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nteraction always make me smile my resolution for 2013 is to write more often scent of the day samples single fragrances scented products the occasional rant to put more thoughts to words i ve abandoned my original idea more on that in a later post and decided instead to talk about sucre d ebene de parfum by huitieme art as i eagerly sniffed through my latest luckyscent samples sucre d ebene immediately stood out from the lot at very first whiff i was immediately transported back to a shop that i used to frequent during my university days it sold all sorts of incenses fragrant oils accessories and clothing that can probably be best described as colourful potato sacks i guess you could call it a hippie shop but it was there that i learnt to differentiate between petitgrain orange blossom cedarwood frankincense and countless other fragrant oils sucre d ebene strangely enough conjures up an almost exact replica of the entire shop s scent and for that reason alone already holds a special place in my heart as a fragrance though sucre d ebene is certainly odd possibly because i associate it more with an actual place rather than something i d like to wear it s a sweet benzoin which is normally right up my alley but there are certainly other spices lurking that adds to its quirky character more sprays result in a scent not too far off from fresh s brown sugar albeit a darker cousin it certainly scores points for being different from other incense themed fragrances that i ve encountered the packaging of the scent looks handsome too and unusual definitely highly covetable if anyone has seen it in person i d definitely be curious to hear your thoughts on its looks and feel image taken from http uk huitiemeartparfums com creations_2_sucre d ebene__parfum sucre ebene html estee lauder azuree soleil eau fraiche skinscent sweet surrender 28 wednesday nov 2012 posted by jenson in estee lauder perfume perfume review 2 comments tags citrus hot weather humid summer tom ford tropical white florals if there s anything i detest more than hot weather is humidity unfortunately sydney has been experiencing them both in abundance lately i lather myself in sunscreen before heading out and inevitably search out for fragrances that play nice with my trusty sunscreen rather than vice versa typical hot weather friendly citrus fragrances tend to at best get engulfed by the metallicness of my sunscreen and at worst turn into something not entirely too far off from stale lemons so it s during weather like this that i reach out to estee lauder azuree soleil eau fraiche skinscent a fragrance released as part of a limited 19 piece makeup collection by tom ford for estee lauder in 2007 i haven t checked out other pieces in the range including the much talked about body oil and had to practically pry the last remaining bottle off the estee lauder salesperson in 2008 before it disappeared off the shelves permanently i so often pair azuree soleil with sunscreen that it seems like a new scent to me now reviewing it on its own azuree soleil smells mainly of creamy coconuts and white florals gardenia jasmine and magnolia combine to evoke a lushness set against muted citrus notes caramel and soft wood notes surround the tropical heart but never quite permeates it worn on its own the creamy floral notes remain strong and lasts several hours worn over sunscreen the citrus notes fade away more quickly but the remaining scent seems to last even longer the blue of azuree soleil s bottle seems to allude to the beach tropical does spring to mind perhaps because of the creamy coconut note but the beach perhaps less so for me i don t detect the salt water note that many others seem to detect yet i often pair it with sunscreen so perhaps there s something in that theory incidentally the turquoise blue of the bottle also makes me think of it as a precedent to tom ford s other sea coastal inspired scent neroli portofino though of course the latter is a completely different scent housed in an even more luxurious dark turquoise bottle with a price tag to match i like neroli portofino but not as much as azuree soleil there s just something in it that makes me actually almost want to lose myself in the heat and humidity of sydney s summer almost editions de parfums frederic malle en passant the soliflore florist 21 wednesday nov 2012 posted by jenson in beauty editions de parfums frederic malle perfume perfume review 5 comments tags damp en passant grass lilac olivia giacobetti amongst all my perfumes editions de parfums frederic malle en passant reminds me the most of a visit to the florist where apart from the obvious beauty of so many different flowers i enjoy being engulfed by the heady mix of blooms freshly cut stems leaves and water when writing about a scent i usually make notes of all i smell as the day progresses before continuing with some research on the scent the following day i then spray the scent on again then start writing about what