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ish dreams recipe deep dish dreams thinking out loud about comestibles showing posts with label recipe show all posts showing posts with label recipe show all posts 03 november 2009 eating with relish every sweet has its sour every evil its good ralph waldo emerson i hated school at my right wing white anglo saxon protestant school i found that there wasn t a lot to look forward to one of the reasons was because i was the noticably ethnic being eurasian i arrived two thirds of the way through the course of primary school with an english accent and barely a clue about australia even though i was born here but i may as well have come from the other side of the galaxy it was the seventies and australia felt small minded and isolated compared to london at least to a small precocious and well traveled child used to the company of adults not other children i was a square peg who didn t fit the prerequisite hole in any shape or form and the daughters of the prominent politicians and matriarchal social mavens of philanthropy eyed me with suspicion in particular my lunches were deemed too bizarre to them cha sui sandwiches one day chicken liver pâté with lettuce the next and liptauer on rye bread when i was living with my hungarian foster family it was odd that opinions could be so quickly formed based on the examination of the contents of one s lunch box no cordial no white bread with vegemite no twisties and no lunch orders from the tuckshop no good at lunch time i was relegated to the corner of the courtyard outside my classroom with the girl whose mum gave her hard boiled eggs although i did not enjoy the odour of the eggs they were exquisitely wrapped in rainbow coloured wax paper and came packed with miniature salt and pepper shakers her mum kept venison in the freezer and i had eaten some of it with their family that was the first foodie secret we shared weird food tastes good years later i heard that her mum had spitefully been tricked into eating snappy tom seafood in aspic cat food by one of the other mums who found her more refined taste in food just too eccentric three times a year at school we had a mid term holiday half term was actually a half day this was the one thing about school i looked forward to if my mum was well enough she would swing by school in the yellow sports car and collect me we would ride home in the low slung beast singing along to the radio on the way home we would make a stop at a milk bar i quietly watched as she paced a lap of the small general store then went to the pie warmer to get me a pastie back in the car i would cradle the pastry in my lap its warmth spreading through the white paper bag onto my thighs the curious smell of parsnip turnip and carrot wafted into the dark leathery interior of the car at home in the kitchen the pastie felt heavy in my hands carefully removing the treat from its bag i would pick at the twisted seam of pastry that bound the parcel of mixed vegetable and minced meat but as much as i loved eating the pastry it was the accompanying tomato relish that i really longed for the relish was made by my nasty bulimic nana she bottled it in skinny old nescafe jars with yellow plastic lids it was dark brown chunky and contained both tomatoes and sultanas heavily spiced and sweet i loved it the smell made me purr i could have eaten it on everything but for some peculiar reason it was reserved only for pastie eating mum however also got to eat it with cheese and crackers starved of decent meals by my mean spirited image obsessed nana grandpa lived on the stuff the last time i tried to make relish i had a mediocre result i unsuccessfully tried to recreate nana s and i blogged the result silly to try to cook up something when you have a cold and have lost your palate really this time i turned to mr sticki s nana s recipe he figures it must be at least one hundred years old and it worked a treat hailing from shepparton she was apparently the antithesis of my wimmera raised nana and mr s has warm memories of her this recipe was transmitted down the phone line from mr sticki s mum bunny and transcribed by my beloved i have written it here for you verbatim it s so simple following the recipe i chose to drain the tomatoes overnight in a muslin bag suspended over a mixing bowl instead of discarding the juices i made absolutely the best tomato soup with them it was pretty much the same as shannon bennett s tomato consomme a fresh light and pretty ideal for an entree or amuse bouche i did find myself adding more sugar to the relish than specified as the requisite covering the tomato mix with vinegar did make it face wrinkling in its sourness my choice was a combination of demerara and low gi sugar for health and flavour plus cooking the mix for longer than the recipe specified which darkened the finish use white sugar if you want it to stay bright red and in that case ensure you stick to the specified cooking time other changes i made