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d and silt left by the proglacial lake great falls or by moraines or gravel covered former lake basins left by the wisconsin glaciation 85 000 to 11 000 years ago 123 farther east areas such as makoshika state park near glendive and medicine rocks state park near ekalaka contain some of the most scenic badlands regions in the state 124 the hell creek formation in northeast montana is a major source of dinosaur fossils 125 paleontologist jack horner of the museum of the rockies in bozeman brought this formation to the world s attention with several major finds 126 rivers lakes and reservoirs see also list of rivers of montana and list of lakes in montana east face of mount gould above grinnell lake montana has thousands of named rivers and creeks 127 450 miles 720 km of which are known for blue ribbon trout fishing 128 129 montana s water resources provide for recreation hydropower crop and forage irrigation mining and water for human consumption montana is one of few geographic areas in the world whose rivers form parts of three major watersheds i e where two continental divides intersect its rivers feed the pacific ocean the gulf of mexico and hudson bay the watersheds divide at triple divide peak in glacier national park 130 if hudson bay is considered part of the arctic ocean triple divide peak is the only place on earth with drainage to three different oceans pacific ocean drainage basin missouri breaks region in central montana all waters in montana west of the divide flow into the columbia river the clark fork of the columbia not to be confused with the clarks fork of the yellowstone river rises near butte 131 and flows northwest to missoula where it is joined by the blackfoot river and bitterroot river 132 farther downstream it is joined by the flathead river before entering idaho near lake pend oreille 98 133 the pend oreille river forms the outflow of lake pend oreille the pend oreille river joined the columbia river which flows to the pacific ocean making the 579 mile 932 km long clark fork pend oreille considered a single river system the longest river in the rocky mountains 134 the clark fork discharges the greatest volume of water of any river exiting the state 135 the kootenai river in northwest montana is another major tributary of the columbia 136 gulf of mexico drainage basin east of the divide the missouri river which is formed by the confluence of the jefferson madison and gallatin rivers near three forks 137 flows due north through the west central part of the state to great falls 138 from this point it then flows generally east through fairly flat agricultural land and the missouri breaks to fort peck reservoir 139 the stretch of river between fort benton and the fred robinson bridge at the western boundary of fort peck reservoir was designated a national wild and scenic river in 1976 139 the missouri enters north dakota near fort union 140 having drained more than half the land area of montana 82 000 square miles 210 000 km 2 138 nearly one third of the missouri river in montana lies behind 10 dams toston canyon ferry hauser holter black eagle rainbow cochrane ryan morony and fort peck 141 other major montana tributaries of the missouri include the smith 142 milk 143 marias 144 judith 145 and musselshell rivers 146 montana also claims the disputed title of possessing the world s shortest river the roe river just outside great falls 147 through the missouri these rivers ultimately join the mississippi river and flow into the gulf of mexico 148 hell roaring creek begins in southern montana and when combined with the red rock beaverhead jefferson missouri and mississippi river is the longest river in north america and the fourth longest river in the world the yellowstone river rises on the continental divide near younts peak in wyoming s teton wilderness 149 it flows north through yellowstone national park enters montana near gardiner and passes through the paradise valley to livingston 150 it then flows northeasterly 150 across the state through billings miles city glendive and sidney 151 the yellowstone joins the missouri in north dakota just east of fort union 152 it is the longest undammed free flowing river in the contiguous united states 153 154 and drains about a quarter of montana 36 000 square miles 93 000 km 2 138 major tributaries of the yellowstone include the boulder 155 stillwater 156 clarks fork 157 bighorn 158 tongue 159 and powder rivers 160 hudson bay drainage basin the northern divide turns east in montana at triple divide peak causing the waterton belly and saint mary rivers to flow north into alberta there they join the saskatchewan river which ultimately empties into hudson bay 99 lakes and reservoirs whitefish lake in montana montana has some 3 000 named lakes and reservoirs including flathead lake the largest natural freshwater lake in the western united states other major lakes include whitefish lake in the flathead valley and lake mcdonald and st