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bapples george harrison home baking jelly preserves vermont wild turkeys monday september 22 2014 top ten 55 1 washington county vt and environs 2 george harrison all things must pass apple sample track run of the mill 3 minnesota 4 lauren collins the spy who loved me the new yorker august 25 2014 5 poulet grillé au gingembre 6 this american life 534 a not so simple majority 7 cape cod 8 lawrence wright going clear scientology hollywood and the prison of belief 9 david crosby if i could only remember my name 10 boyhood 2014 dir linklater aj posted by aj kinik at 6 01 pm 2 comments labels cape cod george harrison grilling kerouac life according to aeb minnesota richard linklater this american life top ten vermont sunday august 31 2014 minnesota nice pt 1 we had a feeling minnesota was going to be nice but we weren t quite prepared for just how lovely it all was from the people to the attractions to the scenery fig a sublime we touched down in minneapolis and soon got ourselves acquainted with the city of lakes it really wasn t all that difficult to get our bearings what with the river and the grid there to help us fig b mississippi by faribault minneapolis is definitely a breakfast town all four of our party of montrealers are breakfast people and we were only going to be in town for a very brief period of time so we came roaring out of the gate and immediately hit one of the legends of the local scene al s breakfast al s is situated in a structure that represents american diner vernacular at its finest the counter seats about 15 people and the queue forms right behind them until it spills out onto the street of course the structure is literally a converted alleyway a make shift roof was assembled over an alley next to a hardware store to transform it into a shed to house additional goods this space was then rented out and renovated by the time al bergstrom took possession in 1950 it had been operating as a hamburger stand the rest is history but one thing s for sure it s a setting befitting the dinkytown address fig c al s breakfast al s serves an impressive number of breakfast combos alongside some remarkably tasty diner coffee served in bottomless cups of course but one of the things they re most famous for is a dish that s a local obsession hash browns i say a dish because although hash browns in minneapolis are often served the standard way as an accompaniment to eggs or a side order they re also served in a variety of other ways topped or mixed in all kinds of inventive ways al s was friendly and had character to spare they also had a very unique way of getting parties of three or more to be seated together by orchestrating an elaborate form of musical stools and an unusual way to placing orders they didn t call them out the short order cook would walk the line to eyeball the orders and commit them to memory but it wouldn t have meant quite as much if their breakfasts hadn t been outstanding which they were i had my hash browns straight up as an accompaniment to their summer scramble with tomatoes basil and mozzarella but they were fantastic crispy cooked through and actually fully flavoured definitely not the bland undercooked dreck that passes for hash browns in so many breakfast joints across north america after breakfast we took a stroll through the campus of the university of minnesota to visit the university archives with a friend of mine who s a curator there she s also a long time al s aficionado and was kind enough to curate our visit there too we visited their vaults deep underground which contain the world s largest collection of sherlockiana among many other wondrous things fig d sherlockiana and afterwards we made our way over to the university s weisman art museum to inspect the mysteries of their permanent collection and generally take in the scene fig e lounging while we were at the weisman we also caught a fantastic exhibit of o winston link s photographs of trains train stations and train communities along the norfolk western railway the last of the steam engine lines in america fig e training days that night after a cycle tour of minneapolis impressive array of lakes it is the city of lakes after all some shopping some noshing midtown global market and some downtime at our b b we headed back across the mighty mississippi and settled in at nye s polonaise room for dinner and drinks 1950 appears to have been a particularly momentous year in the history of minneapolis not only was it the birth year of al s breakfast it was also the year nye s came into being but whereas al s is the humblest of restaurants more or less squatting a dinkytown alleyway nye s occupies an entire city block and it does so proudly fig f nye s polonaise once named the best bar in america by no less an authority than esquire nye s actually consists of three connected establishments nye s bar which features raucous musical acts nightly including the world s most dangerous polka band nye s