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Text of the page (random words):
e it in the photo above when i m side on it seems to hang down at the sides but when measured flat it s even all the way round so i m just going with it it s possibly the heavy and drapey fabric other things to say just that i really love it it s not super practical i chose a wool mix for warmth but the shorter sleeves kind of make that counterproductive plus the wide sleeves don t fit under any of my cardigans or coats so it ends up bunched up and creased still love it though and our office is warm so it s a work top until the proper spring arrives i fully intend to make more of these in stripes more solids maybe a shirting definitely linen possibly a sweatshirt version all the options i am clearly now a fully fledged paper theory fangirl having made all 3 existing patterns hacked lb pullover not yet blogged and i have already acquired the new zadie jumpsuit just trying to decide on weather appropriate fabrics share posted by helen at 20 16 4 comments labels made in 2019 top monday 4 march 2019 completed olya shirt let s talk about stress sewing is it something you do i know that i love sewing for a number of reasons one of which is its ability to destress me it consumes enough of my mental energy to allow me switch off from other stuff whether it be work brexit euan s eczema or the state of my garden i actively seek out sewing as a distraction and a relaxant assuming of course that a project is going well but stress sewing is another matter stress sewing is sewing in response to mega levels of stress and in my case at least results in a far from perfect results unfortunately this shirt was a stress sew i should probably give a bit of background here i mentioned here that i am going through redundancy basically we are getting a new system which will significantly change our ways of working this in turn is driving a restructure my current job won t exist in the new world but there are other jobs i can apply for in the new team elsewhere in the company or i can take redundancy and go a week after finding this out we also found out that paul s job was also under threat of redundancy i had mostly been doing the ostrich impression head in the sand but with half term holidays came time off work and time to think i am feeling all the emotions about my job i anticipated this happening but didn t know to what extent or when the idea of having to apply for a new job is anathema to me i haven t gone through recruitment in over 10 years but what upsets me the most that week is that i will likely lose my flexible working we have loads of flexibility in my current company and role i work 4 days finish slightly early by taking a shorter lunch we get childcare vouchers healthcare an excellent pension and heaps of annual leave i can t guarantee my current shift in any new role so there is a good solid chance i will need to work full time which i know a lot of parents do but it s not what i want to do fraser starts school in august i know and i really want to be able to take him to school at least once a week then chuck in the additional child care requirements both term time and holidays plus what the boys would need to give up i ve never taken working part time as a given but i didn t have children to never see them told you all the feelings while i was off i had a day s sewing to myself while euan was at a bushcraft holiday club and so i started on this shirt emboldened by the success of paul s shirt i know all about shirtmaking now and loving the design lines of the olya as well as having the perfect fabric in the stash made an obvious project and what better time to do than to also support the so50visible challenge the fabric is atelier brunette modal challis it was a limited edition collaboration i think from a couple of years ago its lightweight and very drapey and it feels absolutely gorgeous to wear i actually had it in 2 lengths having first bought a 70cm remnant and then a further metre from a different retailer at another point the 2 lengths are actually slightly different with one having brighter colours and the other being more muted they also feel every so slightly different i guess much like wallpaper fabrics have batches i managed to squeeze the pieces into the 1 7m by cutting the yoke on the cross grain i even had just enough fabric to cut the collar second time which happens when you sew the first one upside down but the rest was minimal scraps firstly let me say this is a great pattern it is well drafted and very clever in design and construction at the front the sleeves and front yoke are one piece but at the back there is a sleeve seam attaching it to the back yoke this requires a very cool right angle on the shoulder which is difficult but satisfying to sew there are also concealed pockets in the seam attaching the front yoke to the front bodice pieces the instructions definitely assume a good sewing ability and are not hand holding at all but there is a sewalong with more details should you require it i d recommend it for the shoulder sleeve seam stress sewing a complex pattern with a slippery slidey fabric was not my best idea but in fairness i didn t actually realise i was stress sewing at first and actually it s not nearly as bad as i first thought my topstitching is dodgy at best but not very noticeable i did sew my first collar upside down but thankfully managed to cut another although it s interfaced in white not black my edge stitching didn t quite catch all the edges but i rescued this with a bit of hand stitching collar stand cuffs and part of the button placket my pockets are a bit messy and i had to do a bit of jiggery pokery to get the sleeve seam to sit right but honestly all issues were as a result of the fabric and stress induced slapdashery rather than the pattern and even more honestly literally none of these things are noticeable in the finished garment it still needs to stand up to repeated washing and wearing but i am absolutely delighted with it i was in between sizes so picked the smallest one the 8 as this is loose fitting generally my waist is the largest size if i am between sizes but the waist is not an issue on this pattern i made no alterations to the pattern other than to use a different method for attaching the collar and to sew the bottom button hole horizontally a trick i picked up from the fairfield i have no idea if this serves a purpose but i liked the idea of it in terms of attaching the collar i used my preferred method which is to attach the outer collar stand separately make up the collar and the inner collar stand then attach them to the outer collar stand better explained here i have tried both methods and this is the only one that works for me i actually forgot about buttons so had sewn most of it up relatively quickly before realising i couldn t do any more till i went shopping it was only when i paused that i realised that i was doing the whole stress sewing thing basically sewing as a distraction distracting me from what i should have been doing which was my cv but in a way that was not careful or particular and was pretty dismissive of the bits that i was recognising were crap as i was sewing them ah well i thought it doesn t matter this after taking such care over paul s shirt all in all this could be better but i love it regardless i do want to invest in some fray check before i wash it as i m nervous about that right angle s ability to survive the washing machine