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favicon.ico: tr4arestoration.blogspot.com - '67 Triumph TR4A Restorat.

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site title: '67 Triumph TR4A Restoration

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il you can fully remove the whole trim piece the fender trim is basically the same story only longer and without an anchor pin the end furthest forward shows the open channel and your trim will be sliding off toward the rear of the car lightbulb moment you should now see why the doors were removed before tackling the trim otherwise one trim piece blocks the other good to know eh since you don t need to hold one end up like you did for the doors it s a little easier but because there are more rivet buttons more force is needed to get the momentum going once you re able to get about 6 inches off the fender it s a lot easier to grab hold of the free end where the door was and yank if your fender trim gets stuck options are slightly different than above you can use a light hammer and something less hard than metal to nudge the trim from the open front end i used the plastic handle of a small screwdriver and tapped lightly with a hammer you don t want to damage the trim s end even though that end is hidden from view by the side light it could get caught on the buttons if it gets chewed up at all if the trim puts up a fight and you start working up a sweat just forget about it and wait until the fenders have been removed to pop the rivets from behind as above ya dig cool so we re left with the grille the bumpers and the fenders at first it seems pretty straightforward just continue where we re at and remove the fenders right wait a sec what b hole got paid to design that rear bumper does it really go through the fender how do i get to that bolt who the hell welded this is that a spider were some of the questions i asked please feel free to add your own colorful inquiries about british automotive engineering choices the secret to the puzzle go bumpers grille fenders bumpers the front bumper is the easier one and should be fairly painless to remove grab a ratchet and a wrench and crawl up under the front end you can leave the overriders bumperttes and mounting braces on and take the whole thing off by removing the two mounting bolts at the front fascia cowl once the bumper is out of the way the two mounting brackets can be removed from the frame behind the cowl the rear bumper is mounted a little different and the mounting brackets go through the body in several places making disassembly more compelling there are a total of four brackets that go through the rear cowl and two bolts that go through the rear fenders to support that cool wrap around bumper i m sure there are many ways to skin this cat but i found the easiest way is to loosen the two side flare bolts first don t remove them just loosen them up a little then move to the overriders they unbolt from behind through one set of braces then remove the chromed bolts on each corner brace the rear face should now just be resting on the mounting brackets now remove the side bolts that you loosened earlier and lift the bumper right outta there you can then remove the rear and side brackets from the frame done and done grille moving on to the front grille the grille is secured by way of obvious not so obvious and just plain unintentional fasteners the bolts on the top should have been removed when all of the wiring was disconnected if not they ve got the obvious label here i trust you know what do with them there are also two screws at the bottom of the grille in the middle there accessible from behind via the airflow passageway even with the hood removed it s easier to go from underneath the car if your grille comes off easily now be proud you have a very decent grille and front end for the rest of us time or previous owners have conjured mysterious bonds that have unconventionally jammed that grille in there somehow releasing the grille from the front end s evil clutches may take some additional investigating and manhandling look for any additional screws bolts rivets or even damage that s preventing its removal if there s nothing obvious the grille itself could be distorted bent so see if you can just yank that sucka off then go grab a beer or two fenders although there s no particular order needed to remove the fenders you might as well start with the front ones since you re already there from underneath the front end along the valence fender fenceline there should be a few bolts holding things together they might be covered with muck dirt undercoating rust etc but if you start with the bottom most bolt you should see progressively increasing slack between fender and body work them up until you have some play on the front fender up to where the hood line is stop sidenote the beading between the fender and body was a convenient and dressy way to hide the body seams back then it can be secured in any number of ways so you don t need to worry about it until your fenders come off now go where your door hinges secure to the a pillar and peek your head inside the car where the kickpanel used to be there are three coves each housing a bolt remove those and relocate yourself to under the fender just forward of the rocker panel three more bolts now follow the trailing edge of the fender up to the top it curves out up and around to reveal another bolt that may have been removed when you took the windshield frame off inspect that area for any remaining bolts and when the coast is clear move to the top rail of the fender here you ll find a number of screws holding the last bit of the fender to the engine compartment remove them all leaving one of the middle ones for last so your fender doesn t just fall off once you re convinced that the last screw is the last screw holding the fender on hold onto the fender and remove the screw you should be able to wiggle the fender off fun huh do the same for the other side the rear fenders are secured in a similar fashion except the top edge is concealed within the trunk spaces start under the rear of the car and remove the few rear cowl to fender bolts that should loosen the fender up to around where it meets the tail light housing next there are three bolts inside the forward part of rear wheel well securing the fender to the b pillar these bolts might be covered and or smothered but should be fairly easy to remove there s also one bolt underneath just aft of the rocker panel you should now be left with just the top row of 8 bolts along the inside of the body the first few can be removed easily from the interior of the car they get progressively difficult to remove as they proceed back the hardest bolt is in the corner above the tail light housing like the front fenders leave one of the middle bolts until last preferably one of the easier ones to get to from the outside again once you are certain that the last bolt is the last bolt loosen it while supporting the fender it should break free with relative ease repeat intermission time the fender rails are notorious for rust issues because they are not sealed they offer a place for water to stagnate and they re exposed inside the wheel wells for these reasons you should be extra vigilant while inspecting trs before purchasing look all around the wheel wells as well as inside the trunk this is what you should have by now well that and a pile of parts are you ready i said are you ready let s get this body off that frame all of the prepwork you ve done leading up to this moment should make this an easy effort but don t call your posse