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the longest river in new guinea the winding muddy sluggish river has 500 km of navigable length ramu is a 650 km long river its lower section is navigable but its upper flow is high falling fast flowing the energy of the river is used by a power plant near the city of kainantu on the south side notable rivers include the pulau digul fly kikori and purari the digul river originates from the star mountains which rise to an altitude of 4 700 m and is the largest river in the western part of the island the coastal plain is bordered by a swamp hundreds of kilometres wide digul is the main transport route to the fertile hills and mountains within the island the fly river is born near the eastern branches of the digul it is named after one of the ships of the english royal fleet which first sailed into the mouth of the river in 1845 the total length of the river is 1 050 km smaller boats can sail 900 km on the river the estuary section which decomposes into islands is 70 km wide the tide of the sea can have an effect of up to 300 kilometres strickland a tributary of the fly reaches the papuan plain through wild gorges fly and strickland together form the largest river in new guinea the many rivers flowing into the gulf of papua form a single delta complex the rivers of new guinea are notorious for their amount of water due to the annual rainfall of 2 000 10 000 mm it has been estimated that the island s rivers carry about 1 500 km 3 a 48 000 m 3 s of water into the sea with fly alone carrying more water 238 km 3 a 7 500 m 3 s than all the rivers in australia combined 17 relation to surroundings edit highlands of papua new guinea the island of new guinea lies to the east of the malay archipelago with which it is sometimes included as part of a greater indo australian archipelago 18 geologically it is a part of the same tectonic plate as australia when world sea levels were low the two shared shorelines which now lie 100 to 140 metres below sea level 19 and combined with lands now inundated into the tectonic continent of sahul 20 21 also known as greater australia 22 the two landmasses became separated when the area now known as the torres strait flooded after the end of the last glacial period anthropologically new guinea is considered part of melanesia 23 new guinea is differentiated from its drier flatter 24 and less fertile 25 26 southern counterpart australia by its much higher rainfall and its active volcanic geology yet the two land masses share a similar animal fauna with marsupials including wallabies and possums and the egg laying monotreme the echidna other than bats and some two dozen indigenous rodent genera 27 there are no pre human indigenous placental mammals pigs several additional species of rats and the ancestor of the new guinea singing dog were introduced with human colonization prior to the 1970s archaeologists called the single pleistocene landmass by the name australasia 20 although this word is most often used for a wider region that includes lands such as new zealand which are not on the same continental shelf in the early 1970s they introduced the term greater australia for the pleistocene continent 20 then at a 1975 conference and consequent publication 21 they extended the name sahul from its previous use for just the sahul shelf to cover the continent 20 political divisions edit political divisions of new guinea 2006 southwest papua province west papua province papua province central papua province highland papua province south papua province the island of new guinea is divided politically into roughly equal halves across a north south line the western portion of the island located west of 141 e longitude except for a small section of territory to the east of the fly river which belongs to papua new guinea was formerly a dutch colony part of the dutch east indies after the west new guinea dispute it is now six indonesian provinces west papua with manokwari as its capital papua with the city of jayapura as its capital highland papua with jayawijaya regency as its capital central papua with nabire regency as its capital south papua with merauke regency as its capital southwest papua with sorong as its capital the eastern part forms the mainland of papua new guinea which has been an independent country since 1975 it was formerly the territory of papua and new guinea governed by australia consisting of the trust territory of new guinea northeastern quarter formerly german new guinea and the territory of papua southeastern quarter three of papua new guinea s four regions are parts of new guinea island southern consisting of western gulf central oro northern and milne bay provinces highlands consisting of southern highlands hela province jiwaka province enga province western highlands simbu and eastern highlands provinces momase consisting of morobe madang east sepik and sandaun west sepik provinces demographics edit 10 largest cities and towns in new guinea papua by population