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ébeuf you will ride it all the way up to boulevard gouin at the northern edge of the island you will then turn left and follow the bicycle route you will pass through a series of tranquil streets and verdant riverside parks until you reach the lachapelle bridge at the very end of boulevard laurentien use the pathway on the west side of the lachapelle bridge to cross over to laval the mighty metropolis of jesus island turn left off the bridge and go around the futuristic school building to get to boulevard lévesque the architecture of laval from lévesque you will turn right onto 81st avenue you will follow 81st two blocks up until boulevard pérron there you will turn your destination is falafel freiha at 3858 pérron the mighty freiha freiha is a hyper specialist there is no sish taouk shawarma greasy potatoes or garlic sauce only falafel the menu offers two choices a regular sandwich two balls or an extra sandwich three balls that s it the key to freiha s supremacy is that the falafels are fried in small batches they don t sit under a hot lamp and they certainly do not get reheated in microwave when you order a sandwich the balls are always warm and delightfully crusty never more than a few minutes out of the fryer the wisdom of freiha the toppings are also unlike the competition as per usual there are tomatoes and those alarmingly pink pickled turnips however there are also pickled lebanese cucumbers and most crucially big handfuls of coarsely chopped fresh mint and parsley all of this is doused generously in a most unctuous tarator sesame sauce so thick that it has to be scooped on not squirted from a plastic squeeze bottle like everywhere else the juxtaposition of flavours and textures the warm and crunchy balls the cool and crisp pickles the gooey sauce and the copious herbs in freiha s falafel sandwiches are a delight under any circumstance with an appetite sharpened by a scenic 20 km bicycle ride eating one is a near ecstatic experience do not expect friendly service or any smiles you are here for the falafel not for an exchange of phoney pleasantries good appetite yes posted by szef bartek at 2 07 am 309 comments labels bicycle falafel laval montreal vegetarian tuesday february 4 2014 only in montreal dear obedient reader a long time has passed since i have communicated with you through these pages i promise you will see more activity here this year than in 2013 before i provide you with longer substantive post you will watch a little tv appearance i made recently on a citytv show called only in montreal the recipe for the soup which is actually called chłodnik not whatever bogus name the tv people gave it was published here a while ago i have of course also provided you with instructions on how to brine pork chops speaking of montreal i trust those of you who live here have been assiduously reading me in the print edition of cultmtl i also occasionally provide online content which you can find here and in the right hand column on this page until soon posted by szef bartek at 12 22 am 108 comments labels beets borscht brine chłodnik montreal pork wednesday may 9 2012 sausage therapy making sausages at home is fun and easy all you need to is two simple pieces of equipment a meat grinder and a sausage funnel figure 1 by making your own sausage you have total control over the contents particularly the type and quality of the meat and the flavouring hand cranked grinders are easy to find and relatively inexpensive starting at 30 for a new one be weary of used grinders they often have worn or mismatched parts and might not work properly to get a sausage funnel the best bet is to go to a restaurant supply store like parts for espresso machines they come in standardized sizes be sure to buy a funnel of the same diameter as your meat grinder i suggest you screw off and bring the ring from the front of your grinder with you to the store the ingredients and procedure described below is for making fresh sausages ones that you must cook before eating the same basic set of ingredients and procedures can also be used to make dried sausages for those interested in making their own salami tim hayward of the guardian provides an excellent recipe figure 1 buy us we re cheap ingredients all sausages contain three essential components meat casings and salt usually they also contain flavourings such as garlic herbs and spices meat you can use just about any kind of meat to make sausage there is only condition that must be met it must contain enough fat specifically to be moist and flavourful your sausage must contain about 25 fat for pork sausage i suggest using 50 pork shoulder also know as boston butt and 50 pork belly which yield roughly the right fat to lean ratio casings natural sausage casings are made of animal intestines hog casings are the cheapest and most readily available figure 2 they are also relatively thin which which makes them an ideal casing for fresh sausages you will most