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description=Honor Before Victory. Living in the Current Middle Ages with the Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) ~ By Gregor and Genoveva;
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was not confident in me then it was probably because i wasn t expressing myself well enough i usually didn t even know that person so then the ball was in my court to get to know them and if i couldn t do that for whatever reason shyness i could at least try to express myself to the world better because in the end being recognized as a peer is really just recognition of the awesomeness already present it won t change who you are make you a better person or anything like that it s recognizing something you should already be feeling inside so yeah i felt frustrated when the order didn t work as fast as i wanted but not resentful honestly i m grateful they even noticed me i do not like to toil in obscurity and now that i ve been placed on vigil i feel humbled that they chose me at all it has put many things into perspective for me as for burnout that s really more about my inclination to take on ambitious projects that is my problem that has nothing to do with the order i get burned out all the time i also bounce back all the time but the burnouts are usually preceded by burning brightly and making or doing something awesome often something that challenged me to grow so that s alright with me life might be a bit boring and mundane for me otherwise of all the things on my mind since this happened a big one is how my being placed on vigil could make others feel those who are not yet peers but might like to be maybe someone out there reading this is feeling a bit sad or overlooked or just unrecognized why her and not me or why her and not this other person if we re all honest with ourselves i bet we all have felt this at one point or another my best advice and this comes direct from my psychology degree is to neither repress this feeling nor to feed it in time you will find the ways to express the awesomeness inside you to the point that others recognize it too in that way it really is all about time time to be the best you can be time to share it with others and time for the order to recognize it richelieu cutwork embroidery apron and tutorial 11 january 2016 comments 1 this weekend my mentor and friend mistress crespine de la vallée was to become a member of the order of the pelican the society s highest service award to celebrate this auspicious occasion crespine s mentor master philip white also my mentor and friend asked if i would make her an apron when i queried him as to what sort of apron he envisioned as there are many fine aprons one could make he said he once saw an apron with piece work white embroidery and a laurel wreath with the pelican inside of it he told me to let my creative license go so after some research and consideration to crespine s persona of a 16th c french noblewoman i decided to make a fine white apron with a cutwork motif there was just one hitch i d not done cutwork before i was familiar with the concept and i ve done drawn thread work but this was a step beyond nevertheless i love to learn new fabric manipulation and embroidery techniques so this wasn t deterring me looking online i could find examples of 16th century cutwork but no comprehensive tutorials on how to actually reproduce it i pieced bits together from two web sites needlework tips and techniques com and needlenthread com which introduced the concept but did not go into great detail i later found a few pages in encyclopedia of needlework by donna kooler leisure arts inc 2000 the book that really helped me was a 100 year old book the priscilla hedebo and cutwork book by lilian barton wilson 1916 which is reprinted in the cutwork hedebo broderie anglaise book edited by jules kaethe kliot lacis 1992 the cutwork book didn t have step by step instructions but it had plenty of notes that lead me in the right direction after that i learned by doing which means trying failing and trying again until it worked and looked right the style of cutwork i learned is typically called french richelieu cutwork named after cardinal richelieu who imposed a duty on all italian imports and then brought lacemakers to france to teach the locals how to do it themselves cardinal richelieu post dates the society s time period by a few decades but we know the technique existed in the 16th century and was in employ in italy france and the netherlands among others cutwork pieces were highly prized amongst the royals and nobles throughout western europe mary queen of scots received cutwork as a new years gift in 1556 and then later made her own cutit out work while she was imprisoned england has sumptuary laws that restricted cutwork clothing and accessories to the rank of baron and above only for more historical information see needlework through history an encyclopedia by catherine amoroso leslie 2007 richelieu cutwork is characterized by freeform designs with buttonhole stitch