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e walls of the old roman fort 33 cardiff castle has been at the heart of the city ever since 34 the castle was substantially altered and extended during the victorian period by john crichton stuart 3rd marquess of bute and the architect william burges 35 original roman work can however still be distinguished in the wall facings a town grew up under the castle consisting mainly of settlers from england 36 cardiff had a population of between 1 500 and 2 000 in the middle ages a normal size for a welsh town in the period 37 it was the centre of the norman marcher lordship of glamorgan by the end of the 13th century cardiff was the only town in wales with a population exceeding 2 000 although it remained relatively small compared with notable towns in england and continued to be contained within its walls which were begun as a wooden palisade in the early 12th century 38 it was of sufficient size and importance to receive a series of charters notably in 1331 from william la zouche lord of glamorgan through marriage with the de clare family 39 edward iii in 1359 40 then henry iv in 1400 40 and later henry vi in 1404 owain glyndŵr burned cardiff and took possession of the castle 41 as many of the buildings were made of timber and tightly packed within the town walls much of cardiff was destroyed the settlement was soon rebuilt on the same street plan and began to flourish again 37 glyndŵr s statue was erected in cardiff town hall in the early 20th century reflecting the complex often conflicting cultural identity of cardiff as capital of wales besides serving an important political role in the governance of the fertile south glamorgan coastal plain cardiff was a busy port in the middle ages and declared an english staple port in 1327 county town of glamorganshire edit view of caerdiffe castle cardiff old town hall 1860 in 1536 the laws in wales acts 1535 1542 led to the creation of glamorganshire and cardiff was made the county town it also became part of kibbor hundred 42 around the same time the herberts became the most powerful family in the area 36 in 1538 henry viii closed cardiff s dominican and franciscan friaries whose remains were used as building materials 37 a writer in this period noted the river taff runs under the walls of his honours castle and from the north part of the town to the south part where there is a fair quay and a safe harbour for shipping 37 cardiff became a borough in 1542 41 and further royal charters were granted to it by elizabeth i in 1600 43 and james i in 1608 44 in 1573 it was made a head port for collection of customs duties 36 pembrokeshire historian george owen described cardiff in 1602 as the fayrest towne in wales yett not the welthiest 36 it gained a second royal charter in 1608 45 john speed s map of cardiff from 1610 a disastrous flood in the bristol channel on 30 january 1607 now believed to have been a tidal wave 46 changed the course of the river taff and ruined st mary s parish church which was replaced by a chapel of ease dedicated to st john the baptist 47 during the second english civil war st fagans just to the west of the town the battle of st fagans between royalist rebels and a new model army detachment was a decisive victory for the parliamentarians that allowed oliver cromwell to conquer wales 41 it was the last major battle in wales with about 200 mostly royalist soldiers killed 36 cardiff was at peace throughout the ensuing century in 1766 john stuart 1st marquess of bute married into the herbert family and was later created baron cardiff 36 in 1778 he began renovating cardiff castle 48 a racecourse printing press bank and coffee house opened in the 1790s and cardiff gained a stagecoach service to london despite these improvements cardiff s position in the welsh urban hierarchy declined over the 18th century iolo morganwg called it an obscure and inconsiderable place and the 1801 census found a population of only 1 870 making it only the 25th largest town in wales well behind merthyr and swansea 49 building the docks edit main article cardiff docks in 1793 john crichton stuart 2nd marquess of bute was born he spent his life building the cardiff docks and was later hailed as the creator of modern cardiff 36 a twice weekly boat service between cardiff and bristol opened in 1815 50 and in 1821 the cardiff gas works was established 50 after the napoleonic wars cardiff suffered some social and industrial unrest starting with the trial and hanging of dic penderyn in 1831 51 jubilee dock cardiff from the eastern side 1849 the town grew rapidly from the 1830s onwards when the marquess of bute built a dock which eventually linked to the taff vale railway cardiff became the main port for coal exports from the cynon rhondda and rhymney valleys and grew in population at a rate of nearly 80 per cent per decade between 1840 and 1870 much of this was due to migration from within and outside wales in 1841 a quarter of cardiff s population were english born