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hostility of the people of speyer towards the bishop it was decided to build a palace in bruchsal for almost a century only the eastern part of the cathedral was secured and used for services under the direction of franz ignaz m neumann the son of renowned baroque architect balthasar neumann the building was restored from 1748 to 1772 the romanesque nave was reconstructed but the westwork rebuilt in the baroque style on its remaining lower section the funds were not sufficient to rebuild the whole cathedral in the style of the time speyer before 1750 revealing damage caused in 1689 in 1792 speyer was again occupied this time by french revolutionary troops and once more the cathedral was pillaged during the napoleonic wars 1803 to 1815 the cathedral was used as a stable and storage facility for fodder and other material in 1806 the french planned to tear the building down and use it as a quarry but this was solely prevented by the bishop of mainz joseph ludwig colmar after napoleon s victories over the prussian and russian armies in the battles of grossgörschen and lützen in 1813 around 4 000 wounded soldiers came to speyer after the battle of leipzig there were even more and the cathedral was needed as an army hospital 25 as a result of the congress of vienna 1815 speyer and the palatinate passed to bavaria at the behest of king ludwig i of bavaria johann von schraudolph and joseph schwarzmann decorated the interior walls of the cathedral with nazarene style frescoes 1846 1853 in 1854 to 1858 ludwig s successor king maximilian ii had the baroque westwork replaced by a neo romanesque one with the two tall towers and the octagonal dome resembling those that were lost thus restoring the cathedral s overall romanesque appearance the roofs were lowered and covered with copper only the gothic sacristy kept its slate roof eduard rottmanner was organist at the church from 1839 to 1843 on 24 september 1861 the then prince of wales of the united kingdom prince albert edward who would later become king edward vii first met his wife princess alexandra of denmark later queen alexandra of britain at the speyer cathedral in designing the façade of the westwork heinrich hübsch an architect of early historicism created a neo romanesque design which drew on features of the original westwork and those of several other romanesque buildings scaling the windows differently and introducing a gable on the facade a row of statues over the main portal and polychrome stonework in sandstone yellow and rust these restorations coincided with the development of romanticism and german nationalism during which many buildings were restored in the romanesque and gothic style of the holy roman empire speyer cathedral was then elevated to the level of a national monument speyer cathedral from the south the interior decorations and the new westwork were considered a major feat in the 19th century ludwig i was of the opinion that nothing greater had been created than these paintings yet by the start of the 20th century the mood had changed in 1916 georg dehio a german art historian was convinced that among all the misfortunes to befall the cathedral the alterations of the 19th century were not the smallest 26 the graves of the emperors and kings were originally placed in the central aisle in front of the altar in the course of the centuries knowledge of the exact location was lost in a big excavation campaign in 1900 the graves were discovered and opened and the identity of the rulers were established some of the contents e g clothing can be seen at the historical museum of the palatinate near the cathedral the restored coffins were relocated into a newly constructed crypt open to the public under the main altar in 1906 the restoration of the cathedral beginning in 1957 was directed towards both securing the structure and recreating the original atmosphere of the interior 17 some of the plaster and 19th century paintings from the walls was removed only the cycle of 24 scenes from the life of the virgin between the windows of the nave have been preserved gables which had been removed from the transept and choir during the baroque era were replaced using etchings and examples in related buildings changes in the crossing were also undone but enforcements from the baroque were left in place for structural reasons additionally the baroque style curved roof on the eastern dome remained 25 the speyer fragment of the codex argenteus edit the final leaf of the important codex argenteus was discovered in the cathedral in october 1970 the codex contains a translation of new testament gospels into the gothic language during the renovation of the saint afra chapel of the cathedral the leaf was found in a box with non authentic relics that was hidden in 1859 by immuring it 27 the leaf with text on both sides contains the final verses of the gospel of mark 16 12 20 28 present condition edit east front of speyer cathedral the eastern