mary lake in glacier national park the largest reservoir in the state is fort peck reservoir on the missouri river which is contained by the second largest earthen dam and largest hydraulically filled dam in the world 161 other major reservoirs include hungry horse on the flathead river lake koocanusa on the kootenai river lake elwell on the marias river clark canyon on the beaverhead river yellowtail on the bighorn river canyon ferry hauser holter rainbow and black eagle on the missouri river flora and fauna see also list of monocotyledons of montana list of coniferous plants of montana list of lichens of montana list of amphibians and reptiles of montana list of birds of montana fish of montana and mammals of montana 100 pound native montana wolf taken in 1928 vegetation of the state includes lodgepole pine ponderosa pine douglas fir larch spruce aspen birch red cedar hemlock ash alder rocky mountain maple and cottonwood trees forests cover about 25 of the state flowers native to montana include asters bitterroots daisies lupins poppies primroses columbine lilies orchids and dryads several species of sagebrush and cactus and many species of grasses are common many species of mushrooms and lichens 162 are also found in the state montana is home to diverse fauna including 14 amphibian 163 90 fish 164 117 mammal 165 20 reptile 166 and 427 bird 167 species additionally more than 10 000 invertebrate species are present including 180 mollusks and 30 crustaceans montana has the largest grizzly bear population in the lower 48 states 168 montana hosts five federally endangered species black footed ferret whooping crane least tern pallid sturgeon and white sturgeon and seven threatened species including the grizzly bear canadian lynx and bull trout 169 a since re introduction the gray wolf population has stabilized at about 900 animals and they have been delisted as endangered 170 the montana department of fish wildlife and parks manages fishing and hunting seasons for at least 17 species of game fish including seven species of trout walleye and smallmouth bass 171 and at least 29 species of game birds and animals including ring neck pheasant grey partridge elk pronghorn antelope mule deer whitetail deer gray wolf american bison and bighorn sheep 172 protected lands see also list of montana state parks pompeys pillar national monument montana contains glacier national park the crown of the continent and parts of yellowstone national park including three of the park s five entrances other federally recognized sites include the little bighorn national monument bighorn canyon national recreation area and big hole national battlefield the cskt bison range is managed by the confederated salish and kootenai tribes and the american prairie is owned and operated by a nonprofit organization federal and state agencies administer approximately 31 300 000 acres 127 000 km 2 or 35 percent of montana s land the u s department of agriculture forest service administers 16 800 000 acres 68 000 km 2 of forest land in ten national forests there are approximately 3 300 000 acres 13 000 km 2 of wilderness in 12 separate wilderness areas that are part of the national wilderness preservation system established by the wilderness act of 1964 the u s department of the interior bureau of land management controls 8 100 000 acres 33 000 km 2 of federal land the u s department of the interior fish and wildlife service administers 110 000 acres 450 km 2 of 1 1 million acres of national wildlife refuges and waterfowl production areas in montana the u s department of the interior bureau of reclamation administers approximately 300 000 acres 1 200 km 2 of land and water surface in the state the montana department of fish wildlife and parks operate approximately 275 265 acres 1 113 96 km 2 of state parks and access points on the state s rivers and lakes the montana department of natural resources and conservation manages 5 200 000 acres 21 000 km 2 of school trust land ceded by the federal government under the land ordinance of 1785 to the state in 1889 when montana was granted statehood these lands are managed by the state for the benefit of public schools and institutions in the state 173 quake lake was created by a landslide during the 1959 hebgen lake earthquake areas managed by the national park service include 174 big hole national battlefield near wisdom bighorn canyon national recreation area near fort smith glacier national park grant kohrs ranch national historic site at deer lodge lewis and clark national historic trail little bighorn battlefield national monument near crow agency nez perce national historical park yellowstone national park climate temperature and precipitation for montana s capital city helena köppen climate types of montana using 1991 2020 climate normals montana is a large state with considerable variation in geography topography and elevation and the climate is equally varied the state spans from below the 45th parallel the line equidistant between the