edit port moresby the most populous city on the island of new guinea papua provincial capital national capital rank city population country province 1 port moresby 756 754 papua new guinea ncd 2 jayapura 414 862 indonesia papua 3 sorong 294 978 indonesia southwest papua 4 lae 203 056 papua new guinea morobe 5 timika 142 909 indonesia central papua 6 manokwari 107 325 indonesia west papua 7 merauke 102 351 indonesia south papua 8 nabire 99 848 indonesia central papua 9 sentani 71 174 indonesia papua 10 wamena 66 080 indonesia highland papua people edit see also people of new guinea yali tribesman in the baliem valley the current population of the island of new guinea is about fifteen million archaeological evidence indicates that humans may have inhabited the island continuously since 50 000 bce 28 29 and first settlement possibly dating back to 60 000 years ago has been proposed the island is presently populated by almost a thousand different tribal groups and a near equivalent number of separate languages which makes new guinea the most linguistically diverse area in the world ethnologue s 14th edition lists 826 languages of papua new guinea and 257 languages of western new guinea total 1073 languages with 12 languages overlapping clarification needed they can be divided into two groups the austronesian languages and all the others placed in the catch all category of papuan languages most of which are unrelated 30 the separation is not merely linguistic warfare among societies was a factor in the evolution of the men s house separate housing for groups of adult men away from the single family houses of women and children citation needed pig based trade between groups and pig based feasts form a common tradition with the other peoples of southeast asia and oceania most papuan societies practice agriculture supplemented by hunting and gathering yali mabel kurulu village war chief at baliem valley current evidence indicates that the papuans who constitute the majority of the island s peoples are descended from the earliest human inhabitants of new guinea these original inhabitants first arrived in new guinea during the last glacial period when the island was connected to the australian continent via a land bridge forming the landmass of sahul these peoples had made the shortened sea crossing from the islands of wallacea and sundaland the present malay archipelago by at least 40 000 years ago korowai tribesman the ancestral austronesian peoples are believed to have arrived considerably later approximately 3 500 years ago as part of a gradual seafaring migration from southeast asia possibly originating in taiwan austronesian speaking peoples colonized many of the offshore islands to the north and east of new guinea such as new ireland and new britain with settlements also on the coastal fringes of the main island in places human habitation of new guinea over tens of thousands of years has led to a great deal of diversity which was further increased by the later arrival of the austronesians and the more recent history of european and asian settlement through events like transmigration in addition to christianity and traditional belief systems islamic communities in parts of new guinea particularly in areas such as fakfak and sorong have been noted for encouraging interfaith cooperation and maintaining traditions of peace and tolerance 31 large areas of new guinea are yet to be explored by scientists and anthropologists the indonesian province of west papua is home to an estimated 44 uncontacted tribal groups 32 biodiversity and ecology edit main article fauna of new guinea with some 786 000 km 2 of tropical land less than one half of one percent 0 5 of the earth s surface new guinea has an immense biodiversity containing between 5 and 10 percent of the total species on the planet this percentage is about the same amount as that found in the united states or australia a high percentage of new guinea s species are endemic and thousands are still unknown to science probably well over 200 000 species of insect between 11 000 and 20 000 plant species and over 650 resident bird species most of these species are shared at least in their origin with the continent of australia which was until fairly recent geological times part of the same landmass see australia new guinea for an overview the island is so large that it is considered nearly a continent in terms of its biological distinctiveness in the period from 1998 to 2008 conservationists identified 1 060 new species in new guinea including 218 plants 43 reptiles 12 mammals 580 invertebrates 134 amphibians 2 birds and 71 fish 33 between 2011 and 2017 researchers described 465 previously undocumented plant species in new guinea 34 as of 2019 the indonesian portion of new guinea and the maluku islands is estimated to have 9 518 species of vascular plants of which 4 380 are endemic in 2020 an international study conducted by a team of 99 experts cataloged 13 634 species representing 1 742 genera and 264 