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stew sólet the yiddish cholent was served with a either a goose leg or a slice of smoked pork loin matzoh ball soup was served alongside lung stewed in cream sauce it was the kind of nostalgia that would in say the 1960s comfort a middle aged jewish party functionary who had survived both the holocaust and stalinism and wanted lunch in his old neighborhood when visiting his grandma living nearby kádár served classic hungarian food which cloaked the jewish identity of dishes like sólet a traditional sabbath meal in both ashkenazic and sephardic culture and much like the spanish jewish cuisine of the post 1492 era it was gloriously unkosher extra helpings of lard and pork innards help to keep the inquisitors away sólet with roast goose leg in 2025 i ll cut to the chase the new kádár is good go there but it is new and it is not exactly the same as the old place they have only been open for a couple of weeks and there was an incredible pr campaign surrounding its opening so one can expect a few bumps and growing pains but it shows promise the menu is pretty limited they are just starting and running a full house every day so they will need time to finesse their repetoire go to their website and make reservations beforehand it is really popular right now the old kádár had a regular menu and then a page of changing daily specials the sólet was offered only on friday and saturdays today sólet is the star of the show not surprising since few other hungarian restaurants offer it at all but but but it was a bit too cheffy a plate of quasi semitic beans and bird will never be haut cuisine but the old sólet presented as a savory mess of dense bean mud and goose fat begging to be shoveled into your gaping maw offering the promise that you would never ever be hungry again this version however was a dish of identifiable beans in a sauce it was good but it needs to sit around long enough to mature congeal solidify pre digest sólet in 2014 with horseradish beet salad compare the old sólet not an errant drop of moisture to be seen and more than the beans i ordered the horseradish beet salad for our lunch it came without horseradish i saw a strand or two of horseradish in the beets but the old style dish was a mound of violently pungent fresh ground horseradish that ripped your nostrils and left you gasping for air maybe the kitchen is worried that their modern clientele can t handle the crowd control quality of the old dish old kádár goose meatloaf on sólet one of the subtexts that identified kádár as a secret jewish restaurant and one that was specifically native to klauzál tér was it use of goose klauzál tér park was once an open air market divided into two halves the side along nagy diofa utca was kosher and specialized in selling goose goose provided the grease of hungarian jewish cuisine hungarian cuisine is based on cooking with pork lard klauzál tér in 1896 károly gundel the famed chef whose restaurant in the city park bears his name opened his classic hungarian cookbook with the lines hungarian cooking always begins with onions cooked in lard jews substituted goose fat this was in the days before vegetable oil and olive oil was still stuff you could only get in the south balkans or italy over the decades in face of social forces including assimilation mass annihilation and anti semitism hungarian jews adopted more and more hungarian eating customs including an increasing tolerance for pork in this neighborhood however kosher butchers and restaurants maintained a strong clientele with several establishments that catered like the kádár and the fülemüle to an odd chimera of hungarian and jewish cooking the unkosher jewish restaurant and thus the demand for goose meat and fat was centered into the seventh and eighth districts of budapest as i often did in the olden days i ordered ludaskása which is essentially goose bits in rice pilav kádár ludaskása today the kádár went through a lot of goose it roasted the legs ground the breast meat into its goose meatloaf and roasted the carcasses to provide a base for stock ludaskása was a dense pilav like dish of goosebits soup veg and rice dense and wet extremely filling and fatty i did enjoy the ludaskása we had last week but it was something made by somebody who had imagined it as some sort of risotto the rice light and fluffy a few bits of goose guts floating around in there and worst of all i was hungry when i finished it this never happened with the old version let me illustrate why with a few photographs of a serving of the old ludaskása kádár ludaskása circa 2016 that was a small serving of ludaskása there were about three goose wings stacked on top of a mound of rice fumie and i would drop into kádár on wednesdays and order a takeout of two servings of ludaskása to go they would just drop a whole roast goose carcasse on top of a box of pilav and we would take it home to strip the meat off the goose bones we would eat our pilav of ludaskása