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walk from my apartment at the south end of prospect park even in the snow posted by unknown at 7 50 am 0 comments tuesday september 16 2014 stories that could be written about chocolate in barcelona montreal and elsewhere really wait what yes i m still here you might not be last time i checked in here i was driving around england in a 1967 e type jaguar that was about a year after martin christy generously introduced me to the haltingly precise chocolate craftsmanship of william curley on a chocolate tour of london nearly another year has gone by and after taking the same e type jaguar through spain and france over the summer i just made another stop in england with my significant other the very same significant other who drives the e type jaguar to find that curley now has a counter in the magnificently tiled harrod s food hall and that such expansion has made his exquisite confections much more accessible if just a touch less precise it s been a busy year a new teaching job a new partner and a return to new york that s given me the time money and space to reshuffle some of my commitments focusing a bit more on my person and a bit less on my persona these days before i go any further i ll remind myself to point out that this blog is as much about chocolate as it is about me so why haven t i written about chocolate at all since the beginning of 2014 why is that app project stalled and that twitter feed on near hiatus too don t i have a professional debt to pay to brad kintzer and zohara mapes of tcho for their lively dinner table conversation to nat bledder of madre chocolate and chocolate elder statesman steve de vries both of whom invited me to crash on their couches during chocolate trade events in recent years isn t there a story waiting to be written about the global chocolate bars arranged on narrow wooden shelves bolted into the exposed brick walls at the new la tablette de miss choco boutique in montreal oh yes of course yes to all of it there is no lack of material quite the opposite for an up to date report on the thriving global artisan chocolate industry written with an appropriate degree of enthusiasm i direct your attention immediately to sunita de tourreil of the chocolate garage in the bay area but in keeping with my own odd brand of benevolent antiestablishmentism the ongoing serge in chocolate quality and information has caused in me ironically less and less of a sense of urgency if i can now find a feature worthy chocolatier in every small and large city buy truly wonderful products at trader joe s and marks spencer and easily f lip through the channels and watch french tv shows about vietnamese bean to bar chocolate makers or vietnamese tv shows about french bean to bar chocolate makers then i m content with that and i can quiet the search for a while don t worry i ll be back and i certainly hope you will be too chocolate in context has always been flexible and it s sticking around i ll stop by with recommendations when i have them though cacao sampaka was closed for summer holidays when i passed through barcelona last month and recipes i invent with my bulk shipment of a custom chocolate blend from my friend fernando in guatemala let s get back to it then posted by unknown at 12 07 pm 0 comments wednesday january 22 2014 ghanian chocolate and scottish scallops gosh where was i those homemade confections were six months ago since then a tuscany owned amedei boutique has opened in new york a ghanian chocolate shop has been growing on brick lane in london proudly the only black owned business on the street though they re going though the common wobbles of making their own chocolate by grinding up a tiny batch of cacao beans in the basement while using a supply from the callebaut conglomerate for nearly everything that they actually sell in the shop and the unlikely missouri based everyman hero of the craft chocolate industry shawn askinosie picked up yet more awards this month during the annual food trade frenzy in san francisco if you expected me to be in the middle of it all this past year interviewing the ever higher profile chocolate entrepreneurs and whisking up subtly superior chocolate cakes i did too but i m going to tell you two secrets about this blog first when things are looking up i do prefer my private life to my public persona and second i m a better cook than a baker i ll leave it at that except to suggest that if you too find yourself driving around the english countryside in a vintage convertible with the top down on a sunny winter s day while new york is about to be enveloped by the biggest snow storm of the season then you might want to stop at the borough market when you make it back to london to buy a wedge of manchego cheese with a sliver of membrillo from brindisa a kilo of scallops and a side of salmon from furness fish and game pay for the scottish fish and seafood and keep the little arcs of roe attached to each scallop they taste great and handfuls of fresh herbs and thai chili peppers from the slightly cheaper than inside the market veg stalls along stoney street that was our view and this was the menu cheese salumi and olives scallops in yellow curry with spicy grapefruit salad canal house teriyaki salmon with lentils and brown rice a selection of chocolates from the best purveyors in town posted by unknown at 10 19 am 0 comments saturday september 28 2013 fall chocolate festivals and other back to school activities expedition in oahu with madre if this post were a magazine article i might call it falling into chocolate or more accurately falling behind on chocolate but in what i can more or less identify as my adult life there has always been a productive tension between writing that occupies a commercial space intended to get people to do something or eat something or buy something and writing that seems to occupy no space other than one in which a reader might find it interesting early this year i was pleasantly surprised to find myself back in academia teaching writing to the freshmen as they begin to negotiate what they might choose to call their own adult lives and since then i have been dwelling in the latter space a bit more than the former so i missed this month s northwest chocolate festival though sunita de tourreil of the chocolate garage referred to the event as the best dare i call it happy chocolate festival of the year there is no other like it the annual uk chocolate week starts october 14 in london but i think i ll have to postpone my inaugural trip until next year and though i m very eager to get to hawaii and see and taste what the volcanic soil is doing to the optimistic immigrant cacao trees i won t be at nat bletter s oahu cacao bootcamp in october either though he does have another camp lined up for spring 2014 already at least while classes are in session i m sticking around in new york luckily as has also been the case in london chocolate has been at the forefront of the rather alarming surge in this urban area s local artisanal foods i m gladly resigning myself to the glut of brooklyn bean to bar makers along with indulgent distractions such as the new liddabit sweets shop in the chelsea market posted by unknown at 11 30 am 0 comments sunday july 14 2013 sunday afternoon domori chocolate truffles three sources are responsible for this momentary indulgence a recipe from food52 that i ve been meaning to make since february the imaginative fancies of italian