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Text of the page (random words):
ifth and sixth illustrations at the start of this section above this method results in an uneven running stitch which may or may not work well for you as it produces a lopsided gather that is less stable i do not use this method in my work as i prefer more precision i do not currently have evidence that this method was used historically but i haven t ruled it out either b counted if you didn t mark your fabric first you can count the threads in your linen and sew your running stitches exactly straight on the grain and an exact number of threads from one another be sure each row of running stitches is one length of thread and one length only when done pull on all threads to gather the folds c needle length if you didn t mark your fabric first you can use your needle as a measuring tool to judge the distance between running stitches you may wish to mark you needle with a pen or a piece of tape for a consistent distance each time be sure each row of running stitches is one length of thread and one length only when done pull on all threads to gather the folds d eyeball if you didn t mark your fabric and aren t concerned with your stitches being the same distance from one another you can just eyeball the running stitches it s a bit messier but that is sometimes fine for certain things what s most important with each subsequent and parallel row of running stitches line up with the previous rows so that when you pull the threads to gather the pleats they fold neatly e machine sewn you can use a pleater to sew the running stitches for you a pleater is a non electrical machine with a series of needles around a drum you feed your material into the pleater which inserts the running stitches for you the pleater was invented in the late 1940s note i do not have a pleater and cannot attest to its usefulness in pleatwork though many of my friends like them but warn that a pleater isn t always easy to use and it can be difficult to line the running stitches up with the grain and as pleaters did not exist in the 15th and 16th centuries this would not be a historically accurate method read pleater photo copyright nylh am i missing any methods for marking or gathering let me know in the comments regardless of which method you use the gather method usually ends up looking something like one of these photos once you have gathered and pulled your threads 1 4 running stitch gathered tightly great for securing with stem stitches or casements 1 2 running stitch not pulled tightly great for securing with the honeycomb stitch next up the heat set method of creating pleats coming soon previous the press method of creating pleats go to the introduction main page or the table of contents share this facebook pinterest google twitter email print may 31 2015 author genoveva von lubeck 1 comment categories pleatwork tags gathering marking pleater pleatwork pleatwork guide the press method of creating pleats in addition to folding pleats into fabric you can also press them in using a variety of techniques no manual from the 15th or 16th centuries is known to exist that explains the press folding method of creating pleats so it is unclear if the sempstresses of this era would have employed such a method to pleat their cloth however we can make some educated guesses based on the extant pleated fabric found in castle lengberg specifically find 121 a section of pleats from a shirt sleeve cuff created in the late 15th century was found to have a sharp pleat edge which may have caused the cloth to break along the edges of the linen as it dried over time nutz 81 an edge sharp enough to break the linen fibers over time would likely need to be pressed into the linen with something like a smoothing or creasing tool or perhaps a frame that tightly compressed wet fibers one possible tool which could be used to fold the fabric is shown in the image below from the cover of furm oder model büchleini which depicts a frame with what appears to be pleated and secured pressed or clamped fabric no extant frames which visually match this description are known to exist however so it is not clear how this tool functions and i suspect it has an entirely different function in pleatwork more on that later in the guide detail from cover of furm oder model büchlein another possibility for pressing the folds into the linen may have been the wooden or marble slickenstone similar to the one shown below or linen smoother which was used to smooth creases out of damp linen after it had been washed and starched the same tool that could remove creases would have been able to add creases if the fabric was damp and folded slickenstone made from lignum vitae birmingham museum accession no 1965t669 recently i tried to construct a device that would press the folds into a piece of linen it was a board made of ridges of wood set at 45 degree angles upon which you placed a piece of wet linen then a second ridged board was placed on top of the linen perfectly matching the board below the idea is that you would press the two boards together to create ridges in the fabric and as the linen dried the ridges would become more or less permanent folds and could then be sewn together to secure them this experiment was a failure however because the tension of the fabric is so strong that it does not fold when the ridged boards are pressed into it it s possible that if the top set of ridges was made to be flexible that you could manipulate the fabric into the press better but a flexible set of ridges seems a bit too unlikely for our ancestors to have fiddled with i am still considering ideas for it though my failed pleater board update thanks to a reader sarah i ve since learned that the egyptians liked to pleat their clothing a finely pleated tunic is still in existence in the louvre it s unknown how the egyptians pleated their cloth but one theory is that carved ridged boards like this one at the museo archeologico nazionale inventory 2691 may result in a pleats if wet starched fabric is pressed onto it it looks similar to my failed pleating press except it is just one board not two thus i think my pleating press deserves more testing this article on costume in new kingdom egypt sasson 1995 theorizes how egyptians may have used this pleating press and even comments that tests were undertaken with them there is another modern method of pressing folds into cloth used today by couture fashion workers they have a device called a pleater or pleating board pleating press which involves folding fabric usually polyester around a sort of flexible accordion style frame and then heated in some fashion you can see it in action in this video this doesn t seem likely to be a 15th or 16th century practice because of the frame s need to be flexible and the fact that this works best with man made fabrics but i thought it worthy of mention here for the sake of completeness if this method is appealing you can make one yourself with this tutorial next up the gather method of creating pleats previous the fold method of creating pleats go to the introduction main page or the table of contents share this facebook pinterest google twitter email print may 28 2015 author genoveva von lubeck no comments yet categories pleatwork tags iron pleater pleatwork press pressing pleatwork guide the fold method of creating pleats material can be pleated in a variety of ways the most basic method and likely the very first method our ancestors