were to add less flour and a bit more curry powder and the result although bunny s mother s relish doesn t have as much spice as my nana s and lacked sultanas i would happily slather it on anything i haven t had it with a pastie yet but it stood impressively alongside my frittata pictured made with freshly laid eggs boks bacon home grown herbs and vegetables and tomorrow it will travel to work in my lunch box which my colleagues will examine as usual with enthusiasm and excitement how times have changed nana burgess s tomato relish 6lbs tomatoes 2lbs onions 1 1 2 lbs sugar 1 1 2 tbs curry powder 2tbs mustard 4tbs flour cut up onions and tomatoes sprinkle with a handful of salt stand them overnight in the morning drain the tomatoes and onions and place them in a pot cover the mix with vinegar boil for five minutes add the other ingredients mixed with a little vinegar boil for one hour bottle in sterilised jars 9 comments labels recipe slow food tomatoes 29 september 2008 pick mee hokkien mee dear diary it is day five of our holiday and stickyfingers is still dropping food into her cleavage mr stickyfingers malaysian holiday diary may 08 hawker food it excites me towards my middle age sex is sadly becoming a distant dream but the thought of hunkering down beside a cart to eat a simply prepared dish that s native to an asian culture makes me positively rapturous prolonged rhapsodising causes dribbling waiting for my order starts me trembling and then on its arrival i bend in low over my dish cup bowl plastic bag or paper and inhale deeply and rhythmically the first attempts to eat or drink are ham fisted efforts just to get the comestible to my mouth you see i tremble quite violently with excitement quivering in my anticipation i botch any attempt at hand mouth co ordination plop food and drink hit my ample bosom to grace me with yet another stain with which to match the faded one that i may have garnered earlier in may i was so bad i began to wonder if i should ask mr stickfingers to feed me my initial intake before handing over the item as though to a small child malaysian hawker food is definately at the top of my hawker food experiences the range is enormous never ending and somehow the locals manage to graze all day on it without gaining weight i want their metabolisms and bottomless pits of bellies their ability to eat palm oil fried everything and coconut flavoured foods without having cholesterol issues and i want a gut and mouth that can withstand a lick of hades infused chilli in malaysia we eschewed restaurants in favour of hawker food the lure of restaurants paled into insignificance beside dishes we could never eat back home in fact eating in restaurants felt oddly ostentatious there and removed from local culture so to food courts and hawker centres we went dripping with sweat by roadsides we slurped slippery noodles while hunkered on low plastic stools we ate samosas at a cart outside a wet market kerupok from a cart on a beach hot biscuits from the back of van parked outside a hotel chestnuts from the back of a bike and heavenly barbecued chicken in an abandoned carpark late at night smoke billowing down a street led us to the best satay ever and to onion roti paratha a firey nonya fish made with sting ray and to claypot sausage rice in penang our appropriately named new friend chew fa ming led us through a merry dance of delectable hawker treats and frankly why wouldn t you he seemed to know so many of the hawkers personally selecting wonderful dishes for us and introducing us to fruit we had not seen before in our travels what a godsend we were in heaven days later we were tramping around the back streets for wonderful hainan chicken rice char kway teow mee goreng dosai banana naan various kuih and murtabak back at home i also cook malaysian hawker food you ve seen my satay rendang char kway kak and mee goreng recipes and although delicious they will never match the flavour of charcoal cooked food or the taste of the char of a well seasoned wok searing over jet blastingly ferocious heat one of the reasons i love to cook hawker dishes is that it is quicker to pull together than many western foods on a work night and because it is quick and intense it can be quite healthy if you avoid their chosen fats palm oil and lard naturally the flavour suffers a little without the appropriate fats but i do try to be healthy at home thankfully in australia most of the produce is locally grown too and it s easy to get asian groceries in the urban sprawl and then there are the great leftovers here s my lunch leftover hokkien mee basically the same ingredients as mee goreng but substituting a dark soy based sauce for the potato and tomato curry sauce i love it when i open up a take away container of hawker noodles at an office and sniffing with enthusiasm colleagues ask me where i bought my lunch once a vegetarian was so enticed as to prevail upon me for a taste of my char kway teow and loved it but then gutted acted as though