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ing with an early 20s shape helped a little as the waist was not dropped all the way to the hip the picnic was a great time all my friends looked beautiful our picnic was a success and despite the intense heat we really enjoyed ourselves i ll definitely go again next year posted by natalie at 3 21 pm 12 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels 1920s completed projects tuesday december 31 2013 1790s open robe i know i promised you updates weeks ago but my life got a little crazy my husband and i rather abruptly decided to move out of the apartment we ve been in for the past few years and into a lovely and much larger house the good news is i now have a much nicer sewing space the bad news is my free time in the last few weeks has been taken up by all the fuss of packing moving unpacking and settling into our new home no time for blogging as 2013 draws to a close i want to catch up on all the sewing i ve done since the summer so i can start fresh with regular blogging in the new year my last proper post was just before costume college so let s start there since i made the decision to attend costume college rather late in the year i didn t have much time to make clothes specifically for it luckily i had made several new dresses earlier in the year that would work well for some of the events my gibson girl ball gown would be perfect for the gala my striped bustle day dress would be lovely for the sunday tea and my red barmaid dress would be fun to wear during the day the one event that i felt unprepared for was the ice cream social i wanted something somewhat formal without being a ball gown the only thing i had that was even close was my white muslin dress but it wasn t quite right either it was pretty but a little bland to dress it up a bit i decided to make a sort of open robe to wear with it the vision in my head was for something along the lines of the following fashion plates 1794 1797 i can t find a date for this one but probably 1797 1800 1800 as you might recall from the post about my turban i was lucky to find a great fabric for my robe at discount fabrics here s the fabric with my shoe again while researching the common shapes and construction of this style of garment i came across an extant robe made from a textile that clearly evoked my chosen fabric royal ontario museum 1801 i can t link directly to the item page if you go to their image database page and search for accession 2004 33 1 you can view more images back detail i modeled the cut and styling of my robe on this one using the pattern from my muslin dress as a base i lined the bodice and sleeves in a tan cotton linen blend but left the skirt train unlined i ended up cutting my train much shorter than the original garment as i didn t want to be tripping on it all night i also made wider straps for the front closure without further ado here is the finished product this is also the first proper picture i have of the white dress with its long sleeves my accessories include a draped turban an embroidered reticule and my turquoise pemberley shoes i m rather pleased with the overall look but there are a few details i would like to change if i decide to wear it again the front straps need to be angled differently they rode up as the night wore on and didn t sit smoothly also the sleeves should be an inch or two shorter to make the proportions work but for something i threw together in a week or so i feel pretty good about it at the ice cream social i posed with a couple of other lovely ladies who showed up in similar styles with aubry and jen jen and i even had matching shoes costume college was a wonderful time i can t wait for next year but when i came back i hit the ground running with several more costumes stick around to see what else i ve been up to posted by natalie at 8 44 pm 2 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels 1790s completed projects costume college regency wednesday november 20 2013 playing catch up it has been a very long time since i updated this blog to anyone who has been checking back to see what i ve been working on i m sorry for leaving you hanging i have been sewing in fact i have been sewing so much that i haven t had much time for anything else blog updating included since i last posted i went to my first costume college my first gatsby picnic and my first ren fair in ten years all of which required exciting wardrobe additions then there was halloween and now i m making a new dress for dickens fair you see why i haven t had time for blogging i will be posting pictures and details of all of the clothing i ve made since july over the next few weeks so please stay tuned in the meantime here s a little preview to keep you interested posted by natalie at 6 00 pm 3 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest tuesday july 30 2013 regency reticule as i continue to build my regency wardrobe i have found myself in need of a reticule since those flimsy figure hugging regency gowns leave no room for pockets a girl needs a place to put her fan and handkerchief to say nothing of the anachronistic necessities of cell phone car keys and such small decorative bags were all the rage during this period they tended to be rather fanciful in shape their pointed geometric outlines highlighted by embroidery tassels and other embellishment early 19th century mfa boston this particularly fabulous example is actually four sided each side has a different central motif click the link above to see pictures of the other sides as i hunted for inspiration in online museum collections i noticed a common theme in the reticules that i was drawn to most of them were white off white and decorated with colorful embroidery certainly there are many examples of brightly colored reticules but the white ones seem a bit more common and were the ones that caught my eye 1800 1824 v a this is one of my favorites so many tassels 1790 1800 v a a slightly earlier example with very ornate embroidery you can see how these little bags would have easily developed from 18th century pockets 1820 1830 v a yes this is a bit later but i love the embroidery after ogling all these pretties i just knew my bag would be white the current historical sew fortnightly challenge happens to be a white theme what a convenient coincidence i was lucky to pick up a half yard remnant of creamy off white silk taffeta for about 3 at discount fabrics a few weeks ago there were tape marks along part of it so they gave me a steep discount off the remnant pricing perfect for this project since i can easily cut around them i chose a simple shape typical of the period basically a rectangle with a triangle at the bottom like the one shown here the shape narrows at the top because of the drawstring for the embroidery pattern i poked around online to find a motif that evoked the style of embroidery seen on originals something delicate scrolling and floral and found one i quite like i would share it here but i can t seem to find either the image itself or the website i got it from sorry i chose embroidery floss colors that seemed period appropriate then started stitching i am a very inexperienced embroiderer so i just made stuff up as i went along the stems were done in split stitch the flowers drawn with outline stitch and most of the rest is some kind of satin stitch i realized after the fact that chain stitch might have been more appropriate