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ed but again i m used to adding 1 5 cm to everything what with the computer here the big book there and still not understanding how i was supposed to turn those corners flipping here and there it was a muddle i also found the construction of the neck placket hard to read for the same reason of unfamiliarity with their system i suspect this is a problem of simply not being used to such a different style of colored graphics and the need for a computer their styling is growing on me and their latest magazine is very tempting as the french say i may crack again posted by inkstain at 00 08 1 comment email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest sunday 22 may 2022 recovering restyling rediscovering a pink dress fail from burdastyle 4 2021 102 to this happy sunny frock from this draggy dumpster fire sack inspired by a fashion spread in the french weekly elle last spring i threw together with some rather epic setbacks in fabric supply condition fitting etc three pink dresses the one i considered the least successful was the muumuu like buffet dress on me it just looked like a baggy ton of viscose without definition or style i never wore it not once but it s now my favorite garment eliciting repeat requests from my husband what happened not much all it took was a western style belt to pick up on the prairie flower motif and a shorter hem i am not the buffet dress type lesson learned posted by inkstain at 02 50 2 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest tuesday 19 april 2022 another alterations story daughter found vintage piece for birthday recovery remember my ralph lauren hacking jacket alteration thanks to a find by my daughter in a soho vintage shop in london she did it again new luisa spagnoli jackets run some 600 dollars https www luisaspagnoli it us_en jackets blazers promotion html so when actress daughter on a very very slim budget found one in a vintage shop in london she snatched it up for my birthday it boasted a great true red wool mix fabric in excellent condition and wonderful italian roman head buttons with flawless finishing but it was a size 42 just a bit too tight around the hips and too short in the sleeves but fine across the shoulders and chest like any good quality jacket this piece had enough seam allowance to let out the three back seams in the back to about 5cm and to let down the sleeve hem by about one inch i also moved the front buttons by half an inch the whole rehab took about 90 minutes it needed a milanese finish so i ve styled it above a red and black krizia silk scarf i inherited from my own mother in the 1980 s posted by inkstain at 23 56 4 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest saturday 9 april 2022 back to an old love safari dressing a camp shirt with gifted fabric from indonesia rendered into burdastyle april 2021 105a strictly speaking lilac pale mustard and brown aren t my colorways these days i ve pretty much got an all blue self sewn wardrobe for day with a run of black concert outfits jackets for those pre covid evenings and a breakout spring selection of cheerful pink mauve buff in jeans cottons and scarves for the rainiest days but when i was gifted a little over a rather narrow meter of excellent quality cotton batik i thought why not well here s why not one end of the length had a blazing royal blue rectangle muffled now as the lower back section which clashed with the overall coloration imho and there were running borders down both sides which limited pattern placement but i do have a soft spot for safari camp hotweather wear with an ethnic touch so i persevered and cut this out very carefully single piece by piece to make sure that the border selvages landed at the hems of bodice and sleeves perfectly and that the only royal blue bits that are visible from the front are perfectly positioned as shoulder pieces this is a pattern that i d already spotted last year but it required 1 30 m of 140 cm wide according to the mag instructions haha not true if you re really canny burda featured two versions one in a hawaiian mood below and the other nautical with stripes my version pictured above is only short of buttons but the custom buttons are ready below for tomorrow i need to be fresh to do buttonholes i ve tried layering the shirt already under two different beige khaki safari jackets and both tone down the garish print to my satisfaction now all i need is a bit of tropical sun in case you missed it i wrote a three part post on safari dressing in the archives here ten years ago everything i wrote then still holds it s a classic style of dressing for springtime https chanelno6 blogspot com 2012 08 safari jackets part i html posted by inkstain at 01 25 no comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest tuesday 22 february 2022 a vintage 1959 car coat burdastyle october 2021 with some chanel look camellia buttons from zaza of canada i don t keep much of a stash but since getting hooked on buying three metre remnants from les coupons de saint pierre in paris https www instagram com explore tags lescouponsdesaintpierre hl en i ve found i can t resist certain bargains so i found myself with some inexpensive poly black bouclé because i already have a very loved and sturdy black bouclé chanel type jacket of better quality material i decided to have a go at beefing up this bouclé for a chanel feel retro coat the last black coat i sewed was the burda easy waterfall style that shoots all the way to my ankles and feels like wearing a cozy cashmere blend blanket but it lacks definition or chic for evening wear for variety i went for the knee length october burda style vintage car coat which they showed in both iterations in 1959 and in 2021 in teddybear fleece that s not my favourite fabric to be frank though it s in fashion right now i think it risks looking like a bathroom rug if not kept in very good nick and well accessorized i underlined my whole coat with lightweight interfacing to add body to the slight boule shape and collar notice how i m styling it with a classic scarf around the neck to enhance the fifties feel i also ordered a very sturdy poly satin lining the pockets are fully interfaced lined and hand stitched to the body there s a nifty 50 s style belt draped at the back from the side seams the fabric didn t seem like it would take well to cutting in buttonholes so i decided to order black coat snaps for the interior and to try an etsy supplier zaza of canada for a set of chanel style camellia buttons in black and white for the exterior zaza of canada s service was prompt the order beautifully packaged and isabelle s communication excellent but only one little hitch occurred probably my fault one of the buttons flowers detached from its base i had to re glue it together with cement it my heart in my throat fearing i might damage the button before stitching it on again the buttons are the main event of this coat so perhaps i should have ordered a backup button or two for the future i may order other buttons again from isabelle at zaza of canada but with the caveat that these are not workhorse features but handmade luxuries thanks anyway isabelle great service posted by inkstain at 03 32 1 comment email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest monday 21 february 2022 two burda easy blue sweater dresses saw me through another semi confined winter covid season so it s time at long last to put my