bars the stabilize the areas of removed fabric here are photos of the cutwork apron i made and below them is a tutorial on how to create your own richelieu cutwork piece the cutwork apron as may be worn the laurel pelican cutwork motif the belt and the drawnwork hems of the apron mistress crespine wearing her apron richelieu cutwork tutorial materials high quality linen the tighter the weave the better note i used 2 oz white handkerchief linen wlg 109 from wm booth draper 32 yard it is their finest linen very tightly woven with tiny threads and is not often in stock so if you find it get it if you can t get it go for the 2 8 oz linen white linen thread 80 3 available at http www wmboothdraper com thread thread_main htm white silk thread i used 1 strand of the 12 ply splendor silk available at http www needleworkdiscount com product s i used cool white or white coton a border 25 available at http www hedgehoghandworks com catalog fbrdmc107clrs php a word about the threads it is important to use the right kind you need linen thread for the buttonhole bars they must be strong and durable cotton will fuzz and look messy you could use the same linen thread for the buttonhole stitching around the motif but it looks a bit rough i preferred either the silk or the coton a border with a slight preference for the coton a border tools embroidery frame i used a circular frame because it s easier to hold in my hands but you could also use a slate frame small sharp embroidery scissors for example http www joann com gingher epaulette 3 1 2in embroidery scissors 4655338 html small curved blade scissors for example http www allstitch net product gingher 312 curved blade embroidery scissors 4718 cfm water soluble pen good lighting and maybe magnifier glasses if you are like me steps 1 iron your fabric you ll want to start with it as smooth as possible 2 create a pattern and trace it onto your fabric with the water soluble pen test that pen first to make sure it comes off easily do not use a pattern printed on an inkjet printer and water soluble pen to trace over it the liquid in the pen will cause some of the ink to come off onto your fabric go on ask me how i know this i had to scrap my first yard of fabric because of this mistake my pelican in a laurel wreath pattern 3 put your marked fabric in a frame pay attention to the tension of the fabric tight but not too tight 4 outline your pattern using parallel running stitches set 1 8 apart i liked to sew along the inside edge of my markings and then along outside edge and that usually put my two lines of stitching at about 1 8 apart be careful not to pull these stitches tight as that would pucker the fabric 5 as you are outlining your pattern whenever you reach a point where your pattern calls for a buttonhole bar you should stitch the bar to do this bring your needle up between your parallel lines of running stitches and take it across to the parallel stitching on other side over where the cutout area will be do this three times so you have three threads going across and then begin the detached buttonhole stitching over these three threads until you get back to your original side it s crucial to keep the buttonhole bar from twisting as you work it i found the best way to do this was to work the buttonhole stitching toward me in a consistent manner pulling the stitching tight as i went along this video shows the stitch orientation direction that i refer to https www youtube com watch v 9r637afscs8 6 once your pattern is outlined and all your buttonhole bars in in place you need to stitch around each element that will not be cut out stitch over the two parallel lines usually you can align the bottom of your stitch with the bottom running stitch and the top of your stitch with the top running stitch you ll use the buttonhole stitch again for this but in this case it is not detached and it s important that the flat corded edge of the buttonhole stitch is against the edge that will be cut out do not yet cut out any material that will be done after you complete the buttonhole stitching again do not pull too tightly just pull enough to get clean neat stitching do not be tempted to cut out material first thinking that will make for a cleaner edge while the edge will be cleaner but your stitched edges will ruffle and pucker rather than lay flat and it won t look as good 7 after your buttonhole stitching is complete it s time to cut out the areas of fabric that are stabilized by the buttonhole bars you placed in step 5 using the sharp straight blade scissors carefully cut a line down the center of an area you want to cut out then turn the fabric over and use the curved blade scissors to very carefully cut the fabric away right up to the edge of the stitching i recommend you keep your fabric in your frame as you cut to provide tension and a better view of what you re doing if you cut too close you ll snip the buttonhole threads and you ll need to go back and mend them so cut carefully i did have to mend in a couple spots it s not easy to cut close but not too close with