likely have to see a butcher to get your hands on these here in montreal portuguese butchers seem to be the most reliable and least of expensive source for hog casings natural casings are typically sold packed in salt and frozen you will need to soak them in water and separate them before use if you have casings left over when you re done making sausage drain them salt them very generously place them in an airtight bag or container and store them in the freezer for future use figure 2 hog casings are dope salt the word sausage is derived from the latin salsus which means salted in other words sausage is by definition salted meat salt is essential not just for flavor but also for texture it breaks down proteins in the meat making sausages tender and springy any salt will do rock or sea salt with or without iodine for fresh sausages you need about 1 5 2 0 salt by weight i e 15 20 g of salt per kilo of meat flavourings you can flavour your sausages with just about anything the possibilities are endless innumerable combinations of herbs or spices and other things like cheese or chopped vegetables can be added i provide a few suggestions below two classic flavourings are garlic fennel seeds and pepper flakes for an italian style sausage and sage thyme marjoram and chives for something approximating a british banger figure 3 one combo that i enjoy tremendously is pimentón smoked paprika garlic and red wine figure 3 flavor flav procedure like all of life s most pleasant activities it takes two to make sausages you can do it alone if you have a machine but it s far more pleasurable to do it with another person one of you will pump the other will receive the sausage it s a calming almost therapeutic activity the similarity to other life situations is uncanny you will follow this procedure you will grind the meat coarse if you do not own a motorized meat grinder figure 4 you may wish to ask a butcher to do this for you you will add the salt start with 1 5 teaspoons per kilo and the flavourings to the meat and you will mix thoroughly you must fry up and taste a small sample to check the seasoning you will add more salt and flavourings if necessary and you will sample the meat again you will repeat until satisfied with your meat you will begin feeding the meat into the grinder you will crank until a small knob of meat appears at the tip of the funnel you will take a soaked piece of casing and put almost the entire length onto the funnel i say almost because you must leave about an inch hanging off the tip of the funnel this procedure should not be unfamiliar to most responsible adults you will twist the end of the casing with your fingers several times to seal it you will then resume cranking the person on the receiving end should keep one hand over the funnel to control the rate at which the casing slides off some pressure is needed to insure that the resulting sausage is rigid figure 5 everyone prefers a rigid sausage you will continue cranking until you have filled the entire length of casing on the funnel you will now have something that many of us wish they had a very long sausage twist the tail end several times to seal it figure 6 you will repeat steps 4 through 6 until you have used up the meat now you will do the opposite of what many spam e mails suggest you will transform your long sausage into short links at about 10 or 15 centimetres from one end of a sausage you must gently push the meat inside the casing forward and back to create a gap you will twist the resulting link about five times figure 7 you now have a sausage link repeat this along the entire length of the sausage twisting every newly formed link in the opposite directions to tighten not loosen the previous slink you will now separate the links using a knife or scissors don t worry if the ends open up figure 4 grind figure 5 make it rigid figure 6 do the twist figure 7 hyperlink note if a casing bursts at any point during the pumping or the twisting process do not despair a burst sausage casing is no catastrophe you won t get a disease and you won t contribute to the world s overpopulation problem when a casing bursts you must seal it off before and after the break by twisting feed any escaped meat back into the grinder and pump it into another casing no cause for despair your sausages are now ready to cook they will keep uncooked in the refrigerator for a few days for longer storage you must place them in an airtight container and freeze a quick note about cooking fresh sausages do it slowly whether grilling or frying i prefer the latter use gentle heat and turn the sausages frequently they are done when golden brown and slightly sticky on the outside after about 20 minutes good appetite posted by szef bartek at 10 34 pm 121 comments labels banger homemade kitchen equipment meat pork recipe sausage thursday march 15 2012 licensed to grill a version of this article appeared in the montreal mirror on march 15 2012 here grilling means cooking by direct heat radiation