and more than 10 per cent born in ireland 52 by the 1881 census cardiff had overtaken merthyr and swansea to become the largest town in wales 53 cardiff s status as the premier town in south wales was confirmed when it was chosen as the site for the university college of south wales and monmouthshire in 1883 49 a permanent military presence was established with the completion of maindy barracks in 1877 54 cardiff faced a challenge in the 1880s when david davies of llandinam and the barry railway company promoted rival docks at barry these had the advantage of being accessible in all tides david davies claimed his venture would cause grass to grow in the streets of cardiff from 1901 coal exports from barry surpassed those from cardiff but the administration of the coal trade remained centred on cardiff in particular its coal exchange where the price of coal on the british market was determined and the first million pound deal was struck in 1907 49 the city also strengthened its industrial base when the owners of the dowlais ironworks in merthyr who would later form part of guest keen and nettlefolds built a steelworks close to the docks at east moors which lord bute opened on 4 february 1891 55 county borough of cardiff edit cardiff became a county borough on 1 april 1889 under the local government act 1888 the town had grown rapidly and had a population of over 123 000 it retained its county borough status until 1974 56 clarification needed city and capital city status edit main article capital of wales st john the baptist church cardiff the only medieval building next to cardiff castle to still be in city centre seen here in 1852 national museum of wales cardiff king edward vii granted cardiff city status on 28 october 1905 57 it acquired a roman catholic cathedral in 1916 later more national institutions came to the city including the national museum of wales the welsh national war memorial and the university of wales registry building but it was denied the national library of wales partly because the library s founder sir john williams considered cardiff to have a non welsh population 49 following a brief post war boom cardiff docks entered a prolonged decline in the interwar period by 1936 trade was at less than half its value in 1913 reflecting the slump in demand for welsh coal 49 bomb damage in the cardiff blitz of world war ii included the devastation of llandaff cathedral and in the immediate postwar years the city s link with the bute family came to an end on 20 december 1955 in reply to a question in the house of commons the home secretary gwilym lloyd george said that due to the volume of support for the idea in wales the government would regard cardiff as the capital city of wales a step that would not require formal recognition 58 caernarfon had also vied for the title 59 welsh local authorities had been divided only 76 out of 161 chose cardiff in a 1924 poll organised by the south wales daily news 60 the subject was not debated again until 1950 and meanwhile cardiff took steps to promote its welshness the stalemate between cardiff and towns such as caernarfon and aberystwyth was not broken until cardiganshire county council decided to support cardiff and in a new local authority vote 134 out of 161 voted for cardiff 60 cardiff therefore celebrated two important anniversaries in 2005 the encyclopedia of wales notes that the decision to regard the city as the capital of wales had more to do with the fact that it contained marginal conservative constituencies than any reasoned view of what functions a welsh capital should have although the city hosted the commonwealth games in 1958 cardiff became a centre of national administration only with the establishment of the welsh office in 1964 which later prompted the creation of various other public bodies such as the arts council of wales and the welsh development agency most of which were based in cardiff redevelopment in the city s historic cardiff bay area the east moors steelworks closed in 1978 and cardiff lost population in the 1980s 61 consistent with a wider pattern of counter urbanisation in britain however it recovered to become one of the few cities outside london where population grew in the 1990s 62 during this period the cardiff bay development corporation was promoting the redevelopment of south cardiff an evaluation of the regeneration of cardiff bay published in 2004 concluded that the project had reinforced the competitive position of cardiff and contributed to a massive improvement in the quality of the built environment although it had failed to attract the major inward investors originally anticipated 63 in the 1997 welsh devolution referendum cardiff voters rejected the establishment of the national assembly for wales by 55 4 to 44 2 on a 47 turnout which denis balsom partly ascribed to a general preference in cardiff and some other parts of wales for a british rather than exclusively welsh identity 64 65 the relative lack of local support for the assembly and