i smell referencing notes from the day before looking at my notes well what can i say it didn t really help me very much at all this time i can t detect any cucumber bread wheat or orange tree leaves notes as in other reviews now smell this i smell therefore i am the scented salamander very much like olfactoria s travels review all i detect is lilac but what a lilac it is it begins indolic but soon morphs into the scent of old school florists blooms water soaked and freshly cut stems with a hint of grass more than anything it smells damp the way i always remember lilacs smelling and it stays this way for several hours the scent is strong too two squirts on me is plenty three squirts becomes slightly suffocating at the end of the day when shower water runs down the part of my neck where i sprayed en passant the scent is revived again and for a while it strangely smells and feels soapy in fact this soapiness has such tenacity that it takes some scrubbing to completely remove all traces of it from my skin far from being a scrubber though i enjoy wearing en passant on cloudy days summer days or simply to re create my own hyperreal florist the author behind en passant is olivia giabcobetti looking at a list of her work i am amazed by how many of her perfumes i have unknowingly amassed or coveted over all these years i guess it just took frederic malle and his exceptional editions de parfums line to really shine a spotlight on olivia giabcobetti s talent and make me a true groupie serge lutens fourreau noir dark paradise 15 thursday nov 2012 posted by jenson in beauty music packaging perfume perfume review serge lutens 5 comments tags bell jar forever blue fourreau noir lavender les salons du palais royale myrrh smoke swing out sister tobacco tonka i was determined i really was i did my research tested as much as i could and decided to limit myself to only one fragrance when i visited les salons du palais royale in paris unfortunately the lure of serge lutens was more than i could bear and fourreau noir was amongst the damage at least i didn t inexplicably find myself leaving that store with one of their limited editions bell jars on first application fourreau noir immediately brought about a wave of nostalgia wafts of sweet tobacco swirl and swirl around lavender and incense months later it finally dawned on me that this actually smells of my dad dad was a lover of fougère colognes in fact he would douse himself with so much cologne that his clothes would still smell of whichever scent he wore after it was laundered he also smoked fourreau noir reminds me of how he would sometimes smell a kind of lavender scent weaved into smoke i usually dislike to put it mildly the smell of secondhand cigarette smoke and don t even get me started on cigar smoke but i am strangely compelled to fresh tobacco and sometimes the lingering scent of cigarette smoke on clothes post purchase i ve come to learn that fourreau noir means black sheath now i m pretty sure that references a black dress or clothing material but the first thing that came into my mind was a black leather sword sheath although i think the latter would be more appropriate i can definitely see the allusion to a black dress fourreau noir after all calls out for a more dressy occasion its melancholic character almost deems it impossible for it to be worn on a bright sunny day although that said i d happily wear it just pottering around the house there s also a sweetness to fourreau noir that makes the dress allusion appropriate though the candied fruit aspect common in many of serge lutens fragrances is played down here instead sweetness comes from myrrh and tonka beans that becomes more prominent after the initial smoky phase almond is also listed as a fragrance note but that has always been a note that eludes me i cannot of course speak about the serge lutens exclusive line without any mention of the bell jar glass falcon i simply adore it the look of it the act of dabbing on scent from the stopper the substantial weight of the glass bottle i could go on for quite a while but of course on the flipside it definitely makes it a stay at home scent since travelling with it is virtually impossible being a worrywart i m also alarmed how i can still smell the scent up close even when the stopper is completely jammed into the opening in fact there s enough of the scent to fill up any small enclosed space where i store the bottle is the precious juice actually slowly evaporating away also has anyone noticed sediments settling at the bottom of the jar speaking of juice i find the actual colour to be quite fascinating it mostly appears a warm amber but in dim lighting it takes on an autumnal leaves olive brown quite appropriate really as i find myself often reaching out to it in cooler months or nights despite its dark nature fourreau noir to me is a pretty straightforward scent that only brings out blissful memories and on that note cue in swing out sister a band i absolutely love but has sadly and quite unjustly