apsidal end showing the encircling gallery speyer cathedral has maintained the overall form and dimensions of the 11th century structure and despite substantial losses to the original fabric and successive restorations presents a complete and unified romanesque building the design broadly follows the plan that was established at st michael s church in hildesheim and set the standard that was to be generally adopted in the rhineland 2 this comprised a high vaulted nave with aisles with a domed crossing towards at the east which terminated in an apsidal chancel the horizontal orientation already points to the development of the gothic architecture the western end terminates in an elaborate structure known as a westwerk including the main portal a feature typical of many romanesque churches other german romanesque churches such as worms cathedral have an apse at both ends externally the silhouette of the building is balanced by two pairs of tall towers which frame the nave at the western end and the chancel to the east and form a sculptural mass with the dome at each end creating an equilibrium between the eastern and western blocks 2 the majority of its features are still the same exterior but the interior has undergone many renovations supporting the foundation but changing the interior greatly the exterior appearance of the cathedral is unified by the regularity of the size of its openings speyer has the earliest example in germany of a colonnaded dwarf gallery that goes around the entire building just below the roofline the same type of gallery also adorns the eastern and western domes the openings in the gallery match the size of the paired windows in the towers the domes are both octagonal the roof of the eastern one being slightly ovoid the towers are surmounted by rhenish helm spires the nave towers and domes are all roofed with copper which has weathered to pale green in contrast to the pinkish red of the building stone and the polychrome of the westwerk internally the nave is of two open stages with simple semi circular romanesque openings the arcade has piers of a simple form each with a wide attached shaft the alternate shafts carrying a stone arch of the high vault the square bays thus formed are groin vaulted and plastered although most of the plasterwork of the 19th century has been removed from wall surfaces the wide expanse of masonry between the arcade and the clerestory contains a series of colourful murals depicting the life of the virgin the cathedral has recently undergone fundamental restorations which cost around 26 million euros in addition the frescos by johann schraudolph which were removed in the 1950s were restored and are now displayed in the kaisersaal of the cathedral stages of construction and reconstruction 1061 1106 1689 1756 1778 1858 world heritage site edit in april 1981 speyer cathedral was added to the unesco world heritage list of culturally important sites the international council on monuments and sites icomos justified the inclusion the cathedral of speyer with those of worms and mayence mainz is a major monument of romanesque art in the german empire it is by virtue of its proportions the largest and the most important by virtue of the history to which it is linked the salic emperors made it their place of burial 2 14 icomos also cites the building as important in demonstrating the evolution in attitudes towards restoration since the 17th century both in germany and the world 2 dimensions edit total length 134 m from the steps at the entrance to the exterior wall of the east apse external width of the nave with aisles 37 62 m from exterior wall to exterior wall internal width of the nave 14 m height of the nave at the vertex of the vaults 33 m height of the eastern spires 71 20 m height of the western spires 65 60 m crypt length east west 35 m north south 46 m height between 6 2 m and 6 5 m features edit crypt edit layout of the crypt of speyer cathedral the crypt of speyer cathedral over the centuries crypts developed from tiny chambers into large semi subterranean and very articulated hall crypts which became standard forms in italy and germany sometimes extending under the transepts as well as the chancel the monumental crypt of speyer cathedral consecrated in 1041 is the largest romanesque columned hall crypt in europe with an area of 850 m 2 9 149 sq ft and a height of approx 7 m forty two groin vaults are supported on twenty cylindrical columns with simple cushion capitals the sandstone blocks alternate in colour between yellow and rust a typical design of the salian and staufer era and providing the context of the colour scheme of the 19th century facade the architectural clarity is quite exceptional a result of the precise execution of the base moldings and the cushion capitals together with the emphatic system of transverse arches 29 see detail below chapels edit double chapel of saint emmeram and saint catherine upper level with opening to the bottom on the southern side of the cathedral