two winter sweater dresses to bed and get ready for some spring sewing but for friends down under just approaching their autumn winter season i recommend these two burda easy models that satisfy the need to be cozy during the simpler life many of us are leading these days and i can hardly believe it but i m actually writing about two covid winters not one that s how strange my concept of time during confinement has become as part of my capsule wardrobe which features a lot of french or navy blue i purchased two different knits from coupons de st pierre both synthetic mixes but not toooooo bad in terms of comfort and quality the first actually cut out during the christmas season of 2020 2021 maybe the worst christmas for our family ever as the london based daughter was trapped in london by swiss flight cancellations was this dolman sleeved cowl neck 06 20 3c in a navy chiné poly rayon knit with a lot of warmth and loft you can see below a close up of the slightly tweedy knit i accidentally cut double the length needed for the self belt and ended up liking it worn that way as a kind of feature the second sewed last spring was this turtle neck with a standard sleeve done in a slightly dressier looser navy blue knit with a bit of silver lurex woven through again because these pictures can t do the different knits justice i ve done a closeup of the sleeve this second dress is actually a frankenpattern using the burda easy turtleneck top pattern and extending it by overlaying to lengthen in another burda knit dress to get the silhouette right i think it could still use some pulling in with a belt burda s website no longer shows these last two patterns as burda easy downloads they seem to have morphed into burda catalogue paper patterns but for the record these are what i overlaid to get a pattern for a pretty standard turtleneck knit dress both were as promised quite quick and easy sews in fact i think i spent as much time tracing and prepping the patterns as cutting out and sewing up the dresses and frankly life right now is still covid limited and all my more beautiful or formal clothes for concerts or dinners out are languishing in the back of the closet the lurex number was just right for a family new year s eve dinner at home with a son and girlfriend i ve found myself regularly pulling out the dolman number for any day i m just damned sick of my denim jumpsuits and stretch leggings posted by inkstain at 10 13 1 comment email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest thursday 4 november 2021 so i tried patrones for the first time with mixed results after my long gripe about the repetition of designs from burdastyle i had to put my needle where my mouth was so to speak and try another pattern company here in switzerland we get some translated versions of patrones magazines delayed by at least one season after translation into couture actuelle with instructions that are even more minimal than burda s and outlined on the pattern sheet in only half the sizese g if you wear a 42 you might have to guesstimate when tracing between the lines for size 40 and 44 but still some of their designs are very chic indeed and lately burda has been looking clunky rather than trendy but in one of the draggiest new developments in the home sewing world this company sells translated magazines too late in the season or only make their patterns available online to people outside the spanish market via an app on google play for downloading pdfs for the french market it seems they choose to translate some of the mags but not every one as far as i can make out anyway i grabbed the french version of the magazine above full of some delicious maxis meant for last spring i had a bit of a drama trying to estimate whether my size was the same as the german burda ones and according to the charts i had to size up i d seen a lot of patchwork motifs this summer and got a nice fun viscose for nothing much from coupons de st pierre the colors were a bit drabber than i expected definitely on the autumnal side so i traced out this maxi shirtdress and where i would have been a 42 bodice i went up to 44 and traced a 46 skirt in the end i got this it wasn t entirely a failure and certainly educational the bodice is just too roomy and the armholes too low i had to take in both sides of the skirt before inserting the side zipper by hand i shortened the skirt when i saw that it was just all too much too much patchwork business too much fabric and way way too much droopiness after finishing the dress i did what i should have done from the outset it turns out that i should have cut a 40 everywhere in the bodie and moved to a 44 in hips and waist i don t know about other people s experiences with patrones but i suspect the mandarin collar piece was not well drafted as it proved too short to enclose over the upper edges of the front facing i re checked the pattern template sheet to make sure i d been faithful to the lines i had to rip and restitch the margin of both front collar curves reducing my 1 5 cm seam allowance down to a mere 7mm seam to make the piece long enough to enclose and complete finishing the raw blouse facing upper end edges i m also not convinced by the style of the skirt s design it was made up of two semi circles which ended up with a lot of the drape collecting at the sides and resulted in bias droop at the sides while the center of each piece was not cut on the bias making it shorter in front and back than the sides i let the skirt hang overnight and remedied the uneven hem with careful handstitching a skirt this full should in my opinion be cut in more equal gores to distribute the bias droop like the mccall s maxi described in a previous post about pink dresses fed up a little i realized i had no inclination to make a man s type tailored cuff in the sleeves so i binned the interfaced cuffs and went for an elasticated ruffle sleeve which was more in keeping with the feminine feeling of the patchwork by sheer coincidence i had three self covered buttons in my stash left over for many decades from my now grown daughter s baptism dress sewn in pink silk they look fine and as there was no need to insert buttonholes i did a dirty fix and just sewed the bodice closed under the buttons i ve styled it here with a brown leather belt it s not a dream dress but not a disaster as experiments go i m not quite sold on patrones as a substitute for burdastyle yet but i may try a smaller project like a blouse to get the fitting sizing right i wore it to host a luncheon last weekend and got one compliment on it which was nice posted by inkstain at 10 13 1 comment email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest older posts home subscribe to posts atom reading me on your iphone or ipad when fighting for love get a warlord on your side love and the art of war a comic novel click on image to purchase a visit from voltaire a comic novel nominated for the orange prize baileys prize for fiction click on image to purchase amelie s review of a visit from voltaire luxury reading the wardens of punyu the chilling and romantic first volume of the handover mysteries click on image to purchase the end of may road in all formats goodreads best mystery thrillers of 2011 click on image to purchase the shadows of shigatse in all formats the third volume of the handover mysteries under their skin a romantic novel about what lies beneath the 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