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values and legitimizes some knockoffs it is against this political economic and cultural backdrop that the real and virtual consumption and circulation of fashion images objects and discourses are given new meaning cachucho s blog is appealing because its fakeness like the legitimate knockoffs i mentioned in a previous post is embedded in and enacts the new cultural dominant of democratic design the fake sartorialist site is a reminder that the margins as stuart hall bell hooks and so many others have shown us is a productive space it is the site in which new cultural forms new social relations and new identities are imagined and produced against their dominant counterparts to struggle over the meaning of culture thus fake in this new creative economy is not the opposite of authentic but rather the other side of the same coin they mutually constitute each other additionally the fake and the authentic are linked as well by a shared neoliberal logic of the creative economy in which privatized identities individuals are endowed with political economic protections such as intellectual property rights protections the unindividuated masses are denied it is as such that schuman has been shielded from accusations that he s copying bill cunningham who s been doing street fashion photography for more than 40 years and that the ethnic inspired clothing collections of star western designers are aesthetically valued in the fashion industry while designer inspired handbags circulating in underground economies are condemned as fake my fake title is brazenly taken from stuart hall s essay what is the black in black popular culture which inspired key ideas in this post posted by minh ha t pham at 9 47 am labels cheap chic democratization of fashion knockoffs politics of blogging 29 march 2010 linkage veiling and save the muslim girl young adult books about the muslim girl usually feature a veiled adolescent on the cover her face is cropped and concealed usually by her own hands or her veil much of her face is covered including most significantly her mouth images serve as a shorthand vocabulary consider how iconic images a white or black cowboy hat a scientist wearing a white lab coat a princess set up a stock plot the repeated images of veiled girls reinforce familiar mainstream ideas about the confined existence of muslim women and girls this is the muslim girl story we expect to read just about every book in this genre features such an image on its cover these are familiar metaphors for how the muslim girl s life will be presented within the novel the way the girls mouths are covered reinforces existing ideas about their silence and suggests that we in the west conceptualized as free and liberated need to help unveil and give them voice the images also invite ideas about girlhood innocence and vulnerability and invite western readers to protect save and speak for these oppressed girls the veil or burqa which has exclusively functioned as the short hand marker of women s oppression is a much more complicated thing to give you a sense of the range of meaning of the veil consider for instance that in turkey a predominantly muslim country the veil or religious dress is outlawed in public spaces as a means to underline the government s commitments to kemalism a modern secularist stance in response and as a sign of resistance some women especially young university students and those in urban areas consider the veil to be a marker of protest against government regulation of their bodies and the artificial division of modern versus faithful similar acts of resistance are taken up by feminists in egypt who wear the veil as a conscious act of resistance against western imperialism as another example before 9 11 the revolutionary association of women in afghanistan rawa documented the taliban s crimes against girls and women by hiding video cameras under their burqas and transformed the burqa from simply a marker of oppression to a tool of resistance it is problematic to wholly and simplistically equate women s oppression with the burqa just as it would be problematic to claim that once western women stop using make up to cover their faces it will mean an end to domestic violence in the united states and canada özlem sensoy and elizabeth marshall excerpts from save the muslim girl a series on muslimah media watch on muslim girls in contemporary young adult fiction posted by slanderous at 5 14 pm labels girlhood muslim veiling 23 march 2010 vintage politics appadurai fashion and nostalgia the french explorer jacket from vintage style retailer j peterman recently discussed here described thusly remember pierre savorgnan de brazza considered by many to be france s greatest explorer some think it was his unique brand of colonialism but i think the secret to his empire building was this jacket which he often wore to meetings with tribal chieftans historians agree with me the problem of patina which mccracken has recently