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description=Jo sews - and, among other things, blogs about it.;

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t s all down to that shape that grabbed me in the first place these trousers are wide and pleated and culotte ish in perfect balance there is no bulk where it s not needed but just the right amount of fabric to skim down from the waist into those deliciously wide but not too wide legs i mean look at those lovely pleats and the back view is not bad either having learned from previous trouser sewing experiments i carried out a flat seat adjustment on these which i think makes a good deal of difference if there was too much more fabric there the back legs wouldn t drape nearly as nicely small things but important the method i used was from this book which i find absolutely invaluable often the methods it describes are different and frequently simpler than most tutorials online and in fact i wanted to link to a version of how i did it for this post but couldn t find one so if there s any interest in a quick tutorial for an easy flat bum adjustment let me know and i ll post it the main thing to note about the fit of this pattern is that as we have come to expect from the big 4 pattern companies it comes up large where it should be more fitted i chose my size based on my waist and hip measurements and it s not far off being just right but the pattern does explicitly state that the culottes are designed to sit 1 above the natural waist and the finished waist measurement has 1 ease above the actual body measurement but as one can clearly see here these neither reach my natural waist let alone 1 higher because there is a lot more than 1 ease these didn t turn out a lot too big but big enough to not be wearable because they just wouldn t stay put time for some ninja fixing skills while i had been quite looking forward to wearing proper trousers with a zip for once y know like a grown up resorting to elastic as usual was the obvious remedy i realise now that i haven t blogged all the trousers i usually wear but yes elastic waists everywhere so i made an elastic casing by topstitching the trousers to the facing at 2cm below the waistline leaving gaps of 3cm either side of the centre back zip i then fed my elastic through and secured it to the zip seam allowance on either side to hold it in place stitched the gaps closed and that was it waist brought in nicely and i actually think the resulting trousers are better this way than if they had fit properly to begin with they re certainly more comfortable but because the elastic is only a few cm longer than the waistband itself there s no bunching or gathering they still hang as smoothly as if they were properly more closely fitted win yes i like them very much not that you can tell from my facial expressions but we ve already established that i m giving up on those these pictures are just me swishing and swooshing my culottes around hoping you can tell how fab they are make no mistake these culottes are fab go sew yourselves some you radiant people follow posted by jo h at 16 06 00 no comments labels sewing wearing saturday 2 june 2018 morgan jeans greco tee plain and simple ok so having gone on about how great the iphone camera is i m not sure what happened to make these pics come out all grainy but i m not re doing them and actually i think that s entirely appropriate to the makes themselves low key laid back basically clothes for lazy days off in keeping with the whole theme here you also have me posing without even having blow dried or tied up my hair today we are doing the very casualest possible thank you very much and it turned out with the onset of my very first migraine ugh so let s start wth the jeans shall we these are a pair of morgan jeans that i made two years ago at the time this was a big deal they were the first pair of jeans i had ever made in fact the first pair of trousers that weren t stretchy hudson pants i think so there was quite a bit of nervousness about the both the fitting and the sewing processes being more involved than i was used to by the way yes still struggling to coordinate photo taking posture with photo appropriate face no longer struggling with whether to care i shall just post them anyway you ll be able tell when i ve lost all remaining self consciousness when i stop even mentioning it of course by now you ve probably read approx 1 zillion blog posts about the greatness of closet case patterns jeans sewing instructions and yes i was pleasantly surprised to find that sewing jeans wasn t isn t difficult even allowing for sewing machine uncooperativeness when it comes to buttonholes as many others before me have found it was even rather enjoyable especially because at the end one has made one s own jeans so as far as the sewing process was concerned no problem on the fit however i stumbled slightly i wasn t so lazy as to avoid making a muslin but i was lazy enough to not bother attaching the waistband to it before deciding on my adjustments and i also didn t factor in that my denim had considerably more give than the upholstery fabric i muslined with with the first wear of the final jeans it became abundantly clear that not only could should i have gone down a size but also that i really didn t need to faff around shortening the front crotch at all see those drag lines and that s with me wearing these jeans as low slung as possible even then the waistband is all bunched up under my belt plus that s a hell of a lot of extra fabric in the bum area too i ve since come to the realisation that i tend to need a flat butt adjustment on most trouser patterns but i also think that for the non stretch morgan jeans sizing down and allowing the fabric to bag out a bit with wear is definitely the way to go in real life though where for better or worse no one tends to be looking that closely at either my front or back crotch it s hardly a disaster i have been wearing these jeans solidly for the last two summers and it s fine even if they can t really be paired with tees any shorter than this for the sake of covering up the fit issues the denim isn t super heavy so they re ideal trousers for mid temperature weather and at time of making it was a real relief to switch back to non skinny jeans again plus i love the cropped length and look of them with the turn ups so yay for morgan jeans i did immediately make another pair in linen actually but they just came out of the wash and need ironing and i wasn t going to do that just for blog photos so you ll just have to imagine them they re grey and the fabric came from ikea they have the same fit issues but worse because linen anyway on to the t shirt i think we can all agree that the ideal t shirt pattern is an elusive beast essentially because we would never be able to agree on what the ideal t shirt pattern actually is everyone s ideal tee looks different however this one comes pretty close to mine and bonus points because it s free this is the greco tee by ensemble patterns as you can see it s a loose fitting scoop neck t shirt the pattern comes with a couple of options straight or curved hem short or cuffed sleeves i went for the curved hem and cuffed sleeves the pattern notes mention that you can get different effects using different types of fabric the less drapy your fabric the boxier your tee and in fact i made three of these t shirts in three cotton jerseys with varying lycra content this orange one is the drapiest and stretchiest and has turned out to be my favourite