chopin dining room a banquet hall and nye s polonaise the heart and soul of the operation in spite of its name the polish fare at nye s polonaise isn t going to win any prizes for continental cuisine but it is a throwback to a time when a night on the town might very well include a trip to an eastern european fine dining establishment cocktail lounge piano bar and when restaurants didn t have any qualms about encouraging each and every patron to eat drink and loosen your belt and the experience is priceless from the old school service and the truman era martinis vodka of course to the gargantuan platters and the classic wedge salads to the drunken sing alongs at the piano bar and the portrait of chopin their patron saint that proudly adorns the wall behind it announcing to all who enter this place has class none of us had the necessary credentials to weigh in on whether it s still the best bar in america or ever was but we loved nye s polonaise all the same when we looked back on it later that night we were downright flattered that the songstress at the piano correctly identified us as out of towners within seconds of our stepping onto the premises and promptly started heckling us we were a little disappointed that she had us pegged for americans from long island no less but she was serenading five or six people at the bar at the time so maybe we didn t have her full attention then again maybe she sensed something the plates on our rental car did read new jersey minnesota addresses part one al s breakfast 413 14th avenue se minneapolis mn 612 331 9991 weisman art museum 333 east river road minneapolis mn 612 625 9494 midtown global market 920 east lake street minneapolis mn nye s polonaise 112 east hennepin avenue minneapolis mn 612 379 2021 aj photograph courtesy of mark slutsky photography posted by aj kinik at 11 47 pm 0 comments labels al s breakfast minneapolis minnesota mississippi river nye s polonaise o winston link trains university archives university of minnesota weisman art museum monday august 18 2014 french connection while we re still on the topic of provence and its cuisine so as expected this summer food magazines were filled with all kinds of tempting recipes for the 2014 barbecue season the july issue of bon appétit alone contained a full spread on diy korean barbecue an austin tx spread featuring an outrageous looking citrus brined pork loin and a grilled rib eye recipe a middle eastern north african spread featuring mint and cumin spiced lamb chops and moroccan chicken brochettes an article on cold smoking and a guide to making and grilling your own sausages just that single issue was enough to keep someone busy over their barbecue for months and trust me it did but the recipe that turned out to be the single biggest revelation of the summer here at aeb at least when it comes to the thrill of the grill was a lonely little number accompanying a book review in the june july 2014 edition of fare the front section of saveur fig a in print the book in question was a compendium of more than a century s worth of writing on grilling and grilled foods culled from the pages of the new york times by peter kaminsky the times has been on fire with their food journalism of late with a bolder multimedia savvy approach that s smart informative au courant and well designed and this tome sounds like another play to further establish position within the lucrative food wine media market it s called the essential new york times grilling cookbook and it s as much of a legacy builder as it is a collection of hits from the times recent generation of superstar food writers it s clearly meant to prove that the times has been writing about food with insight and passion all along decades before the advent of modern day foodie ism anyway betsy andrews review only features one recipe but it was one that definitely caught my attention the recipe was for poulet grillé au gingembre grilled chicken with ginger it was co authored by those old masters of the times 60s 70s and 80s heyday craig claiborne and pierre franey and it first appeared in the may 25 1980 edition andrews was effusive in her praise but what really caught my eye was that french connection to ginger though it s had a presence in european cuisine since at least the days of the roman empire ginger is a rarity in french cuisine waverley root in spite of his name is utterly silent on the subject in his magisterial the food of france ginger is entirely absent from richard olney s simple french food and his the french menu cookbook and the rhizome appears only once in julia child s two volume mastering the art of french cooking and then only in a beef recipe that already contains gingerbread as an ingredient the only place i d actually ever noticed ginger in a french cookbook before was in yet another richard olney book a provençal table the exuberant food and wine from the domaine tempier vineyard a k a lulu s provençal table there olney doesn t make a fuss about it at all but the recipe