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n when you finally complete a tanks in this game here i have put back together my panzer iii i can now sell it or place it in my virtual museum as the game progresses you access bigger and more complex tanks to challenge you i have reached the pinacol of the available tanks so far but more are in development with the german panther tiger and the soviet kv 2 and american pershing believe me when i say that the more complex tanks can really make you sweat above the interior of the german panther tank using the x ray mode this gives you an idea of just how complex the late war tanks begin to get believe me when i say that there is nothing more frustrating to finally complete a tank like this only to find that you forgot one small component hidden deep inside there is lots more to this game i haven t covered like the excavating for buried tanks painting camo schemes and organizing your museum but the renovation and construction are most relevant to model makers i guess eventually you do work your way through the dozen tanks that come with the game but the developers do have a long term plan for the game and are adding some very interesting projects to the game in the future i m absolutely ecstatic at the idea of doing a churchill tank and lordy that maus tank mechanic simulator is available on steam for 15 https store steampowered com app 407130 tank_mechanic_simulator 0 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels pc games tuesday 16 march 2021 1 1 scale s w model 10 kit part 3 moving on the base colour painting of the revolvers grips i began with another round of masking first of all as you can see there was the fine masking of the outline of the grips but then as i had already base coated the frame in black i also had to find a way of quickly masking the rest of the gun to prevent any over spray yep a plastic bag actually a stay fresh sandwich bag quick and very convenient i then laid down a base coat of a hazelnut paint but as the grips are meant to be wooden i wanted to try and create a multi tonal background for the fake wood grain effect i had planned to go over this so i did some light dry brushing with various shades of brown to create a streaking effect this completed my base layers onto which i would apply my finishing weathering effects but before i begin to start these i decided to take a very quick snap of the progress so far and apply a filter to get an idea of how i might approach the final photography for this project will i eventually go with a sepia effect or just a straight noire like b w photograph for my set of props for this project sepia does give a bit of a vintage look but it s a bit false in my opinion as by the 1930s sepia photographs were already a little anachronistic i think i would prefer to go with a slicker and moody black and white it s more evocative of the hard boiled detective movies of the time while i now start to plan my weathering of the revolver model i m also starting to look around for the rest of the period props to go with the gun for the photo diorama i plan a shot of a detective s desk with several items and nick knacks relevant to a 30s detective in fact i ve already picked up my next prop above dress up america 939 kids pretend play police id wallet i thought a detectives wallet id and badge would complement the revolver really well obviously i would have to make up a realistic id and badge both of which will be the subject of my next project once the revolver is complete i was thinking maybe an fbi badge next weathering the revolver 0 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels 1 1 3d printing gun painting x ref swm10 prop 0221 tuesday 2 march 2021 emperor augustus bust model as i ve mentioned before one of the main reasons i take so long to complete projects is because i tend to jump between multiple projects going from one job to another depending on how i feel at the time and sometime i might not even get back to a particular project for quite some time i m looking at you k7 truck anyway today i m working a new 3d bust model another classic roman statuette of an emperor augustus i am a big i claudius fan and particularly enjoyed brian blessed s portrayal of the emperor who gave us the name for august above a statue of the first roman emperor augustus r 27 bc 14 ad as a younger octavian this sculpted artwork dated to around 30 bc it is located in the museo capitolino of rome italy credit wikipedia i was kinda drawn to this new project as i m just reading john williams s augustus a brilliant and beautifully written novel in the tradition of robert graves i claudius augustus is a sweeping narrative that brings vividly to life a compelling cast of historical figures through their letters dispatches and memoirs modelling challenge this will be my third 3d printed bust and i ve still got lots to learn about the technicalities of preparing and setting up 3d files for printing one of the issues i m trying to make sense of is how the orientation of the model file on the printing plate can effect the quality of the print additionally i want to find out more about how supports can be set up to get the best results so this time around i m changing the orientation of the model on the bed and trying out a different type of support and number of supports the bazzilions of legs look rather disconcerting and i did worry that having so many supports might affect the quality of the print what with all the contact points from all the supports and as it trned out i was right to worry the result looks bad but in a way it is quite positive as well because i feel that i am getting a sense for how things work the fact that i had a premonition that there were going to be problems means that i might be getting better able to avoid them in the future maybe so i m not too down another positive was that as i had hoped the unsupported front of the bust printed out perfectly and even though the back of the head was a bit of a mess it was the back of the head and after a bit of a clean up i could see that it might be fixable so i got out my milliput putty and had a bash at recreating the damaged hair i had to use my imagination a bit but as i said it is on the back of the statuette so i wasn t too worried my hair attempt is a little prominent so i shall give it a bit of a sand to help blend it back into the rest of the model even so it does feel good that i can deal with problems like this wen they occur i ll just carry on experimenting with my prints and try to get better and better at preparing my models so that they have the least amount of problems here s the completed model though i might add a small plinth to it later 0 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels 3d printing bust emperor repairs roman sculpting saturday 27 february 2021 1 1 scale s w model 10 kit part 2 painting the prop revolver because the cylinder included additional detail such as the bullets in the chambers i had to begin the base coating by spraying this part first before installing it i m applying this base coat using a satin acrylic spray i did some research about how other people painting prop guns and i decided to go for a black base and then to apply a powdered graphite dusting which i would then polish up for a gunmetal metallic finish fingers crossed but before finishing of the rest of the frame in the black i would have to