such dense threads and fabric in the photo below you can see areas where i haven t managed to cut away all the threads of the fabric yet 8 when done dampen your fabric to remove any trace of the water soluble pen then wash your piece by hand allow it to air dry inspect your piece for any stray bits of threads at the cut edges and snip them off carefully iron flat tips when creating your pattern you want to place buttonhole bars every 1 2 or so as well as at the tips of pointy bits or they ll just flap about avoid bars across too large of a cutout area instead keep a small bit of fabric there or even an eyelet to stabilize things and give your bars a midpoint to anchor in your buttonhole stitching step 6 does not need to be really close together and in fact if you get it too close it tends to look sloppy try leaving just a thread s width of space in between each stitch and from 10 away it looks neater and just as smooth pay attention to the thread as you pull it off the spool or skein and thread your needle with it the same each time remember thread has a twist and you want consistent results in the same vein be sure to do all your buttonhole stitching in the same direction for a consistent look it really does make a difference apron construction notes i chose to create a flat rectangle style apron rather than one gathered into the waistband so that the cutwork would be displayed to its best advantage i attached the top 2 3 of it to a simple band that served as the belt i hemmed the top and bottom edges with the drawn thread work hemstitch see my tutorial here the right and left edges had threads drawn from them as well but i did not do the same drawnwork hemstitch i just kept it as drawn threads because i liked the look creation notes i did not embroider the blood droplet on the pelican but i bled on the apron while stitching so i think that still counts grin the heart at the top of the motif is from my device a winged heart my soundtrack while working on this was the radio station on fallout 4 gregor got it for christmas and i sat on the couch while he played each evening and the entire audiobook of the martian i estimate this project took 110 hours i mistress crespine i would love to see anything you make please share i m always happy to answer questions feel free to e mail me at genoveva von lubeck at gmail dot com 14th c embriodered bycocket cap of maintenance with a split loop seam tutorial 6 september 2015 comments 2 yesterday i presented a 14th c embroidered bycocket cap of maintenance for master gregoire de lyon on the occasion of his elevation to the order of the pelican i am pleased with how the cap turned out and thus thought it would be a good idea to document it in my blog for future reference both mine and possibly yours in particular i learned a new seam technique and i want to record it here so i do not forget it here s the completed cap of maintenance or cap of high maintenance as master gregoire calls it research the bycocket or chapel à bec as it was known in france was all the rage in the 14th and 15th centuries in northwestern europe but it did continue on sporadically into the 16th century the bycocket shows up frequently in imagery of the time period but my favorite image is found in margin of the decretals of gregory ix c 1300 1340 written in southern france page 40v in the image a man wears a red bycocket with a white lining another favored image with the same hat style and coloring appears in the 1344 painting the effects of good government in the countryside by ambrogio lorenzetti rider on the left note that her brim may be decorated construction the shape of the bycocket looks more complicated than it is it s really just a bowl shaped hat with the brim turned up at an angle i used a wool felt bycocket that gregoire already owned to fine tune the size and shape as that was his preference the resulting pattern looks something like this materials dark red velvet outside layer white linen inside layer white linen canvas interlining for stiffness wool batting interlining for shape and white silk taffeta outside brim layer i used the canvas and wool batting to give the hat some solidity and structure the order of layers from the outside to the inside is as follows velvet wool canvas linen the silk taffeta was whip stitched onto the brim and only the brim in order to leave the white linen as the layer next to the hair at gregoire s request the thought being that it would be a touch cooler and easier to clean additional materials included silk embroidery floss 12 ply splendor thread silk sewing thread gutermann and freshwater pearls embroidery inspiration for the embroidered pelican came from the pienza cope a richly embroidered cape worn by pope pius ii and currently housed in the diocesan museum in pienza the cope dates to 1310 1340 and features a beautifully embroidered orphrey medieval pelican like the original inspiration i used split stitch and couched silk in my embroidery which are some of the stitches used in opus anglicanum style embroidery and as i wanted the e...