equator and north pole to the 49th parallel and elevations range from under 2 000 feet 610 m to nearly 13 000 feet 4 000 m above sea level the western half is mountainous interrupted by numerous large valleys eastern montana comprises plains and badlands broken by hills and isolated mountain ranges and has a semi arid continental climate köppen climate classification bsk the continental divide has a considerable effect on the climate as it restricts the flow of warmer air from the pacific from moving east and drier continental air from moving west the area west of the divide has a modified northern pacific coast climate with milder winters cooler summers less wind and a longer growing season 175 low clouds and fog often form in the valleys west of the divide in winter but this is rarely seen in the east 176 average daytime temperatures vary from 28 f or 2 2 c in january to 84 5 f or 29 2 c in july 177 verification needed the variation in geography leads to great variation in temperature the highest observed summer temperature was 117 f or 47 2 c at glendive on july 20 1893 and medicine lake on july 5 1937 throughout the state summer nights are generally cool and pleasant extreme hot weather is less common above 4 000 feet or 1 200 meters 175 snowfall has been recorded in all months of the year in the more mountainous areas of central and western montana though it is rare in july and august 175 the coldest temperature on record for montana is also the coldest temperature for the contiguous united states on january 20 1954 70 f or 56 7 c was recorded at a gold mining camp near rogers pass temperatures vary greatly on cold nights and helena 40 miles 64 km to the southeast had a low of only 36 f or 37 8 c on the same date and an all time record low of 42 f or 41 1 c 175 winter cold spells are usually the result of cold continental air coming south from canada the front is often well defined causing a large temperature drop in a 24 hour period conversely air flow from the southwest results in chinooks these steady 25 50 mph 40 80 km h or more winds can suddenly warm parts of montana especially areas just to the east of the mountains where temperatures sometimes rise up to 50 60 f 10 0 15 6 c for 10 days or longer 175 178 loma is the site of the most extreme recorded temperature change in a 24 hour period in the united states on january 15 1972 a chinook wind blew in and the temperature rose from 54 to 49 f 47 8 to 9 4 c a 103 f 57 2 c degree difference 179 clark fork river missoula in autumn average annual precipitation is 15 inches 380 mm but great variations are seen the mountain ranges block the moist pacific air holding moisture in the western valleys and creating rain shadows to the east heron in the west receives the most precipitation 34 70 inches 881 mm on the eastern leeward side of a mountain range the valleys are much drier lonepine averages 11 45 inches 291 mm and deer lodge 11 00 inches 279 mm of precipitation the mountains can receive over 100 inches 2 500 mm for example the grinnell glacier in glacier national park gets 105 inches 2 700 mm 176 an area southwest of belfry averaged only 6 59 inches 167 mm over a 16 year period most of the larger cities get 30 to 50 inches or 0 76 to 1 27 meters of snow each year mountain ranges can accumulate 300 inches or 7 62 meters of snow during a winter heavy snowstorms may occur from september through may though most snow falls from november to march 175 the climate has become warmer in montana with the average temperature rising almost 2 5 f 1 3 c since 1900 at a rate higher than the continental u s average and continues to do so 180 the glaciers in glacier national park have receded and are predicted to melt away completely in a few decades 181 many montana cities set heat records during july 2007 the hottest month ever recorded in montana 182 183 winters are warmer too and have fewer cold spells previously these cold spells had killed off bark beetles but these are now attacking the forests of western montana 184 185 the warmer winters in the region have allowed various species to expand their ranges and proliferate 186 the combination of warmer weather attack by beetles and mismanagement has led to a substantial increase in the severity of forest fires in montana 182 185 according to a study done for the u s environmental protection agency by the harvard school of engineering and applied science parts of montana will experience a 200 increase in area burned by wildfires and an 80 increase in related air pollution 187 188 the table below lists average temperatures for the warmest and coldest month for montana s seven largest cities the coldest month varies between december and january depending on location although figures are similar throughout average daily maximum and minimum temperatures for selected cities in montana 189 location july f coldest month f july c coldest month c billings 90 59 32 14 32 15 4 9 missoula 88 51 30 11 31 16 ...
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