a wave of nostalgia wafts of sweet tobacco swirl and swirl around lavender and incense months later it finally dawned on me that this actually smells of my dad dad was a lover of fougère colognes in fact he would douse himself with so much cologne that his clothes would still smell of whichever scent he wore after it was laundered he also smoked fourreau noir reminds me of how he would sometimes smell a kind of lavender scent weaved into smoke i usually dislike to put it mildly the smell of secondhand cigarette smoke and don t even get me started on cigar smoke but i am strangely compelled to fresh tobacco and sometimes the lingering scent of cigarette smoke on clothes post purchase i ve come to learn that fourreau noir means black sheath now i m pretty sure that references a black dress or clothing material but the first thing that came into my mind was a black leather sword sheath although i think the latter would be more appropriate i can definitely see the allusion to a black dress fourreau noir after all calls out for a more dressy occasion its melancholic character almost deems it impossible for it to be worn on a bright sunny day although that said i d happily wear it just pottering around the house there s also a sweetness to fourreau noir that makes the dress allusion appropriate though the candied fruit aspect common in many of serge lutens fragrances is played down here instead sweetness comes from myrrh and tonka beans that becomes more prominent after the initial smoky phase almond is also listed as a fragrance note but that has always been a note that eludes me i cannot of course speak about the serge lutens exclusive line without any mention of the bell jar glass falcon i simply adore it the look of it the act of dabbing on scent from the stopper the substantial weight of the glass bottle i could go on for quite a while but of course on the flipside it definitely makes it a stay at home scent since travelling with it is virtually impossible being a worrywart i m also alarmed how i can still smell the scent up close even when the stopper is completely jammed into the opening in fact there s enough of the scent to fill up any small enclosed space where i store the bottle is the precious juice actually slowly evaporating away also has anyone noticed sediments settling at the bottom of the jar speaking of juice i find the actual colour to be quite fascinating it mostly appears a warm amber but in dim lighting it takes on an autumnal leaves olive brown quite appropriate really as i find myself often reaching out to it in cooler months or nights despite its dark nature fourreau noir to me is a pretty straightforward scent that only brings out blissful memories and on that note cue in swing out sister a band i absolutely love but has sadly and quite unjustly in my opinion faded into music limbo there is often a longing in their music that reminds me very much of fourreau noir sixscents series three no 5 087 black and blue 08 thursday nov 2012 posted by jenson in beauty packaging perfume perfume review sixscents 4 comments tags 087 beauty engine oil moody no 5 series three soapy woods with the turn of the seasons over here in australia the weather is becoming increasingly erratic the heat and humidity one minute followed by spells of rolling thunderstorms the next has battered my sinuses senseless it also makes me feel blue enough to finally sit down to slowly explore sixscents series three no 5 087 a collaboration between fashion designer n hoolywood and perfumer stephen nilsen the entire six scents concept seems pretty complex annually a group of six emerging fashion designers are selected to create a series of six fragrances with six celebrated perfumers in order to raise awareness and funding for a deserving charity our goal is to create a new way for people to engage with fragrance through creativity with a conscience in its third series six scents focuses on memories an exploration into the nature of childhood memories and the influence of adolescence on identity each perfume is made in a limited run mine is bottle number 807 of 3000 each scent also comes with elaborate packaging a thick slider box houses the scent a dvd enclosed in a portrait of the fashion designer and a 34 paged booklet in that it extensively outlines the six scents concept the fragrances background stories profiles of designers and perfumers and artists in addition to full profiles and credits of the short films included in the dvd well i did say that i had to be in a certain mood to fully explore all that was included with the scent i m a sucker for packaging but less so with extras give me a stunning scent in a beautiful bottle instead any day the dvd contains features of each scent in the series as well as ten short films features about the scents itself were interesting enough and did make me feel like revisiting some of them but the short films mostly three to four minutes long were completely unrelated to the fragrances i didn t pick up on any common running theme apart from them being mainly moody abstract pieces that wouldn t go out of place as video installations in many modern art museums around the world the sixscents concept also leaves me ambivalent on one hand proceeds to charities is never a bad thing but as for its lofty ambitions of being an experimental project challenging boundaries of perception intersection of senses