ever employed is to simply fold the material let s look at the research and the actual practice of pleating material using the fold method research some undergarments were pleated with the fold method which involves doubling the material upon itself and then pressing pinning or stitching in place evidence exists to suggest that this method was employed in pleated garments based on the castle lengberg finds specifically find 273 14 which is a small fragment of a pleated sleeve or neckline with a bit of its trimming strip missing the raw edge with the missing trimming strip shows indications that the linen was folded at regular intervals nutz 81 and no gathering thread was found find 273 14 s pleats were spaced three centimeters 1 2 inches apart however which is very large while one could create folds in this manner it produces less consistently spaced folds and would likely not have been used for shirts with very fine folds such as those in find 121 from castle lengberg a section of pleats from a shirt sleeve cuff created in the late 15th century illustration of pleated fragment made with the fold method copyright b nutz practice folding fabric to make pleats is doable but a bit cumbersome and less precise than the gather method i don t recommend this method for pleats with a depth of 1 4 or smaller but it works fine for larger pleats i recommend you dampen your fabric to make it easier for it to keep the folds as you work and this has the added advantage of keeping the folds better later because the fabric dried that way too here are some pleats using the fold method 1 2 pleats folded and creased by hand 1 2 pleats folded and pinned 1 2 pleats folded and stitched tip if you use the fold method to make your pleats you ll probably want to iron them to keep them folded as you work on securing them if that doesn t seem like enough consider using white vinegar to keep your pleats folded to do this spray a pressing cloth with a 2 1 water vinegar solution iron well on the proper setting then allow to cool the vinegar chemically sets the folds note folded pleats are quite common in outer garments if you re looking for a method to make rolled pleats for a skirt please see my rolled pleat tutorial and calculator cartridge pleats are made using the gather method discussed elsewhere in this guide next up the press method of creating pleats go to the introduction main page or the table of contents share this facebook pinterest google twitter email print april 24 2015 author genoveva von lubeck 2 comments categories pleatwork tags folds pins pleats stitches pleatwork in the 15th and 16th centuries an introduction to pleatwork m k a smocking preface i ve been studying pleatwork known modernly as smocking for several years now in 2014 i wrote a research paper called techniques of 15th and 16th century pleated undergarments which discussed the nature of pleatwork and the various stitches that create and secure it i didn t put the paper online however instead i fussed over it well it s time to share my research this is the first of many posts about pleatwork it s not my research paper but it contains much information pulled from it an introduction to 15th and 16th century pleatwork for early modern europeans life was not too short to fold their underwear as the little ice age crept into 15 th and 16 th century europe and access to materials increased underwear became bigger cozier and in some cases fancier the linen undershirt known in the german states as a hemd began to employ a larger and larger amount of fabric which needed to be gathered and secured at the neckline and wrists one solution was to gather the fabric into small corrugated folds also known modernly as cartridge pleats and then secure those pleats in place an analysis of 15 th and 16 th century undergarment pleating and recent research reveals important fabric gathering and fold securing techniques fabric was corrugated and secured in different manners and gathering threads when employed were not used as the sole means to secure the finished work pleating fabric was not a new technique by the late 15 th century when the more voluminous undergarments began to appear evidence of cartridge pleated undergarments appears in 21 of the 52 graves excavated in birka hägg 12 dating back to the 9 th and 10 th centuries pleats appear in other garments beyond this as well including the 13 th century pleated wool fragment from sankt peder in sweden kusmin and the 14 th century woman s gown with a pleated front found in the uvdal stave church in norway guhnfeldt yet it isn t until the late 1400s that we see cartridge pleated garments appear regularly in surviving artwork and extant garments of the era renaissance portraiture is marked by innovations that more realistically portray their subjects including attention to natural light and shadows which is very helpful in identifying and analyzing pleated undergarments we are fortunate to now have access to extremely high resolution scans of portraits which portray very detailed pleats including selbstporträt by albrecht dürer in prado 1498 available at a resolution of 19 047 x 24 047 pixels in google earth which is over 600 ppi 300 500 ppi range is about the limits of the human eye in addition to this more highly detailed paintings give us important clues including bürgermeisters jakob meyer und seiner gattin dorothea kannengießer by hans holbein 1516 portrait of a young man by ambrosius holbein 1518 and portrait of a boy as saint sebastian 1490s by giovanni antonio boltrafflo extant garments with pleats are few in number but they do exist and there have been some recent well documented finds important finds include the 14 pleated textile fragments found at lengberg castle austria in 2008 two pleated shirt fragments from kempten germany in 2011 two pleated linen shirts found in alpirsbach germany in 1958 and a pleated wool cuff dated to the 15th 16th centuries key to this research is an article published within the past several years in archaeological textiles review how to pleat a shirt in the 15th century by beatrix nutz which indicates pleating sizes and methods of securing folds two books die ausgrabungen im mühlberg ensemble kempten allgäu metall holz und texil by rast eicher and klaus from 2011 and the earlier texil und lederfunde by ilse fingerlin show extant textiles with three different techniques of securing folds photographs of 15th and 16th century extant garments with pleats currently housed in museums around the world are also helpful to a certain extent much credit and gratitude goes to lee ann posavad for her pioneering work into pleatwork embroidery the purpose of this guide is to understand how the pleats in the late 15th and 16th century pleated garments were actually created and secured while it is possible for to create a pleated garment that looks similar to those portrayed and found using modern smocking techniques there is particular interest in the techniques employed in the 15th and 16th centuries which includes how the folds were formed and how the folds were secured special attention is paid to the idea that gathering threads when used were later removed or covered and other means were employed secure the folds to this end i have analyzed photographs of extant garments photographs of high resolution paintings and peer reviewed archaeological journal articles with the goal of creating a well researched guide that can be utilized by those who wish to confidently pleat authentic 15th and 16t...