is the double chapel doppelkapelle of saint emmeram saint martin and saint catherine the concept of the double chapel was well established by the end of the 11th century dating back to the time of charlemagne and commonly used in imperial and episcopal chapels 30 construction of the one in speyer already started around 1050 saint catherine s chapel was built on occasion of the birthday of henry iii s daughter on 25 november named after saint catherine of alexandria one of the fourteen holy helpers in 1961 the chapel was restored to its original state as a double chapel the two chapels on top of each other are connected through an opening in the centre today saint emmeram is a baptistery on the northern side of the cathedral is the chapel of saint afra named after an early christian martyr henry iv had the chapel built in her honour because he was born on her commemoration day saint afra s remains had been discovered in augsburg around 1064 henry iv was buried in the unconsecrated chapel from 1106 to 1111 when pope paschalis ii revoked the ban which had been in effect since 1088 during restoration works in 1971 a page of parchment was found in the chapel which is part of a wulfila bible written around 500 today the saint afra chapel is a tabernacle initially there were five other chapels on the northern side of the cathedral saint paul saint agnes saint bernard saint henry and saint mary saint mary s chapel had been added on the northern side of the cathedral by bishop matthias von rammung in 1475 their ruins were already removed in the 18th century 25 bells edit the cathedral s peal is composed of nine bells of which the larger four were cast in 1822 by peter lindemann zweibrücken and the five smaller ones in 1963 by friedrich wilhelm schilling heidelberg they are all contained in the cathedral belfry located in the western dome in germany the bells are always numbered from largest to smallest bell 1 is always the tenor or bourdon the four largest bells also serve as clock bells bells 4 and 3 chime alternately every quarter hour while bells strike 2 and 1 in succession each the number of a full hour no name nominal weight kg diameter cm 1 maximilianus josephus emperor bell g 0 5350 208 2 friderica wilhelmina carolina b 0 2600 175 3 ludovicus carolus d 1 1650 147 4 matthaeus de chandelle f 1 600 115 5 saint mary s bell a 1 601 95 5 6 saint joseph s bell b 1 494 90 3 7 saint anne s bell d 2 440 83 3 8 saint pirmin s bell e 2 312 75 9 otto f 2 217 66 7 dimensions edit total length 134 m from the steps at the entrance to the exterior wall of the east apse external width of the nave with aisles 37 62 m from exterior wall to exterior wall internal width of the nave 14 m height of the nave at the vertex of the vaults 33 m height of the eastern spires 71 20 m height of the western spires 65 60 m crypt length east west 35 m north south 46 m height between 6 2 m and 6 5 m surroundings edit heidentürmchen originally the cathedral was surrounded by numerous buildings to the south it was adjoined by a cloister with a mount of olives sculptural group in its centre on the northern side was the palatial bishop s residence other buildings nearby for example were the chapter house rectory archives st nikolaus chapel town fortifications etc most of the buildings disappeared after the french revolution the outline of the former cloister can be seen as pavement the sculpture of the mount of olives was destroyed in the great fire of 1689 and left in ruins after the rubble of the cloister was removed in 1820 in order to create some open space later it was fitted with a roof to prevent further deterioration the sculptures were supplemented by a local sculptor gottfried renn inside the mount is a chapel dedicated to the archangel michael in the square at the western end of the cathedral is a large bowl known as domnapf lit cathedral bowl it formerly marked the boundary between the episcopal and municipal territories each new bishop on his election had to fill the bowl with wine while the burghers emptied it to his health 31 heidentürmchen heath tower edit the heidentürmchen is a remainder of the medieval town fortifications a tower and a section of the wall situated a little to the east of the cathedral it once stood right by the rhine at the very edge of the plateau adjoined by some marshy area which used to be called heath hall of antiques antikenhalle edit the hall was built to the north of the cathedral to house the roman findings in the cathedral area it was erected in the neo classical style and turned out to be too small for the intended purpose later some cannons captured in the franco prussian war of 1870 71 were displayed today it is a memorial for the fallen of the two world wars features of speyer cathedral and its surroundings polychrome arches in the crypt the mount of olives domnapf antikenhalle dwarf gallery german postage stamps featuring speyer cathedral edit postal stamp of 1924 citation 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