proposed as a general term to deal with that property of goods in which their age becomes a key index of their high status disguises a deeper dilemma the dilemma of distinguishing wear from tear that is while is many cases wear is a sign of the right sort of duration in the social life of things sheer disrepair or decrepitude is not objects with patina are perpetual reminders of the passage of time as a double edged sword which credentials the right people just as it threatens the way they lived whenever aristocratic lifestyles are threatened patina acquires a double meaning indexing both the special status of its owner and the owner s special relationship to a way of life that is no longer available the latter is what makes patina a truly scarce resource for it always indicates the fact that a way of living is now gone forever yet this very fact is a guarantee against the newly arrived for they can acquire objects with patina but never the subtly embodied anguish of those who can legitimately bemoan the loss of a way of life naturally good imposters may seek to mimic this nostalgic posture as well but here both performances and reviews are a more tightly regulated affair it is harder to pretend to have lost something than it is to actually do so or to claim to have found it here material wear cannot disguise social rupture arjun appadurai 1993 consumption duration and history in streams of cultural capital d palumbo liu and h u gumbrecht eds stanford stanford university press posted by slanderous at 2 10 pm labels arjun appadurai j peterman lifestyle politics nostalgia patina vintage spring it s spring and all i want to do is wear this dress future classics abstract jersey peasant dress i just purchased this at a online sample sale so i don t actually have this gorgeous dress in my mitts yet but i keep looking at the photos and it makes me so happy to know that it s winging its way to me that i had to spread the love the dress is gray made of soft jersey and full of surprising details a more perfect dress it could not be posted by minh ha t pham at 10 24 am labels future classics spring fashion 17 march 2010 creature couture a washington d c woman adopted an orphaned squirrel in the early 1940s dubbed tommy tucker he became her animal companion accompanying her to the grocery store for instance and model for her designs life magazine took photographs and decades later publishes them online for aspiring animal dress designers as a squirrel s guide to fashion rock on sassy squirrel posted by slanderous at 8 38 am 11 march 2010 abercrombie fitch sales in steep decline yay few retailers or labels make me as cranky as abercrombie fitch which is why i don t feel mean spirited at all about being happy over the news that their sales are in a steep decline woo hoo see here and here not only are their stale styles way overpriced but the american lifestyle they stand for promote valorize and export in their advertising and hiring practices detailed in their appearance policy is shamelessly racist ableist islamophobic gender normative and heteronormative see for example a f chief executive mike jeffries obnoxious rationale of the retailer s marketing strategy in every school there are the cool and popular kids and then there are the not so cool kids candidly we go after the cool kids we go after the attractive all american kid with a great attitude and a lot of friends a lot of people don t belong in our clothes and they can t belong are we exclusionary absolutely those companies that are in trouble are trying to target everybody young old fat skinny but then you become totally vanilla you don t alienate anybody but you don t excite anybody either by the way several years ago my intrepid and prolific co blogger the lovely mimi thi nguyen wrote a wonderful article about abercrombie s orientalist kitsch for the website pop politics read it read it mimi s addendum and for more on the appearance policy read dwight mcbride s why i hate abercrombie fitch essays on race and sexuality and the second chapter also called why i hate abercrombie fitch posted by minh ha t pham at 1 57 pm labels appearance policy dumb quotes racism older posts home subscribe to posts atom about us we are two clotheshorse academics who write teach and speak about the politics of fashion and beauty minh ha t pham based in new york city and san francisco shops sample sales with a keen and discerning eye she writes about the ways in which national publics and polities are organized around traditional and new media that are increasingly shaped and limited by neoliberal discourses and policies focusing on the fashion media and the vietnamese american media both her projects are concerned with the complex and contradictory relations of communication technologies consumerism and capitalism mimi thi nguyen based outside of chicago scours thrift and vintage stores with reckless abandon situating her scholarly work within transnational feminist cultural studies she writes about neoliberalism