mask off the grips which i will be giving a wood effect finish i began by sketching out where the frame and grips would be before applying the making tape now the astute among you will probably be saying why didn t he spray the wood colour base coat before he masked out the frame good question and the simple answer is that i don t have the right colour brown at the moment but want to crack on with the job one of the down sides of this current lockdown is that i can t just pop out to my local hobby shop most of my stuff has to be ordered from amazon if they have it the consequence of this is that when the correct brown spray arrives and i did toy with the idea of just hand painting it i will have to re mask the revolver again to spray just the grip anyway moving on quickly so i sprayed the frame i m kinda disappointed that my airbrush is out of action at the moment so i m having to resort to using a rattle can spray but because the surface of this print is so uneven despite my efforts i m thinking the extra thickness of basecoat is probably a good thing this gives me the basic black i need to start to build up a metallic look and that s what i ll be testing next as well as hopefully working on the wood grips 0 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels 1 1 gun painting prop x ref swm10 prop 0221 sunday 21 february 2021 1 1 scale s w model 10 kit part 1 5 a bit of an addition to part 1 of this project but not quite part 2 the actual painting this is one of those occasions where choosing the easy option turned out not to be so easy after all i chose this particular 3d model of a revolver to print as it had the fewer component parts this was achieved by the designer by crating the 3d file from a 3d scan of an original object there was an alternative revolver model on thingyverse that was a proper 3d constructed object with multiple parts but it did not have the option for the snub nosed version of the gun now i m only a novice at all this 3d modelling stuff but one thing i seem to have noticed is that while 3d scanning is great for producing a very quick virtual model of the object you want none of that tricky 3d design stuff it has one slight downside the cheaper 3d scanners don t seem to be hugely accurate or of tremendous resolution and seem to result in some unwanted surface imperfections which gives the model as sort of weird mottled texture above here is a preview shot of the scanned 3d model gun s cylinder that i chose to make note the uneven and wrinkly surface texture above here is the cylinder from an alternative revolver model which was created in a 3d design application note the smoother even surface the upshot of this in the case of my model gun was that what time i saved by using a low component model i lost by then having to do a lot of surface clean up du oh hi ho hi ho it s off to work we go in part 1 of this project i got to the point in the model construction where i thought i had a model ready for painting which would have been part 2 er no above all my completed components laid out ready for painting the main problem arose as it often does in modelling when the primer was applied to the model in this case i was already somewhat aware of the uneven surface texture of the model but hoped that the filling and sanding i had already done had taken care of the worse of the defects but as an extra precautionary step i decided to use my new filler primer spray rather than just a normal paint primer as a base coat now the down side of priming can be that the smooth base coat layer can have the effect of highlighting any more subtle surface defects that you perhaps didn t notice when the model was in the raw and such was the case with my revolver above applying plastic putty to some of the deeper dinks although the thick and gloopy filler putty spray did help smooth out some of the more shallow wrinkles in the scanned model i found that there was still some pitting here and there so plan b was to try and rectify these with an extra surface repair material vallejo s plastic putty plastic putty is a funny stuff it s an acrylic water based putty almost a cream in consistency that can be squeezed or brushed onto the model and when soothed out onto the surface like plaster fills seam lines and slight gaps an alternative to this product is mr surfacer 500 liquid putty but i like the immediacy of plastic putty this is also why i am using it instead of my usual go to filler putty milliput which demands to be left to cure for 12 hours before sanding i simply dab on small dots of plastic putty to cover pitting or squeeze out a thins line of putty in the case of seam lines then i use a wetted smooth and wise brush to gently smear the putty into the defects and carefully blend the excess out over the surrounding area i leave the putty for just a few minutes this is all it needs to start drying be warned and then i further blend away any unwanted putty as i say this is a great quick fix approach which is rather more of a cosmetic technique deeper faults would require something like milliput and plastic putty does have it s downside too much excess putty is bad as while you can sand it after at least and hour of curing it doesn t sand brilliantly well you can run the risk of chipping or tearing off some of the repair work you have done if you aren t careful so be careful so now i think i am ready to start painting lol 0 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels 1 1 3d printing gun priming prop x ref swm10 prop 0221 tuesday 16 february 2021 1 1 scale s w model 10 kit part 1 well no sooner had i decided that multipart 3d prints can count as kits than i started on my next project this time it s a life size revolver the background for this is my interest in solo role playing i m a fan of the lovecraft mythos horror and unlike group rpgs it s somewhat harder to get into the spirit of the game so heavily based on atmosphere as is a mythos investigation call of cthulhu is one of the most popular lovcraftian mythos rpg systems and it includes a nice solo scenario which is my preferred means of playing for those of you not familiar with a mythos rpg like call of cthulhu it s part horror and part detective story think of scooby doo if it were directed by wes craven anyway to get into the mood some solo players like to dress their game table with some suitable and relevant props in my case i am collecting a few items reminiscent of a 1930s private eye hence the s w detective style revolver i m a big fan of the 1930 s hardboiled detective movies trouble is my business 3d printing a model is for a novice like myself can be a bit of a challenge in itself but as this will be a prop it will add an extra modelling dimension to the project after printing i will be painting the model and trying to achieve as realistic looking effect as i can i m just not quite sure if my painting skills are up to it we shall see to begin i found the model i wanted on thingyverse well i actually wanted a colt detective 38 but the s w was the next best thing the model isn t very complex and looks like it was 3d scanned so the texture is a little janky but passable for a prop on the positive side as the picture above shows the model files included to versions of the s w model 10 the standard 6 inch barrel version and the 2 5 inch snub which i want not having so many parts to print has it s pros and cons the model was quicker to print t...