emotions and intellect well broken down the fragrance is ultimately not unlike other fragrances a collaboration between a perfumer and a designer based on a certain concept including unrelated visual pieces doesn t quite translate to me as challenging the other senses i m unsure of the popularity of sixscents perfumes but i did manage to try many of them when i was in hong kong over the years but was never really tempted to purchase any besides 087 mostly it was too difficult to keep up and smell them all as for the ones that i did the actual scent unfortunately didn t seem to live up to their often intriguing back stories or listed fragrance notes when i did try 087 though something felt different on first spray a soapy note immediately brought about some sort of familiar comfort it took me quite a while to realise that it actually smells of engine oil which i happen to adore for better or for worse hinoki woods and rounded fir balsam notes add some strength to the scent along with hints of incense and herbs the volatile fumes then slowly dissipates into a rounder softer scent as it wears on emphasising the sweet salty aspect inherent in engine oil on the whole it feels modern but not necessarily edgy its counterparts would probably be cdg synthetic series scents or bulgari black or even l artisan parfumeur dzing daisuke obana of n hoolywood talks about the scent in the dvd feature of how often in the busy city we can t have places or environments that we can get relaxed in and so the perfumer stephen nilsen created a juxtaposition of memories of engine oil in daisuke father s car against the scent of nature resulting in a scent to relax as for me 087 doesn t cause me to be nostalgic but instead allows me to ease and surrender myself to the blues tauer perfumes discovery set colour me tauer 02 friday nov 2012 posted by jenson in packaging perfume samples tauer perfumes 10 comments tags andy tauer beauty discovery set samples spray vials tauer perfumes look at what arrived in the mail today i ve purchased tauer fragrance samples before but never directly from the andy tauer website if you can t tell i m pretty excited because i really didn t expect the discovery set to be housed in such gorgeous packaging ok so i m a sucker for all things that look nice you can pick and choose five different scents for the set i chose a mixture of some that i ve sampled previously like lonestar memories and incense rose and others that are new to me une rose chypree orange star and the collectible zeta the discovery set is housed in a sturdy and smart metal box that ensures all its contents remain in mint condition the metal lid then cleverly slides open to reveal spray cards five individual scent descriptor cards and the perfume samples housed under them the turquoise in the inner case is a nice touch slight indentations in the case hold the vials in place how impressive is the packaging first thing that came into my mind apart from wow was thoughtful the discovery set really houses everything in perfect condition and is so easy to use and store away how refreshing as well to find all the scent notes provided for each scent as head heart and body notes as well as ingredients listings to top it all off for me spray vials yes unlike other perfume sample vials this means that i don t need to fiddle around with those little plastic stopper things that inevitably gets precious juice all over my fingertips and or spilling all over those miniature vials the discovery set was very reasonably priced and i m excited to be able to sniff more tauer scents more on the actual scents later but for now suffice to say a full bottle of an andy tauer fragrance seems almost imminent fresh brown sugar the sweetest rush 01 thursday nov 2012 posted by jenson in fresh perfume perfume review 1 comment tags brown sugar eau de parfum lemon sweet when the house is filled with sunlight sans humidity all i want to do sometimes is just douse myself with fresh brown sugar it s everything you would think it ll be light and cheerful infinitely wearable one spray delivers a hefty dose of juice lemon and sugar hits you immediately with some light florals and amber to add warmth to the dry down more than anything it smells more like lemonade without the fizz like most fresh scents tenacity seems to be a bit of a problem even for an eau de parfum brown sugar s projection becomes surprisingly weak after two hours though a warm lemon scent does linger on the skin for quite a while more no matter re spritz away i was curious as to how brown sugar actually compares to the real thing so i took a big sniff of a pack of brown sugar in my pantry if anything i was reminded of how complex the smell of actual brown sugar is a sweetness rounded with the warmth of caramel and a slight bitter edge especially compared side by side brown sugar seems to be a bit of a misnomer as it becomes more obvious that it lacks the depth of the scent of molasses present in the natural substance i actually don t mind this one bit and appreciate its simplicity in fact there s an innocence about it that tends to conjure up childhood memories for me i always find myself lured to fresh counters by their myriad of pretty little bottles scented candles and soaps all laid out there just pleading to be sniffed i often spritz the scents on tester strips and sometimes on my skin i must be the most annoying cus...