and humanitarianism war and empire a former zinester punk planet columnist and maximumrocknroll shitworker she has also published on punk and queer subcultures find out more about us you can also write to threadbared dot 75 at gmail dot com follow this blog with bloglovin fashion beauty a la allure garconniere bits and bobbins counterfeit chic fashion for writers fashion incubator fashion intelligentsia fashionist fatshionista footpath zeitgeist good morning midnight kingdom of style le coil no good for me nothing elegant nypl fashion archives pour porter selvedge magazine style bubble style rookie the business of fashion the coveted the cut the renegade bean the sunday best thread for thought wardrobe remix what s her tights worn fashion journal worn through culture arts auto straddle b vikki vintage bitch magazine blogs black nerds network counterfeit crochet exactitudes fashion institute of design and merchandising blog fashion projects frock talk costume and cinema hacking couture history is made at night the politics of dancing and musicking kathleen hanna lttr obsessive consumption oh industry one grand home pattern language clothing as communicator exhibit political fashion sketchbook magazine slice harvester the grey sweatsuit revolution the nunu two girls working theory politics berg publishers collective selection color re adjustment difference engines fashioning an ethical industry lipstickeater muslimah media watch order of the gash racialicious research centre for fashion the body material cultures sit down man you re a bloody tragedy sociological images archives 2010 41 april 2 it s moving day what is this fake in the fake sartorialist march 11 february 13 january 15 2009 96 december 8 november 11 october 14 september 6 august 15 july 20 june 10 may 6 march 1 february 4 january 1 2008 24 december 1 october 1 september 2 august 1 july 10 june 9 2007 10 october 1 september 1 august 8 search our closets topics keywords race 28 hijab 15 democratization of fashion 12 politics of blogging 12 linkage 11 academic 10 teaching 10 punk 9 queer 9 muslim 8 blackness 8 labor 8 photography 8 politics 8 theory 8 vintage 7 vogue 6 burqa 6 film 6 gender 6 style blog 6 sartorialist 5 art 5 exhibit 5 fat 5 femininity 5 homelessness 5 sexuality 5 style icon 5 africa 4 minoo moallem 4 nylon 4 cheap chic 4 ethical fashion 4 fashion blogging 4 gender presentation 4 morality 4 thrifting 4 france 3 iran 3 masculinity 3 new york city 3 spring fashion 3 topshop 3 civic body 3 commodification 3 copyright 3 counterfeit 3 dandyism 3 fashion philanthropy 3 hair 3 individualization 3 lifestyle politics 3 menswear 3 model 3 music 3 new digital work order 3 sales 3 standardization 3 teaching outfit 3 textile arts 3 uniform 3 video 3 war 3 asian american designers 2 asianness 2 forever 21 2 future classics 2 orientalism 2 art history 2 beauty 2 beth ditto 2 blog use 2 boots 2 capital 2 class 2 colonialism 2 consumption 2 dignity 2 disability 2 dumb quotes 2 empire 2 handbag 2 health 2 immigration 2 interview 2 knockoffs 2 lipstickeater 2 makeover 2 new technologies 2 obama 2 politics of fashion 2 post 9 11 2 racial sartorial profiling 2 revolution 2 sample sale 2 secondhand 2 style 2 television 2 1990s 1 angela mcrobbie 1 chloe 1 clinton 1 daphne guinness 1 ebony magazine 1 elaine showalter 1 givenchy 1 iraq 1 isabel molina guzman 1 italia 1 los angeles 1 marc jacobs 1 martha webber 1 martin margiela 1 mexico 1 morton 1 ms mentor 1 ngo 1 neocolonialism 1 new york magazine 1 pee wee herman 1 persian carpet 1 phillip lim 1 rupaul s drag race 1 sotomayor 1 south asian 1 the fashion show 1 the sunday best 1 uniqlo 1 venus williams 1 what i wore today 1 yinka shonibare 1 alice bag 1 american apparel 1 appearance policy 1 arjun appadurai 1 athletes 1 black femininity 1 blackface 1 body dysmorphia 1 border 1 branding 1 bras 1 catherine ramirez 1 chritian boltanski 1 classism 1 cleavage 1 compton cookout 1 cowboy boots 1 crafts 1 creative labor 1 crochet 1 cultural economy 1 designer 1 documentary 1 editorial 1 elitism 1 emma tarlo 1 environmental justice 1 eye candy 1 fashion projects 1 feminine narcissism 1 feminism 1 food 1 geek chic 1 ghetto fabulous 1 girlhood 1 global economy 1 goteblud 1 handmade 1 harem pants 1 harvard university 1 high heels 1 hipster 1 humor 1 industrial production 1 iraya robles 1 j peterman 1 james franco 1 joo youn paek 1 journal 1 jumpsuit 1 laundry 1 lawsuit 1 lederhosen 1 liberalism 1 mammy 1 manicure 1 manufacturing 1 meme 1 memorial 1 memory 1 militancy 1 minstrelsy 1 monumenta 1 nail salon 1 nation 1 new wave 1 normativity 1 nostalgia 1 nu prep 1 outfit 1 outlaw 1 outpunk 1 pachuca 1 panties 1 patina 1 pillowig 1 prison 1 publication 1 racism 1 recession 1 recessionista 1 referentiality 1 refugee 1 riot grrrl 1 romper 1 sapeur 1 science 1 sculpture 1 self esteem 1 sentimentality 1 service work 1 shoes 1 shopping 1 sick 1 sketchbook 1 slaves to fashion 1 sneaker 1 sorority 1 speaking...
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