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ad i decided that multipart 3d prints can count as kits than i started on my next project this time it s a life size revolver the background for this is my interest in solo role playing i m a fan of the lovecraft mythos horror and unlike group rpgs it s somewhat harder to get into the spirit of the game so heavily based on atmosphere as is a mythos investigation call of cthulhu is one of the most popular lovcraftian mythos rpg systems and it includes a nice solo scenario which is my preferred means of playing for those of you not familiar with a mythos rpg like call of cthulhu it s part horror and part detective story think of scooby doo if it were directed by wes craven anyway to get into the mood some solo players like to dress their game table with some suitable and relevant props in my case i am collecting a few items reminiscent of a 1930s private eye hence the s w detective style revolver i m a big fan of the 1930 s hardboiled detective movies trouble is my business 3d printing a model is for a novice like myself can be a bit of a challenge in itself but as this will be a prop it will add an extra modelling dimension to the project after printing i will be painting the model and trying to achieve as realistic looking effect as i can i m just not quite sure if my painting skills are up to it we shall see to begin i found the model i wanted on thingyverse well i actually wanted a colt detective 38 but the s w was the next best thing the model isn t very complex and looks like it was 3d scanned so the texture is a little janky but passable for a prop on the positive side as the picture above shows the model files included to versions of the s w model 10 the standard 6 inch barrel version and the 2 5 inch snub which i want not having so many parts to print has it s pros and cons the model was quicker to print the parts there were 4 but it does mean that it is somewhat less detailed and of course there are now working parts there is another more complex model which is a true multi part model with all the real revolvers main components as separate objects for printing but this just comes as the 6 inch version 3d printing strategy as i learned from my recent athena bust print having the ability to print as one or a few pieces maybe nice but i found i could squeeze a little extra quality out of the file if i sub divided some of the more tricky parts using the slicer software doing it this way breaking down the model also meant that i was less worried about having to use a lot of print support and that they might not work so i decided to cut the main revolver frame into two halves for printing however even this proved to be a little complex as the revolver s cylinder included the chambers and the bullets and this caused some unforeseen problems and the chambers fouled up with excess filament and there was a defect in the cylinder itself still the rest of the frame turned out not too bad so my solution to this and so as not to waste a lot of the print was to reprint the cylinder as a separate component and additionally slice it into two halved so i could get the best detail out of the chamber and bullets and so this is what i ended up after a couple of days of printing i printed at the best quality to see if i could alleviate the rather rough surface texture print cleanup now the tedious bit a long session of trimming of flash and sanding out any rough spots before gluing the halves of the major components together and then even more sanding to smooth out the joints and seam lines funnily enough i m still not 100 sure what type of glue is the best for sticking pla parts together i ve been using super glue to play safe but i must look this up the good thing about super glue is it can help fill seams between joined parts using milliput putty to fill defects and gaps here i have printed a new catch as the original was badly formed i have also applied a thin layer of milliput which i then ran a knurled handle over to create checkering i m finding that pla isn t the easiest material to sand not like kit plastic or resin and too heavy abrasion can end with breaking down the fibrous layers that the 3d extrusion comprises of so you have to be careful filling and sand is preferable and this is where i am at at the moment continuously finding small blemishes and uneven surfaces that i feel i have to attend to in the meantime however i m starting to think about how i might paint the finished model i have several possibilities of finishing techniques but i also have a couple of alternative finishes i could go for gun metal blue or nickel dare i take a stab at a nickel finish er maybe not in preparation for the assembly of the model i did dry test assembly first just so i could plan how i would put the separate components together as i may have to add some supports of some kind i identified a couple of potential problem spots and decided i it would be best if i added a rod that would pass through the frame and cylinder to hold it in place properly otherwise there doesn t appear to be any major issues next in part two of this project i will begin to paint the assembled model 0 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels 1 1 gun prop x ref swm10 prop 0221 saturday 13 february 2021 when is a kit not a kit ok this sorta has me scratching my head a bit is a multipart 3d model a kit the reason this is confusing me a little is that there seems to be a pretty distinct demarcation