families of vascular plants for new guinea and its associated islands aru islands bismarck archipelago d entrecasteaux islands louisiade archipelago making it the world s most floristically diverse island surpassing madagascar 11 488 borneo 11 165 java 4 598 and the philippines 9 432 35 the raggiana bird of paradise is native to new guinea the floristic region of malesia biogeographically new guinea is part of australasia rather than the indomalayan realm although new guinea s flora has many more affinities with asia than its fauna which is overwhelmingly australian botanically new guinea is considered part of malesia a floristic region that extends from the malay peninsula across indonesia to new guinea and the east melanesian islands the flora of new guinea is a mixture of many tropical rainforest species with origins in asia together with typically australasian flora typical southern hemisphere flora include the conifers podocarpus and the rainforest emergents araucaria and agathis as well as tree ferns and several species of eucalyptus new guinea has 284 species and six orders of mammals monotremes three orders of marsupials rodents and bats 195 of the mammal species 69 are endemic new guinea has 578 species of breeding birds of which 324 species are endemic the island s frogs are one of the most poorly known vertebrate groups totalling 282 species but this number is expected to double or even triple when all species have been documented new guinea has a rich diversity of coral life and 1 200 species of fish have been found also about 600 species of reef building coral the latter equal to 75 percent of the world s known total the entire coral area covers 18 million hectares off a peninsula in northwest new guinea new guinea crocodile as of 2020 the western portion of new guinea papua and west papua accounts for 54 of the island s primary forest and about 51 of the island s total tree cover according to satellite data 36 ecoregions edit main article ecoregions of new guinea terrestrial edit according to the wwf new guinea can be divided into twelve terrestrial ecoregions 37 central range montane rain forests central range sub alpine grasslands huon peninsula montane rain forests new guinea mangroves northern new guinea lowland rain and freshwater swamp forests northern new guinea montane rain forests southeastern papuan rain forests southern new guinea freshwater swamp forests southern new guinea lowland rain forests trans fly savanna and grasslands vogelkop montane rain forests vogelkop aru lowland rain forests coral reefs in papua new guinea freshwater edit the wwf and nature conservancy divide new guinea into five freshwater ecoregions 38 vogelkop bomberai new guinea north coast new guinea central mountains southwest new guinea trans fly lowland papuan peninsula marine edit the wwf and nature conservancy identify several marine ecoregions in the seas bordering new guinea 39 papua arafura sea bismarck sea solomon sea southeast papua new guinea gulf of papua history edit see also history of papua new guinea and history of western new guinea early history edit the continent of sahul before the rising ocean sundered australia and new guinea after the last ice age archaeological evidence indicates that humans arrived on new guinea perhaps 60 000 years ago although this is under debate 40 41 they came probably by sea from southeast asia during the last glacial period when the sea was lower and distances between islands shorter the first inhabitants from whom the papuan people are probably descended adapted to the range of ecologies and in time developed one of the earliest known agricultures remains of this agricultural system in the form of ancient irrigation systems in the highlands of papua new guinea are being studied by archaeologists research indicates that the highlands were an early and independent center of agriculture with evidence of irrigation going back at least 10 000 years 42 sugarcane was cultivated in new guinea around 6000 bce 43 the gardens of the new guinea highlands are ancient intensive permacultures adapted to high population densities very high rainfalls as high as 10 000 mm per year 400 in yr earthquakes hilly land and occasional frost complex mulches crop rotations and tillages are used in rotation on terraces with complex irrigation systems western agronomists still do not understand all of the practices and it has been noted that native gardeners are as or even more successful than most scientific farmers in raising certain crops 44 there is evidence that new guinea gardeners invented crop rotation well before western europeans 45 a unique feature of new guinea permaculture is the silviculture of casuarina oligodon a tall sturdy native ironwood tree suited to use for timber and fuel with root nodules that fix nitrogen pollen studies show that it was adopted during an ancient period of extreme deforestation citation needed in more recent millennia another wave...
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