the food being cooked rests on a grill at a certain distance from the heat source usually hot charcoals or rocks heated with a propane flame as the familiar charcoal and gas fuelled devices are for outdoor use only grilling is a cooking method most of us use only in the summertime that s unfortunate because grilling is both a delicious and healthy way to cook things grilling in the wintertime need not entail freezing one s derrière it can be done indoors right on your stovetop all you need is a cast iron grill pan basically a large skillet with ridges on the inner surface this can be acquired at a kitchen specialty store for around 50 it matters little whether your pan is circular or square the most important thing is the shape of the ridges they should be at least two centimetres apart and the valleys between them should be at least one centimetre deep beware of pans with shallow ridges placed close together these will just fry foods rather than grill them look at those ridges notice that i said cast iron don t even think of getting anything made of any other material especially teflon coated aluminium teflon begins to disintegrate and emit toxic fumes at tempera tures above 250 c 500 f which you can easily achieve on a domestic stove yes cast iron is heavy but why not improve your musculature while you cook with use cast iron naturally develops a non stick property not unlike that of teflon your grill pan will not have this property straight out of the box however to develop it you will have to allow layers of waxy fat to build up on the pan s inner surface this is called seasoning the pan even if the manufacturer of your new grill pan claims it is pre seasoned you should build up more seasoning by rubbing cooking oil over the inner surface with a piece of paper towel and heating the pan over high heat until the oil is smoking repeat the process four or five times allow ing the pan to cool before reapplying oil when the time comes to grill something on your stovetop heat the empty pan on medium to medium high heat it s a mistake to use high heat you ll burn your food and make a whole lot of smoke allow at least 10 minutes for the pan to heat up once that pan is hot it should be smoking slightly do just as you would on an your outdoor grill obviously the surface area is a little more constrained so you may need to be prepared to cook things in batches even at modest temperatures grilling on a pan will inevitably produce some smelly clothing penetrating fumes if you have a kitchen fan i strongly advise you use it at full power if you don t i strongly suggest cracking a window at least slightly open after an indoor grilling binge in an unventilated kitchen several winters ago my mother told me i would never reproduce smelling the way i did she may have had a point to maintain your pan s non stick properties avoid washing it with soap use only hot running water and scrub it vigorously with a non metallic but stiff bristled brush the inner surface should remain somewhat oily looking after washing steak with blue cheese butter recipe moo ingredients 300 400 g well marbled steak about 2 cm thick 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp butter 50 g blue cheese 1 tbsp dijon mustard procedure remove from fridge 30 60 minutes before cooking to bring the steak to room temperature coat both sides of the steak with soy sauce first olive oil second put the grill pan on medium high heat while waiting for the pan to heat up mash the butter blue cheese and mustard together with a fork in a small bowl grill the steak about five minutes per side for medium rare if you want to impress someone with a sexy looking lattice of grill marks see photo rotate the steak about 60 after three minutes of cooking on each side remove the steak from the pan cover with a plate or foil and let it rest for five minutes this is very important garnish with blue cheese butter and serve one two three serves two normal people or one greedy fat bastard i e myself good appetite posted by szef bartek at 12 09 pm 54 comments labels beef blue cheese cast iron grill pan grilling indoor kitchen tools steak thursday october 13 2011 pleasure tools a version of this article appeared in the montreal mirror on october 13 2011 here when it comes to kitchen equipment i believe in minimalism as a general rule the home cook should aim to have a basic set of high quality multi purpose tools specialized single purpose tools are only worthwhile if they allow you to do something you could not accomplish with a multi purpose tool or could accomplish only through a great deal of agony home cooking like other activities that result in the furtherance of human life should be pleasurable two narrowly specialized kitchen tools from which i have been deriving pleasure continuously for years now are the olive pitter and the lemon squeezer in both cases the tool s arrival in my kitchen altered my relationship to the ingredient it helps to process the olive pitter if you want to use ol...