chocolate maker gianluca franzoni and some very wise words from san francisco chocolatier kathy wiley let s start with kathy she s the founder of the poco dolce brand and owner of the dogpatch factory store that goes by the same name like the buyers for the williams sonoma catalog murray s cheese and various other upscale outlets that carry her squares of toffee draped in a subtle blend of dark chocolate in a half utilitarian decision and half understated elegance wrapper i like kathy s work and so i stopped by her shop in san francisco one sunday afternoon to say so in person but it was closed that day i asked her the next time i saw her why oh she said we don t work on weekends why not i asked she answered and this is what makes kathy such a cool person with utterly relaxed conviction quality of life yep i ll second that so on this sunday afternoon my plan was to do a little bit of work make some good food and then be out the door by 6 15 so that i can catch the all female performance of julius caesar in brooklyn s carroll gardens tonight that gives me fourteen minutes to finish explaining to you how those hand rolled domori confections with the buttery sheen ended up in my freezer you see i had that food52 recipe plus some almond butter from the brooklyn larder some new england maple syrup some shredded coconut a tin of cocoa powder that i wish had been one notch higher in quality no sea salt alas where s mark bitterman when you need him and these four 25 gram bars of domori chocolate 100 criollo javagrey porcelana and teyuna each bar lighter in weight than a pack of dental floss retails for somewhere near ten bucks and in a book that s half blind passion and half valuable instruction titled in search of the lost cocoa domori founder franzoni tells all about the genetic origins of these couverture chocolates and the rich fruity earthy and roast ready flavors the beans produce but on a sunday afternoon you can blend all of those flavors together and i can tell you it s money well spent here s what you do in a small pot combine any four 0 88 oz 25 g bars all the same origin or a variety of domori chocolate broken into quarters with 1 2 cup sweetened shredded coconut 1 4 cup almond butter 3 tablespoons maple syrup and 1 2 teaspoon vanilla extract or paste stir over low heat until everything is slick and combined turn off heat immediately a minute later start ladling out spoonfuls of the mixture and mold them into truffle like balls with your hands drop a few flecks of coconut on top of each ball if you have pink sea salt use some of that here too refrigerate or freeze for at least twenty minutes and then eat quality of life man posted by unknown at 5 35 pm 0 comments sunday june 30 2013 baltimore chocolate bbq good uses for bad wine on the eve of july at the height of the summer during these relatively early morning hours i m thinking a lot about planning i m coming up with a plan to keep all my chocolate bars in temper in my un air conditioned kitchen through the summer i reckon steve devries or chloe doutre roussel in town for the fancy food show might have a solution i have changes planned for this blog which will be eight years old in november i m planning events for slow food nyc the global grassroots organization s local chapter of which i m now proudly a board member i signed up for the creative capital lower manhattan cultural council course in financial and business planning for artists applications accepted through july 2 i have my own lesson plans sketched out for my online travel writing class registration is open through july 1 for a pre college program for outrageously motivated kids in the city and for the new job at nyu at that i couldn t be more delighted about beginning in september time may pass us by we may hear the dinner gong of the first day of summer ring one day only to turn around and see the sun setting on the summer solstice behind us but i m embracing the optimism that accompanies organization and planning ahead for those of you who would like to join me particularly by planning the menu for the 4th of july i present you with a recipe for what one of its originators described as an innovative use of chocolate zinfandel in a reduction barbecue sauce that a chef de cuisine of bolton street came up with that s some fancy ass baltimore shit i will though look back just long enough to provide the ever lingering context to this story first a while back when i was in california this winter to work on my chocolate app project i was waiting for a train one evening when i met two young guys who were on their way home from a ball game of some kind or other they seemed contented with life in the way that makes being the most interesting people in the world they were not unimportant and they offered me a beer flirted with me talked about sports and told me about their jobs one of these guys was the marketing manager for a winery and a proponent of their chocolate zinfandel google it and you ll find several versions of this concoction i can t remember the name of the company this guy worked for which is probably a good thing because i d rather remember how sweet it was of him to drive out to the suburbs to leave an entire case of the stuff on my friend barbara s doorstep rather than to pollute the image of this um blend by mentioning it by name while also pointing out that we left every bottle unopened and decided that barbara would hold onto the stock and give away the chocolate zin as an occasional gag gift second going back just several weeks ago to the epic memorial day barbecue of the above invoked chef de cuisine of bolton street baltimore i made the trip out to the home of the wire specifically to partake in the annual gastronomic debauchery hosted by this man and his wife and along the way i discovered the john waters ready ma petite shoe footwear and chocolate boutique which is the exclusive carrier of the quite marvelous sea salt caramel brownies made by the local blogger at charm city cook it would appear that someone had given our host a bottle of just such a chocolate zin not as a gag but in earnest a couple of days into the trimming rubbing and brining of meat acquired from the best butchers within a 50 mile radius and once belonging to pigs antelope kangaroos and guinea fowl it become clear that the chocolate zinfandel could redeem itself as ingredient in a distinctive earthy blended glaze for one or another gamey meat our unfailing host will not be named in the hopes that he will not be incriminated for this repurposing of the schlocky wine gift and that the giver will not recognize himself in these paragraphs and be saddened and offended but our chef de cuisine s partner in grilling and recipe development jasmine of the drunken fig blog has no such need to protect her identify and graciously replicated the glazed wild boar recipe for me and whichever readers would like to use it for their upcoming holiday plans rack of wild boar with chocolate zinfandel glaze this dish was prepared over the course of four days by no less than three cooks in addition to the bottle of chocolate zinfandel that went into the glaze several bottles of wine went into those doing the cooking this is all to say that the recipe may not be so exact but it will be tasty 1 procure a rack of wild boar i recently interviewed the proprietor of a new orleans restaurant who told me that a guy periodically shows up at their back door with a whole wild boar but those of us who don t own a h...