and then boil the bones for more stock add some rice and the excess goose meat and make an entire fresh pot of more ludaskása for the rest of the week as a mixed jewish and japanese household we can eat a lot of rice ludaskása to go in olden times yes i know that was then this is now i am not criticizing the new kádár for not distributing whole animal carcasses to go or for not poisoning the clients with weapons grade horseradish but gerendai the owner of the new kádár is also the founder of the michelin starred budapest costes restaurant and the kitchen staff are rumored to have come from that temple of fine dining i suspect that there may be a few erudite theories of cuisine development percolating in the background of the chef s notebooks here as we say in the backwaters of trumpistan it seems that perhaps they are overthinking a plate of beans as an old time alumnus of the kádár we didn t go there for a culinary experience we went there for lunch we didn t go to the kádár to dine we went to eat the late s á ndor orb á n former owner and soul of the kádár and i will add that i did not try either of the desserts offered both of which were huge portions of either sweet poppy seed noodles or vanilla sauce bread pudding they looked great though and the prices were actually quite fair for all of the dishes and yes i will return again expecting time to iron out all the bumps and boo boos that go with opening a new old restaurant whichever direction the new kádár goes in it is a welcome addition to the local food scene it is making a genuine effort to keep alive the standards and accomplishment of the former owner the legendary s á ndor orb á n who passed away earlier this year real hungarian food has become harder and harder to find especially in the downtown and particularly in the heavily touristic seventh district welcome back kádár étkezde posted by dumneazu at 8 04 am 1 comment email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest thursday august 28 2025 subotica serbia train to nowhere no summer is complete without a jaunt south to the balkan lands after a few months at home in budapest s 7th district the underage tourist drinking capital of europe a trip to the balkans even just to cross the border is a tonic a breath of fresh air there is an electricity simply to being in the balkans central europe as hungary likes to style itself combines the dour moralism of protestant europe with an east european how many of us does it take to change a light bulb approach to technology the balkans and i am specifically addressing serbia in the post is like crossing into a strange mirror world where light bulbs are a privilege not a right the balkans wear its traditions on its sleeve budapest is so modern so european so expensive so cross the border easily marked by a razor wire fence erected in 2015 when viktor orban was gleefully making a name as the troll king protecting white christian europe from the brown hordes of refugees from the middle east a warm and welcoming hello hungarian serbian border the border has been quiet for the last decade almost too quiet serbia however has been rocked by huge street protests against the 11 year rule of prime minister alexander vucic a populist who cozies up to orban and licks putin s dainty parts and plays the serb nationalist card close to his chest vucic and orban have been involved in the building of china s belt and road railway system a multi billion dollar chinese commie fantasy scam of railways and ports that will provide chinese car batteries and labubus to hungry consumers in the eu there have been glitches long story short there is no railway service in northern serbia anymore and won t be for a while this is a pub actually not the train to szeged the lethal collapse of the novi sad railway station on nov 1 2024 led to mass protests which have continued to peak this summer with mass demonstrations in belgrade novi sad and other cities in which protesters were often met with violence from thugs and hooligans organized by forces close to vucic big infrastructure projects are to political corruption like shit to flies in the burning summer sun there are chinese workers squatting around the unopened subotica railway station chipping at concrete with hammers and the station itself is closed for safety reasons the budapest belgrade railway which has already officially opened three times is now predicted to run by around 2028 for now there are no trains onward towards serbia from here sorry luckily there is a two car tram train that can get you from szeged to subotica twice a day but beyond that you are on your own subotica szabadka in hungarian just next to the hungarian border is the main city of the bacska region of the vojvodina the northern province of serbia that was a multi ethnic autonomous region of old yugoslavia although serbs comprise the majority in the province in many places the ethnic mix even after the yugoslav civil wars of the 1990s remains a diverse cultural