in question always intrigued me because it just seemed so unlikely poulet rôti au gingembre coudes au jus roast chicken with ginger macaroni with roasting juices macaroni chicken i d never ever tried it but it has been near the top of my to make list for a long time when i spied claiborne and franey s recipe my decision was made there was no doubt about it i was finally going to test this provençal chicken ginger combo i still wasn t sure about its origins north african north african by way of italy was lulu s preparation some kind of clue but its apparition in andrews book review was clearly a sign plus the recipe is dead simple mysteriously so as andrews puts it it worried me at first it called simply for grilling until the chicken is cooked with no specifics as to method or signs of doneness and it yielded so little marinade i felt it might starve the bird of flavor but according to her the results were a classic example of one of those recipes that defies logic one of those recipes whose process is almost alchemical when the chicken was indeed done a condition i ascertained with the use of a modern day digital thermometer how exquisite it was dried thyme and bay leaf and garlic added aromatic flourish an abundance of lemon mingled with bristling ginger to stroke the flesh with sweetness and tenderize it to a mouthwatering moistness abetted by a final drizzle of butter and you know what i couldn t have agreed more i too had the feeling that the recipe couldn t possibly work as i prepared it and i too experienced something magical instead when i cooked the chicken the final product looked great but it tasted a hundred times better it had a perfect skin and was literally bursting with flavour the ginger was subtle but present and that final blast of butter i couldn t believe what i was tasting and neither could michelle fig b in real life without any further ado poulet grillé au gingembre 1 2 5 3 lb organic chicken halved backbone removed kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 4 cup fresh lemon juice 2 tbsp olive oil 1 2 tsp dried thyme or 1 sprig fresh thyme with fresh thyme in our garden right now this has been my preference 1 bay leaf crumbled 1 clove garlic minced 1 1 inch piece ginger peeled and minced 3 tbsp unsalted butter melted season the chicken generously with salt and pepper stir lemon juice oil thyme bay leaf garlic and ginger in a bowl add chicken and toss to coat cover with plastic wrap and chill for 2 4 hours heat a charcoal grill making sure that your charcoals are evenly spread and of an even height ideally you want a fire that s medium hot be patient grill a bunch of vegetables first if you have to grill chicken turning as needed until slightly charred and cooked through about 35 minutes or until an instant read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of a thigh reads 165º f transfer to a serving platter and drizzle with melted butter tent the chicken with aluminum foil and allow to rest for 10 minutes this will complete the cooking process and allow the chicken to release its delicious juices into your platter serve and devour serves 2 to 4 people depending on appetite and number of side dishes based very closely on a recipe that co authored by craig claiborne and pierre franey for the new york times and then adapted slightly by betsy andrews for saveur i still haven t tried lulu s chicken ginger and elbow macaroni recipe yet but i will believe me i will and i haven t fully figured out that french connection to ginger yet but i like it i really really like it in fact there have been times recently when i ve declared it the very best grilled chicken i ve ever tasted aj sorry apologies once again posted by aj kinik at 11 52 pm 0 comments labels barbecue bon appétit chicken craig claiborne ginger grilling julia child lulu peyraud new york times pierre franey richard olney saveur waverley root wednesday august 13 2014 ail ail ma am fig a petit aïoli monstre tomorrow thursday august 14 2014 le grand aïoli is back and this time it s even grander than before in fact it s going to be so huge so extraordinary that this time around they re billing it as un aïoli monstre once again this grand aïoli pools together the prodigious talents of the foodlab oenopole and the birri bros and once again this aïoli monstre is inspired by and dedicated to our patron saints of provençal cuisine lulu peyraud and richard olney if you re not exactly clear on the concept the good folks at oenopole have summarized it this way mange tes légumes et bois du rosé eat your vegetables and drink some rosé in other words all of birri s most beautiful august vegetables lovingly prepared by michelle and seth and served with generous amounts of lulu s legendary aïoli plus all of oenopole s most delicious rosés but i have it on good authority that there will also be provençal style shrimp and atlantic lobster on offer to sweeten the deal even further aïoli monstre sat foodlab 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