just yet there are bolts to be unbolted and nuts to be unnutted going from front to back there are quite a few engine compartment at the front wheel wells near the radiator mounts along the frame rails and along the wheel wells interior either side of the transmission in the footwells along the door rail a group of four and a group of three either side of the handbrake and seatbelt eye bolts trunk from underneath center bolt that doubles as your spare tire hook thing at the rear of the frame rails need to go through the frame to find the bolt there s a nutbox above the frame there once you think you have all of the bolts removed you can test lift the body at each corner to ensure it ll part from the frame any amount of give will indicate it s ready if your e brake cables are still hanging out in the cab push then through and out of the way now are you ready call the cavalry and at least four people to grab hold of each corner ensuring they have enough strength and height to lift the body high enough to clear the engine heave ho it s surprisingly easy to lift with four people huh now where to put it whether you re doing the metal paint yourself or sending it out you ll need somewhere to stash the body for some amount of time luckily the tr4 bodies are fairly rigid and they can support their own weight so there s no need to brace the door frames like you might on other restoration projects a couple pallets railroad ties or stacked 2x4 s on the ground will suffice as a temporary base until you find a more permanent resting place so there you have it my body out for shopwork my rolling chassis ready for homework congratulations this is a major step in the resto process your first qualifier that this project is a true frame off restoration more good things to come posted by jason merkel at 1 38 pm no comments labels classic car english restoration tr4 tr4a triumph wednesday february 8 2012 coventry iron calling well hello all if you recall from the last post i kiddingly posed the absurd notion of contacting keith martin of sports car market magazine to encourage the collectability rating of the 1967 tr4a to be raised well i kinda did that but not really what i did do was submit pictures and a short description of this beautiful tr4a to keith martin s tv program what s my car worth to be appraised their response keith was quite impressed with it he really enjoyed seeing the photos although probably part of a form letter this was good news the better news was that they chose the car to appear in the mailbag section of episode 309 detroit iron calling that aired on november 9 2011 although the collectability rating was still a c mr martin praised the quality of the restoration describing the car as extraordinary and better than new and finished the appraisal with your car is special if you were to sell it i d ask 35 000 and i d hold firm a great sign of where the market is getting up to on these huh and a story that we ll revisit later a somewhat crappy picture from the tv stay tuned for more restoration blog posts posted by jason merkel at 1 02 pm no comments labels classic car english restoration tr4 tr4a triumph thursday july 21 2011 i ll take mine rare please i have been frequenting cars and coffee on saturdays in irvine ca for a few months now i bring my car others do the same and you wind up with a decent mix of cars to look at and people to talk to some people look at my car and wind up talking to me my dad owned a car just like this my first car was a triumph or i ve always wanted one of those are at the top of the list these little british sportscars are quite memorable and i think it s great that mine evokes so many memories from the crowd occasionally an enthusiast steps up and talks more about the car than his recollections of yesteryore are those webers did you do the work yourself and is that a 4 or a 4a are some of the forerunners conversations with these dudes regularly turn into triumph lineage discussions and eventually get to something like i bet you wish this was a tr250 you never see those around if you run around with any semblance of a triumph crowd long enough you will invariably hear about the rare and mysterious tr250 at the most basic level the tr250 has the body of a tr4a with the drivetrain of a tr6 and served as the segue between the two models at least in the states only produced for one model year and thought to only have been built for one calendar year 1968 most people don t know that there were some made in 1967 but alas this post is not meant to retell the history of triumph nor list the particular specifications of their cars i ll leave you to your own devices to conduct further research on the subject i introduced the tr250 purely because of its perceived uncommonness to establish that even the more common 1968 250s are generally considered to be rare cars and from that i have come to realize that my 1967 triumph tr4a is a rare car as well in fact whispering even more rare that s right folks my angle is a numbers game here and numbers don t lie i was recently perusing the pages of bill piggott s original triumph tr4 4a 5 6 the restorer s guide and a table identifying triumph s productions numbers per year caught my attention 3 600 tr4as were produced in 1967 huh and over 6 000 tr250s in 68 that s news to me here i was thinking i have some common car that i m supposed to wishfully think is something rare baloney where were these figures before how could this conspiracy have gone unchecked for so many years who is keyser soze the list of questions grew i needed to set the record straight on this extraordinary loophole in perception and and do what should i let the reminiscent know about this the next time they recount days gone at cars and coffee or start a campaign to seek out tr250 owners and ask them if they wish their cars were 1967 tr4as or write keith martin himself at sports car market magazine and demand he raise the collectability rating of the 67 tr4a from whatever it is now to an a all of the above nah i d rather enjoy my news quietly undefiantly and respectfully i think i ll write a blog about it postscript the tr250 is actually an interesting car and none were harmed during the production of this blog rumor has it that the tr6s were scheduled to begin production but the german styled karmann chassis was in metric opposed to the standard english styled tooling and assembly plant this created a delay and the tr250 was born out of creative necessity rather than careful planning we ll continue with the restoration process shortly stay tuned posted by jason merkel at 7 05 pm 1 comment labels classic car english restoration tr4 tr4a triumph thursday april 21 2011 re moving forward now that you ve enjoyed willie nelson s on the road again again and again it s time to move on but first an update in realtime after a short bout with a pesky oil leak and more hours than i intend to admit rejetting syncing my weber carbs all systems are go and i ve clocked 32 7 exhilarating miles so far yes willie we ve made it i ll refrain from my customary routine of saying how busy i ve been or how i intend to post more posts and just continue from where we left off getting back to our punch list we re about 2 3rds into the tear down and sometime around april 2009 in blogtime jumping right back into the swing of things we ve removed the top hood trunk lid windshield the entire interior gas tank engine brake clutch controls wiring and lights you should still have your grille doors bumpers and fenders intact we ll focus on the doors this round and str...
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