to wear plus orange the others are a shade too boxy for me something i never thought i d say even though neither of the fabrics are particularly stiff perhaps sizing down for a slightly closer fit in less stretchy fabrics would be a good idea anyway overall the proportions of the greco are exactly what i want from a t shirt i don t have much else to say about it than that i hadn t come across any other t shirt patterns that quite fit the bill so this one plugged a gap there perfectly another good thing the pattern pdf is available in a0 format as well as a4 so i splashed out and had my local printshop print it for me i usually don t as they charge 6 50 euros per a0 sheet but this pattern is all on one page and i figured i could handle the cost this once given that i hadn t paid anything for the pattern itself these days i m increasingly feeling that life time is just too short to spend it sticking together patterns tiled on a4 and will just choose printed patterns wherever i can but there are still plenty of patterns available in pdf format only and at that price having the local printshop do it isn t really a permanent option so i ve been extremely pleased to recently have discovered patternsy who will print large format pdfs or even tile a4s together if you re prepared to pay a bit more on excellent quality heavy tissue paper and ship it to you at top speed at exceptionally reasonable prices even factoring in shipping to europe they re based in the uk given that pdf only patterns are usually slightly cheaper than paper patterns the total cost of having patternsy do my printing doesn t usually come to more than i d have been prepared to pay for a paper pattern in the first place all round win right so there we are i think i ve said all that i possibly can about this most basic of outfits and almost certainly more than was strictly necessary byeeeee follow posted by jo h at 20 18 00 no comments labels sewing saturday 19 may 2018 green linen archer blog comeback yo guys i m back here s a shirt i made this is my second archer shirt in fact i think it s the second button up collared shirt i ve made myself ever the first was ages ago when archer shirts were a new and exciting thing and the whole blogworld was making them and i thought i d join in even though i hadn t worn a shirt for about 20 years and the ones worn 20 years previously had basically encapsulated everything that was awful about dressing oneself as a teenager in the 1990s needless to say although i liked my first archer very much in theory it didn t actually get a lot of wear i suspect the plaid flannel was a bit too close to teenage me for comfort this one comes from a different place a place where archer shirts have been around for yonks and are actually a bit boring in blogging terms these days i suspect but you re still reading this right so we re good i am now also slightly less influenceable by what all the cool kids on instagram are making or at least less immediately so i ll have been lurking whatever the algorithm shows me for quite a while before i finally give in and buy that hot new pattern from 6 months ago so when i found myself needing long sleeved lightweight shirts to take on holiday to jordan over easter this year i found myself thinking hey i already have a great pattern for that and promptly went shopping for linen this rather lovely forest green stuff comes from berger my reliable go to source of solid basics it was 7 5 euros a meter which is a pretty good price for a perfectly good linen i think it was a bit stiff to begin with and softened up a little in the pre wash but it was on washing the finished shirt that it really started to break in and it s just been getting softer and lusher ever since to the point that i have been falling steadily more in love with this shirt every time i wash it i really love it it has no 1990s overtones at all in fact i m greatly enjoying the rather 70s vibes it gives off aided dramatically by pairing it with some deliciously high waisted and wide legged jeans i got recently in h m which i probably do more than i should i don t care other construction stuff it s view a without the butt ruffle i did my usual no dart fba lengthened the shirt body by 6cm and shortened the sleeves by 2 i followed the pattern directions but found myself wishing i had used marilla walker s method for attaching and finishing the collar as detailed in her isca dress pattern which by the way i must also tell you about sometime soon i love that dress because i found it more straightforward in getting a nice tidy finish right now unfortunately i can t remember the difference except that i found marilla s version way less fiddly when closing up all the seams but if i go away to look it up this post will never get published also while we re on technical details i just got a remote for my phone camera having swapped to an iphone after years on android and these two things combined mean that taking pictures for potential blog posts is now way easier because a i always have my phone to hand b the iphone camera is shit hot so the pics don t really need editing and c i can therefore just upload them when i m on the metro or whatever so who knows maybe i will actually tell you about that isca dress sometime soon nonetheless making appropriate faces for blog pictures remains a challenge anyway as is the way with holiday sewing i finished making this the evening before departure except that i hadn t done the buttonholes i tremendously dislike buttonholes not because i am afraid of them but because despite all the sweet talking cajoling and downright bullying i have thrown at it over the years my sewing machine remains a bitch that refuses to sew a functional buttonhole if it can so much as smell an adjacent seam allowance no matter how trimmed or graded but then i had a brainwave somewhere like amman would of course have tailors who could sew them on the spot i texted my sister who lives there and who hosted and holidayed with us to confirm my hunch and went to sleep having happily avoided an obsessive pre flight sewing all nighter two days later we found the downtown tailoring district easily enough located a man available right then and proceeded to have the following conversation me it just needs buttonholes where i ve marked with the pins sister and tailor discuss in arabic sister to me is it a man s shirt or a woman s shirt me it s for me more discussion sister he says it s wrong me i know that s because i sewed the placket on the wrong side by accident sister what s a placket me explains sister and tailor more discussion rather intense sister it doesn t make sense me but i don t actually care which side the buttonholes are on anyway repeat from about 4 or 5 times me ok tell him it s a man s shirt sister tells him it s a man s shirt tailor rolls eyes tells us to come back in an hour sister and me leave feeling a bit sheepish needless to say this shirt has the best buttonholes of any garment i have ever made and probably of any garment i will ever make in the future too now i want an industrial sewing machine that can be relied upon to power through all the seams in all the things at top speed but the husband is sadly not on board mainly because this would involve either an extra item of furniture or cutting a hole in one we already possess spoilsport this picture didn t really come out as intended but is essentially the exact image of myself i have at work when adding people to my daily list of fools as in i don t suffer them gladly i am totally super profess...