patchwork of languages and local traditions that seems to have forged a tolerance that evades many other regions of eastern europe subotica is nearly half hungarian with a large minority of bunyevac a catholic croatian sub group that has native to the region long enough to claim its dialect as a separate language in the municipality by chance we arrived during the weekend of the bunyevac harvest festival duzijanca every evening crowds would gather near the central square to listen to tamburica bands and marvel at the hay sculptures folk dance groups from the villages showed up and people contentedly traipsed up dawn the streets chatting and visiting the classic balkan corso the evening social stroll i can only take so much tamburica music an aversion dating to my days playing in balkan bands in the usa i prefer funkier less harmonious music as in gaida on saturday at least serbian gypsy brass bands gathered outside the city hall to rent themselves out to wedding parties the city hall itself is worth seeing tours are given daily by showing up exactly at noon at the main entrance subotica was once one of the most important cities in the kingdom of hungary a role that shrank after the region was made part of serbia after world war one just before the first world war hungary of which subotica was then a part had gulled itself into believing in a glorious pan danubian hapsburg future and grand architectural statements like the budapest parliament and the subotica city hall are testaments to the dashed dreams of that briefly optimistic era city hall square during subotica s glory days local architects built dozens of gob smackingly beautiful art nouveau palaces and city buildings during the communist era a lot of these were demolished to modernize the city center but the remaining ones define the look of subotica our hapsburg connections city hall subotica indeed the entire vojvodina was once home to a large jewish community who were apparently doing rather well from trade at the end of the 19th century the subotica synagogue built in 1908 is without a doubt the most gorgeous shul i have ever been in and i have been in a lot them photo by fumie suzuki taken from the tower of city hall designed by two local architects dezső jakab and marcell komor who idolized the budapest jewish architect liport baumhorn they applied their taste to the city hall office and many other local buildings as well and then came the first world war the hapsburg defeat and the trianon treaty little did they realize at the time that the busy mercantile center of subotica would soon become a dusty border town albeit with some spectacular buildings the synagogue alone is worth the trip to subotica even if you are not jewish the motifs reflect the hungarian neolog jewish sentiment of the late 1800s an embrace of hungarian cultural identity al0ngside jewish religion following the german reform model the stained glass work alone is astounding motifs from hungarian folk design adorn the ceilings alongside some decidedly bunyevac designs as well probably not by licit intention of the artists the real reason we went to subotica is to eat on fumie s birthday we were thinking of going to one of the few places in budapest still serving cevapcici and we realized that we could take a train to subotica stay over night and eat cevapi for about the same price as dining out in budapest so we did if you like meat you will like serbia cevapi cevapcici meatwads call them what you will they are good down in serbia they are even better in bosnia but the vojvodina became home to thousands of bosnian serb refugess after the bosnian war in the 1990s replacing about 60 000 local croats but not the bunyevac its complicated and bringing the bosnian obsession with little tubes of grilled meat with them a master at work ilijanska cevapi perhaps the best cevapi we found was at the ilijanska cevap house a tiny place across the street from the synagogue ilijia is the western bit of sarajevo now in republika srpska territory and i have eaten cevap in ilidja itself and the customers at this hole in the wall all assured me these were the best in subotica these cevapi are the reason we will be returning to subotica in the near future they were spot on the somon bread are baked in a pizza oven just as the cevapai are tossed on the grill and the whole things is slathered in butter as it comes out of the oven at one point a customer ordered a pleskavica the serbian analog of a hamburger it was constructed from a slab of ground meat and onions literally the size of a pizza burek near the flea market burek is the breakfast of choice in the balkans and subotica again has several burek bakeries that make theirs using the old fashioned bosnian sac method a retro baked in the coals technique that was inherited directly from the turks the sac burek place on the road just before you get to the flea market is the best in town we tried all of them they were out of meat burek when we arrived so we we...