it s sewn in a way that s impossible to completely encase the raw edge as i want this to last i keep stroking myself as i wear it it s just so soft and silky i will definitely make this pattern again i love the idea of stripes or contrast stitching something that really show off the design details in the meantime i am going full paper theory fan girl my next project is the kabuki before i go i wanted to mention a few things firstly paul s job is fine so we are good for the time being at least secondly somewhere along the line i have stopped referring to my boys as their nicknames probably because they are frequently named on instagram and probably because they really have outgrown their nicknames anyway in case you don t follow me there here s a quick key euan small boy and fraser baby boy lastly my hair i decided last year to stop dying my hair there are numerous and various reasons for this which i won t get into but it is something i d been thinking about for a long while it s one of these things that s a gradual change so i did get quite a shock when i saw the photos i took for this post it looks different whiter here than it does in the mirror i m ok with it turning grey white but the inbetween process is a lot more noticeable than i realised i don t really know why i feel the need to explain myself but at least now you know thanks for reading share posted by helen at 11 35 11 comments labels challenges made in 2019 shirt stash busting wednesday 27 february 2019 completed fairfield shirt hello again i took a break from instagram this month which has got me back into reading blogs which in turn has apparently got me writing again it s something i ve been thinking about recently but the writing and the photographing all take time that i often don t have and let s be honest if i have time i prefer to prioritise actual sewing i m not promising anything here this year is going to be a busy one i m at threat of redundancy again and i don t know what that s going to do to my work life balance but let s go with it for now i discovered i have 3 unfinished unpublished posts that i wrote in june july last year plus many other projects finished but not documented but rather than attempt to pick up where i left off i m going to crack on with the first thing i ve made this year a shirt i made this for paul s christmas i know it s late but i had other stuff to sew before christmas and i can t sew in secret from paul anyway so instead i made him a gift voucher promising him a shirt he s been asking me to make him something anything for about 8 years we chose the fairfield shirt by thread theory it was the only pattern i showed him but he liked it so that was good and he chose the fabric with some guidance and only one rule no checks or horizontal stripes that would need matching i had a gift voucher for the dress fabrics company that i didn t actually win but acquired at edinburgh frocktails last year joann won it then gave it to judith who then gave it to me so we had a look there and he found this shirting cotton it s navy with a white pattern which is reminiscent of a sashiko wave pattern although on a much smaller scale paul chose to have mountains rather than waves i wasn t overly convinced about the print on him at first it s quite different to what he normally wears but now it s made up i love it it was also a dream to work with a lovely stable change for someone who regularly tortures herself with drapey shifty frays like mad fabrics i loved making this shirt the fabric probably helped that plus it s just a great pattern with excellent instructions shirt making is so satisfying i ve always enjoyed burritoing a yoke but i also loved the tower sleeve plackets on this my only previous experience of shirt making is the archer which has a bias binding placket and i do not like that at all i will always do proper plackets now that i understand them although i did cut them upside down a stable cotton allowed me to be pretty precise as there are some very small sas on this pattern this was also my first experience of flat felled seams which were fine and slightly more straightforward than i expected although that could be because the pattern is drafted to have them with sas offset in all the relevant places there were a few things i found odd about the pattern some notches that didn t match anything for instance and i also found one of the notches on the button placket to be wrong the pattern says it s a x seam allowance but the notch is at the y mark can t be bothered to get up and check sorry i just ignored the notch and measured it myself i also didn t like the constantly changing seam allowances i understand why the pattern is written like that and have no alternative suggestions but i find it hard to switch back and forth and as a result sewed more than one seam with the wrong sa which then had to be ripped out in terms of the pattern he chose the darts at the back but no sleeve tabs he did want the sleeve tabs and i made them and attached them but they didn t look right so i persuaded him to remove them they would be better on a summer version i think i made no fit adjustments to this and it s not bad at all paul has narrow shoulders so i do need to alter the pattern here a bit but its no worse than a rtw shirt he must also have slightly short arms as often shirt sleeves are too long but he was happy with the length of them on this shirt the collar is too tight even though the measurements of the s matched his but he won t do the top button up anyway so no biggie we made the size small i had some real pattern matching wins on this i made no attempt to match them at all other than the breast pocket yet the sewing gods were clearly smiling on me with the collar matching the yoke which in turn matches the shirt back look at my pattern matching i added a few design details in the form of a red button hole and the button also attached with red thread it s a nice touch which i stole from rtw and also jen a success paul loves it and i can t get over how much it looks like an actual shirt i do realise that s a stupid thing to think and write i make my own clothes all the time and they look like real clothes but and i don t know if it s the fact that this is a shirt or if it s because it s for someone else this is somehow different i might even make him another share posted by helen at 22 01 3 comments labels made in 2019 sewing for others shirt wednesday 2 may 2018 me made may 2018 well it s here again already can you believe it i m just dropping in to say that i am participating in me made may again this year i ve pledged to wear as many handmade garments as possible each day realistically this will probably only be a maximum of 2 but there might be the odd day when i can manage a third i d also like to take the opportunity to assess some of my makes and figure out why i don t wear them if there is anything i can do to change that or if not what i ll do with them i also want to figure out handmade wardrobe gaps finally i need to do some mending and i d like to make a pair of jeans or another pair of trousers but we ll see on that last one i ll try to do periodic round up posts but you can see all my goings on on instagram grosgraingreen are you joining in this year what s your pledge share posted by helen at 21 23 no comments labels me made may 18 plans thursday 12 april 2018 trouser inspo it won t have escaped your notice that i ve been sewing trousers recently here and here and i have just finished another ...