difficulties between the welsh office and cardiff council in acquiring the originally preferred venue cardiff city hall encouraged other local authorities to bid to house the assembly 66 67 however the assembly was eventually located at tŷ hywel in cardiff bay in 1999 in 2005 a new debating chamber on an adjacent site designed by richard rogers was opened government edit main article politics in cardiff see also cardiff council and senedd offices of the welsh and uk governments in cardiff the hq of the welsh government in the crown buildings cathays park cardiff the hq of the uk government s secretary of state for wales in william morgan house the senedd welsh parliament welsh senedd cymru has been based in cardiff bay since its formation in 1999 as the national assembly for wales the senedd building was opened on 1 march 2006 by the queen 68 the members of the senedd mss the senedd commission and ministerial support staff are based in cardiff bay cardiff is represented by twelve mss in two constituencies caerdydd ffynnon taf and caerdydd penarth these constituencies for the senedd are formed by pairing up the westminster constituencies each constituency returns six members to the senedd the most recent senedd election was held on 7 may 2026 caerdydd ffynnon taf is represented by zaynub akbar plaid cymru nick carter plaid cymru dafydd trystan davies plaid cymru cai parry jones reform uk shav taj welsh labour and paul rock wales green party 69 caerdydd penarth is represented by anna brychan plaid cymru leticia gonzalez plaid cymru kiera marshall plaid cymru joseph martin reform uk anthony slaughter wales green party and huw thomas welsh labour 70 map of the four westminster constituencies covering cardiff in pink since 2024 1 cardiff west 2 cardiff north 3 cardiff south and penarth 4 cardiff east at westminster cardiff is represented by four constituencies cardiff east cardiff north cardiff south and penarth and cardiff west the welsh government is headquartered in cardiff s cathays park where most of its civil servants are based with smaller numbers in other central locations cathays canton and cardiff bay 71 there are other welsh government offices in other parts of wales such as llandudno and aberystwyth and there are international offices 72 local government edit cardiff council buildings city hall is home to some of the council s departments and council chambers county hall is the head office between 1889 and 1974 cardiff was a county borough governed by cardiff county borough council known as cardiff city council after 1905 between 1974 and 1996 cardiff was governed by cardiff city council a district council of south glamorgan since local government reorganisation in 1996 cardiff has been governed by the city and county council of cardiff based at county hall in atlantic wharf cardiff bay voters elect 75 councillors every four years between the 2004 and 2012 local elections no individual political party held a majority on cardiff county council the liberal democrats held the largest number of seats and cllr rodney berman was leader of the council 73 the liberal democrats and plaid cymru formed a partnership administration 74 in the 2012 elections the labour party achieved an outright majority after gaining an additional 33 seats across the city cardiff is divided into communities several with their own community council and the rest governed directly by cardiff city council elections are held every five years the last contested elections would have been held at the same time as the 2017 cardiff council election had there been more candidates standing than available seats those with community councils are lisvane 10 seats 75 old st mellons 9 seats 76 pentyrch 13 seats 77 radyr morganstown 13 seats 78 tongwynlais 9 seats 79 st fagans 9 seats 80 geography edit main article geography of cardiff the centre of cardiff is relatively flat and bounded by hills to the east north and west its location influenced its development as the world s largest coal port notably its proximity and easy access to the coalfields of the south wales valleys the highest point in the local authority area is garth hill 307 m 1 007 ft above sea level cardiff is built on reclaimed marshland on a bed of triassic stones this reclaimed marshland stretches from chepstow to the ely estuary 81 which is the natural boundary of cardiff and the vale of glamorgan triassic landscapes of this part of the world are usually shallow and low lying consistent with the flatness of the centre of cardiff 82 the classic triassic marl sand and conglomerate rocks are used predominantly throughout cardiff as building materials many of these triassic rocks are purplish especially the coastal marl found near penarth one of the triassic rocks used in cardiff is radyr stone a freestone which as its name suggests is quarried in the radyr district 83 cardiff has also imported some materials for buildings devonian sandstones the old red sandston...
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