i d poisoned him when he found out it contained meat he didn t tell me he was a vegetarian and you could plainly see it contained meat go figure in the not too distant future i will again be packing the baby wipes to remove stains from t shirts worn while eating more hawker food this time we will be heading back to vietnam and thailand with a side trip to laos for a spot of flashpacking that s moderately more comfortable backpacking for old farts who love an adventure on a budget mr stickyfingers will most probably spend his birthday basking on a white sandy beach eating food on a stick cooked on a portable brazier by a hawker can t wait hokkien mee 500g 1 packet fresh hokkien noodles 1 tablespoon oil 1 large clove garlic minced 150g sliced chicken breast 150g fresh prawns peeled deveined 150g squid cut into bite sized pieces and scored 2 cups sliced bok choy or mustard greens 1 cup bean shoots sambal oelek or sriracha chilli sauce optional fried tofu sliced cha sui cubes bbq pork chinese sausage slices roasted or wind dried oriental fish cake sliced garlic shoots chopped into 15mm lengths sauce 2 half tablespoons black soy sauce or ketchup manis 1 tablespoon light soy sauce 1 tablespoon oyster sauce 2 teaspoons sugar salt and pepper to taste 2 teaspoons cornflour 1 cup water serve with lime extra chilli and sambal belanchan mix all sauce ingredients in a bowl and set aside warm oil in a hot pan wok and brown the chicken add garlic squid and prawns fry until golden also aiming to char them a little add any of the optional items and heat through throw in the noodles and fry until warmed through heat the sauce briefly in the microwave until just warm then stir into the noodles distributing evenly throw in the greens and bean shoots and add a couple of teaspoons of water if the sauce has been totally absorbed by the noodles cook until the vegetables are softened and bright green extra ketchup manis may be added to taste at this point along with the chilli sauce or extra pepper sichuan pepper is excellent in this dish if you have it serve garnished with coriander lime and fried shallots place a bowl of sambal belanchan and chilli alongside the dish for extra seasoning 2 comments labels asia asian recipes malaysian food recipe 27 june 2008 rendang daging in a cookery book about indonesia s regional foods published in 1967 by the then agriculture ministry titled mustikarasa rendang is a method of preparation in which the ingredients are cooked without any oil so when the young man gets homesick he would eat some rendang and offer it to his new friends popularizing the dish among non west sumatran people planet mole i was recently asked which spice paste should i buy to make beef rendang i scoured the filing cabinet of culinaria lodged in the dark recesses of my brain s pantry a drawer popped out and the file slid open to ayam brand and asian home gourmet but my conscience swaggered in and patronisingly said why use a packet when it is so easy to cook for a heartbeat i paused then pushed my conscience behind a pile of eco bags bit my tongue and suggested ayam brand the next day while looking at an immaculately marbled tray of beef ribs from mt bellevue my conscience sang in full cry rahn dung ramma lama rendang but this time i did not demur obligingly i fished out my mortar and pestle fresh asian aromatics and dispatched mr stickyfingers to procure a kaffir lime leaf from the garden out too came the pressure cooker because i didn t have the luxury of time the rempah spice paste came together quickly in the stone mortar and pestle and the smell was so heavenly that i carried it over to mr s for a sniff the beef ribs were cleaved into bite sized chunks and browned in the new scanpan i was still gloating over the fact that i had saved 230 on that purchase and everything was now being cooked in it from char kway teow to pine forest mushrooms the browned meat went into the pressure cooker and after heating the rempah that too went in along with coconut milk then i left the pressure cooker to do its magic in twenty minutes it was ready a moist melt in the mouth consistency and all the sauce was almost dry and coating the meat fabulous in went a cup of dessicated coconut which soaked up the oil from the meat and thickened any viscous dregs of curry i plated it up beside roti and sambal kangkung we ate the rendang was succulent and so aromatic with a sure fire kick of heat from the chilli better than any packet sauce the flavours were clear and intense with significantly less oil in the mix the leftovers were even better a couple of days later my inner voice was right i can understand why west sumatrans ate it when homesick like a stirring memory of a beloved it tickles the conscience and fills your senses with such utter delight that you just have to share it rendang although common in malaysia and popular in singapore is an indonesian dish from padang in west sumatra it was originally brought to malaysia by the minankabau who migrate...