in my opinion faded into music limbo there is often a longing in their music that reminds me very much of fourreau noir sixscents series three no 5 087 black and blue 08 thursday nov 2012 posted by jenson in beauty packaging perfume perfume review sixscents 4 comments tags 087 beauty engine oil moody no 5 series three soapy woods with the turn of the seasons over here in australia the weather is becoming increasingly erratic the heat and humidity one minute followed by spells of rolling thunderstorms the next has battered my sinuses senseless it also makes me feel blue enough to finally sit down to slowly explore sixscents series three no 5 087 a collaboration between fashion designer n hoolywood and perfumer stephen nilsen the entire six scents concept seems pretty complex annually a group of six emerging fashion designers are selected to create a series of six fragrances with six celebrated perfumers in order to raise awareness and funding for a deserving charity our goal is to create a new way for people to engage with fragrance through creativity with a conscience in its third series six scents focuses on memories an exploration into the nature of childhood memories and the influence of adolescence on identity each perfume is made in a limited run mine is bottle number 807 of 3000 each scent also comes with elaborate packaging a thick slider box houses the scent a dvd enclosed in a portrait of the fashion designer and a 34 paged booklet in that it extensively outlines the six scents concept the fragrances background stories profiles of designers and perfumers and artists in addition to full profiles and credits of the short films included in the dvd well i did say that i had to be in a certain mood to fully explore all that was included with the scent i m a sucker for packaging but less so with extras give me a stunning scent in a beautiful bottle instead any day the dvd contains features of each scent in the series as well as ten short films features about the scents itself were interesting enough and did make me feel like revisiting some of them but the short films mostly three to four minutes long were completely unrelated to the fragrances i didn t pick up on any common running theme apart from them being mainly moody abstract pieces that wouldn t go out of place as video installations in many modern art museums around the world the sixscents concept also leaves me ambivalent on one hand proceeds to charities is never a bad thing but as for its lofty ambitions of being an experimental project challenging boundaries of perception intersection of senses emotions and intellect well broken down the fragrance is ultimately not unlike other fragrances a collaboration between a perfumer and a designer based on a certain concept including unrelated visual pieces doesn t quite translate to me as challenging the other senses i m unsure of the popularity of sixscents perfumes but i did manage to try many of them when i was in hong kong over the years but was never really tempted to purchase any besides 087 mostly it was too difficult to keep up and smell them all as for the ones that i did the actual scent unfortunately didn t seem to live up to their often intriguing back stories or listed fragrance notes when i did try 087 though something felt different on first spray a soapy note immediately brought about some sort of familiar comfort it took me quite a while to realise that it actually smells of engine oil which i happen to adore for better or for worse hinoki woods and rounded fir balsam notes add some strength to the scent along with hints of incense and herbs the volatile fumes then slowly dissipates into a rounder softer scent as it wears on emphasising the sweet salty aspect inherent in engine oil on the whole it feels modern but not necessarily edgy its counterparts would probably be cdg synthetic series scents or bulgari black or even l artisan parfumeur dzing daisuke obana of n hoolywood talks about the scent in the dvd feature of how often in the busy city we can t have places or environments that we can get relaxed in and so the perfumer stephen nilsen created a juxtaposition of memories of engine oil in daisuke father s car against the scent of nature resulting in a scent to relax as for me 087 doesn t cause me to be nostalgic but instead allows me to ease and surrender myself to the blues tauer perfumes discovery set colour me tauer 02 friday nov 2012 posted by jenson in packaging perfume samples tauer perfumes 10 comments tags andy tauer beauty discovery set samples spray vials tauer perfumes look at what arrived in the mail today i ve purchased tauer fragrance samples before but never directly from the andy tauer website if you can t tell i m pretty excited because i really didn t expect the discovery set to be housed in such gorgeous packaging ok so i m a sucker for all things that look nice you can pick and choose five different scents for the set i chose a mixture ...
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