but i m still fairly pleased with the result the bag is lined in lightweight white cotton the tassels are handmade from sz 30 silk thread and the drawstrings are 5 8 silk satin ribbon all in all a very simple and satisfying project the details the challenge 15 colour challenge white fabric off white silk taffeta white cotton for lining pattern improvised year 1790s 1820s notions dmc cotton floss sz 30 silk thread 1 1 2 yd 5 8 silk ribbon how historically accurate is it fairly accurate to the best of my knowledge i know next to nothing about period embroidery so the stitches or floss may be wrong the farbics are good the construction is plausible and it is entirely hand sewn i would say at least 7 out of 10 for accuracy hours to complete 4 5 hours for the embroidery plus about 2 for construction first worn will be used at costume college 2013 total cost around 12 about 3 for the silk remnant of which i used only a tiny portion 4 25 for the silk thread and about 4 for the silk ribbon cotton lining and embroidery floss were from my stash posted by natalie at 8 27 am 6 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels accessories completed projects historical sew fortnightly regency sunday july 21 2013 early 1870s day dress here s another post to catch you up on the things i ve been sewing lately last month i made an early 1870s day dress to attend an event put on by the greater bay area costumers guild a tissot bustle picnic inspired by the paintings of james tissot the picnic was held at the lovely ardenwood farm in fremont ca there were chickens and peacocks and doves and a blacksmith shop and a beautiful late 19th century farmhouse in other words a perfect backdrop for frolicking about in fluffy dresses my dress this is the best shot that i managed to get on my phone camera please disregard the errant ostrich feather it was blown askew by the day s lovely breeze i fixed it later the picnicking in progress outside patterson house my dress inspiration the time frame for the event was based on tissot s career and was therefore quite broad 1868 1888 i have been itching to make an early 1870s dress for some time so i decided that this would be the occasion as i started to plan my dress i hunted for inspiration in tissot s paintings the dress that caught my eye is a eye popping striped frock that appears in several of his paintings the return from the boating trip 1873 boarding the yacht 1873 still on top 1874 as i continued looking for inspiration i came across a photograph from the period that gave me a new brilliant idea dagmar alexandra and thyra daughters of christian ix of denmark here were three danish princesses all wearing frilly ruffly dresses in exactly the style of early 1870s dress i wanted to make my tissot bustle dress could also be my entry for hsf challenge 12 pretty pretty princesses here s a brief explanation of who these lovely young girls were and why they were important these princesses were the daughters of louise of hesse kassel a minor german princess and christian of schleswig holstein sonderburg glücksburg a minor danish prince christian unexpectedly succeeded to the danish throne in 1863 after the previous king died without an heir as a result of their father s good fortune these girls rather abruptly became some of europe s most eligible bachelorettes princess alexandra married queen victoria s eldest son and heir and eventually became the queen consort of the united kingdom and british dominions and empress consort of india princess dagmar married the heir to the russian empire and became empress of russia under the name maria feodorovna princess thyra married the exiled heir to the kingdom of hanover technically becoming the queen of hanover she and her husband lived in exile in austria but he never renounced his claim to the throne in addition one of their brothers succeeded their father as king of denmark and another brother became george i of greece what a family for those of you who are keeping track princess alexandra is queen elizabeth ii s great grandmother and princess dagmar was the mother of nicholas ii the last tsar of russia here are some more pictures of the princesses all of which capture perfectly the feeling i was aiming for with my dress check out all those ruffles and those giant braided hairdos here are the princesses with their mother and father i just love the tiny hats my dress i knew i wanted my dress to have stripes and i thought cotton would be the best fabric for an afternoon picnic i ended up finding a nice shirting weight cotton in a grey and white stripe that worked perfectly it s stripey without being quite as dizzying as the black and white striped dress from the tissot paintings dresses in this period were covered in scads of ruffles and trim i think i spent more time on trimming this dress than on actual construction the base skirt overskirt and sleeves are edged with gathered flounces of the striped cotton cut on the bias i then trimmed the flounces with a delicious lavender velvet ribbon accented with bows made from a matching silk satin ribbon i used a matching lavender silk taffeta for the covered buttons and the box pleated frill around the neckline i also trimmed the neckline with some cotton lace which i used to edge the cotton organdy undersleeves as well the same cotton organdy made a faux chemisette to fill in the open neckline lastly i made a separate belt out of the lavender silk taffeta with a satin bow to hide the hook and eye closure the best photos i have of the dress were taken by the lovely kim yasuda the next few shots are from her photoset which you can view here my favorite shot of the front of the dress on the front steps as we began a tour of patterson house here s a shot that shows the neckline trim and my braided hairdo my feathers were behaving better by this point i think the dress looked best from the back checking in at the gate walking to the picnic site i wore the dress with a simple lobster tail bustle one plain petticoat and one with deep ruffles my hat was a tiny black straw hat from the berkeley hat company heavily modified and trimmed with cream and pink paper flowers lavender silk satin ribbon a vintage black silk taffeta ribbon and two small grey ostrich drabs jane the cat finds hat trimming rather boring i carried a cheapo nylon covered costume parasol purchased here and wore my american duchess tavistock button boots my necklace is a lovely antique porcelain pendant with painted flowers that i picked up at the alameda antiques fair last month here s a closeup to show you how pretty it is i think i paid 5 for it here are the details for my danish princess 1870s day dress the challenge 12 pretty pretty princesses fabric grey and white striped cotton shirting lined with white pima cotton broadcloth and trimmed at the neck and sleeves with a bit of white cotton organdy also some lavender silk taffeta for some of the trim pattern the bodice is tv400 1871 day bodice i modified the back slightly combining the side back and side pieces into a single piece that extra seam isn t very common in the earlier bustle period i also added deep flounces to the sleeves the skirt pattern is from period costumes for stage and screen the overskirt is from the striped dress on pg 28 29 of patterns of fashion 2 year 1870 71 notions hooks and eyes lavender velvet ribbon lavender silk satin ribbon white cotton lace covered buttons the dritz ones i wa...