line in the modelling world between a kit and a 3d printed model but let me explain my quandry busted it had to happen so far my 3d printing adventures have been pretty much disaster free that was until i took on something a little more complex and a little larger than my normal print models as a history fan i was very taken by some of the classical statues and busts that are available over on the thingyverse 3d model repository so i nervously attempted a scaled down test of emperor claudius as you can see from the above photo of the finished print everything when surprisingly well and i was very pleased with the quality of the result so much so in fact that i was very keen to try another though these are very long prints around 9 hours or more for a 10cm high bust and i decided i would do a series of classical busts my next attempt was a miniature version of the famous athena of velletri a copy of which is in the louve and i set the print settings up exactly as i did with my claudius hoping that i would get the same excellent print results oh dear much to my horror after 11 hours of printing where everything seemed to be going just fine i noticed that something wasn t quite right and sure enough when the print ended and i removed the network of supports that encased the print there was a prominent defect across the shoulders neck and chin of the bust so how do i recover from a print disaster as is obvious i am new to the world of 3d printing were i not new i might have the experience to have avoided such a frustrating failure but trawling some of the 3d printing forums i notice that i am not the only one who has these oopsies it seems to be a common pitfall for all new printers however here s where my background in plastic scale model making perhaps makes the difference i note that for many 3d print novices there seems to be this notion that the goal is to produce the perfect print and yes that is a nice idea but when there are so many things that can go wrong having a strategy for when things go wrong seems only sensible too often i have seen examples where novice printers simply try try and try again always in search of that illusive golden print that was not my instinct for me the kit makers philosophy of how can i save this model kicked in as much as anything else i just couldn t bear the idea of abandoning 11 hours work and the 7 meters of pla filament that had been used to make a model that was 75 80 perfect what could i do to rectify the 15 20 repairing a 3d print as i said it seems to me though this probably isn t completely true that many 3d newbies are after perfection and some maybe don t have the modelling skills required to make pleasing repairs it seemed quite natural to me a modeller to want to make good the bad bits in my print so my first idea was to simply cut out some of the duff parts and replace them with nicely printed pieces luckily doing this is made pretty easy using the slicer software flashforge flashprint this is a program that prepares 3d models by dissecting the model and translating it so that a 3d printer can make up the model from extruding squirting out layers of molten pla filament as it turned out it was a little more complex than that isn t it always with me and just to make things a little more interesting i decided to experiment with cutting up parts even further to see if i could get the best quality prints that i could to be honest it just meant that i had to sit down and do some serious planning about how all the parts would come together like a kit i find it interesting that there seems to be some sort of perceived division between traditional kits and the new craft of 3d printing there is a area of cross over in fact looking into it further i discovered that people like me who have a small 3d printer often use the work around of cutting up large prints into smaller components and then reassembling the output into a large model that they otherwise could not print in other words they make kits parts made i then had to stick them together using superglue although i was not quite sure what was the best thing to use for pla and there were a few little gaps here and there that needed to be filled and smoothed away using fine white milliput putty originally my idea was to have the bust model i am doing as they came off the printer in plain white pla my claudius figurine looked great but with the obvious repairs in my athens as it turns out there is white and then there s white i rethought this idea actually the starkness of the white pla was a little to intense even my wife and daughter commented that it was too much and so i decided to give the model a coat of paint to help disguise and cracks i first primed athena with some of the new filler primer spray i have bought this settles into any small lines and then i use an off white colour to give the bust a marble look i was very pleased with the final outcome especially as the rust oleum painter s touch ivory beige spray turned out to be a satin paint 0 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels 3d printing bust historical repairs statuette older posts home subscribe to comments atom search this blog on the workbench 1 100 kv 1s tank converstion skyrex 1 100 su 122 1 100 scale t 34 model 1943s mw 1 71 gaz aa truck zvezda 1 72 flak 38 aa gun zvezda 1 72 40mm bofors gun hunor 1 72 ford 1939 truck pst 1 72 gaz 55 ambulance last 5 finished models zvezda 1 100 tiger 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