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off the presses skip to main skip to sidebar tuesday december 18 2012 the hidden history of the harvey wallbanger first of all i should say that i never intended to uncover the history of the harvey wallbanger the journey by which i became obsessed with discovering the origins of the popular 1970s cocktail began when in last 2010 an editor at the daily the now defunct tablet newspaper contacted me and asked if i had any interesting angles on cocktail stories i thought for a bit and said i had always been curious about the little known 1950s 1960s bartender donato duke antone if you believed what you read he was the author of the harvey wallbanger the rusty nail the white russian and many more yet no one really knew anything about him and now at least at that time a year and a half ago the wallbanger was beginning to enjoy a rebirth why not profile antone they bit so i started my research and soon learned that beyond the harvey wallbanger s wikipedia page there wasn t much out there about antone i quizzed several knowledgable bartenders they said they assumed antone invented the drink in the 1950s but admitted they didn t know much beyond that i then contacted the people at galliano they were interested in antone as well but amazingly had no records regarding the history of their liqueur s greatest claim to fame i began to suspect that i was on a wild goose chase that antone was yet another cocktail myth cooked up a bar somewhere in the misty past and given the weight of truth through constant retelling then i happened upon an obituary of the man published in the hartford courant this proved antone had lived it led to several other articles in the courant soon the trail grew hot and i began to piece together a history both of the bartender and the drink my article was no longer about antone however i was determined to get to the bottom of the harvey wallbanger story and with a graceful assist late in the game from david wondrich who had begun digging into the wallbanger story in summer 2011 i think i have there was a problem about getting the story out there however by the time i had my copy ready for publication in late february 2011 the daily was having problems my editor hemmed and hawed but finally cut me loose saying they didn t have the money for the piece the daily ceased publication on dec 15 i turned to a well respected historic food magazine whose print version ended a few years ago but which lives on as an on line presence i had enjoyed the depth and breadth of its articles in the past they happily seized on the article and sent me a contract and then sat of the piece for ten months my original editor left another one came in edited the story with me and then left as well finally a third editor casually informed me that the article would not run due to space limitations on line publications do realizes they are afforded infinite space don t they again i scramble to find harvey a home to my lasting gratitude the fine folks as saveur gladly took it on and published it dec 14 you can read the article here however it is in a slight truncated form if you want to get the whole story here is the copy in its unabridged form read more posted by robert simonson our man in the liquor soaked trenches new york times at 6 37 am no comments labels donato antone harvey wallbanger friday november 23 2012 mixologist of the month mike lay the mixologist of the month columns in wine enthusiast often cause me to chat with bartenders i wouldn t otherwise which is a good thing for this edition i found out a thing or two about the way mike lay does business at restaurant 1833 out in monterey read more posted by robert simonson our man in the liquor soaked trenches new york times at 1 46 pm no comments labels mike lay wine enthusiast wednesday november 21 2012 bill s reborn as bill s i was among those who were not thrilled when the landlord of the midtown manhattan building that held the old bar bill s gay nineties decided to end the owner s lease cutting down the former speakeasy s 88 year life at a new york watering hole bill s food and drink the much tonier replacement opened for business this week following an extensive renovation of the old townhouse it s not bill s gay nineties but is does retain some aspects of the old joint as i found in this new york times starter column read more posted by robert simonson our man in the liquor soaked trenches new york times at 1 34 pm no comments labels bill s food and drink bill s gay nineties tuesday november 20 2012 boite dear bushwick the thursday style section of the new york times has a lovely running column called boite in which a new bar is profiled in a series of piquant bullet points i ve always admired it recently i got to write one here it is read more posted by robert simonson our man in the liquor soaked trenches new york times at 1 27 pm no comments labels cocktails dear bushwick natasha david wednesday november 14 2012 thanksgiving cocktails not so new an idea i used to think that the notion of a pre feast thanksgiving cocktail was a relatively recent notion the product of our cocktail crazy times not so doing some research for this article turned up a number of old articles that proved that the question what to drink before thanksgiving was a question mulled by americans as far back as the late 1800s one pre prohibition article from the cleveland plain dealer stated of course you re going to have a cocktail at thanksgiving such confidence here s my article in the new york times fall s flavors come in a new glass by robert simonson thanksgiving and cocktails are not as odd a match as you might think both are distinctly american and have been long thought so back in 1929 a reporter for the chicago tribune waxing indignant at the notion that the french had invented the cocktail wrote every one knows that it is as authentically american as griddle cakes and sweet salads and pumpkin pie still downing a bluntly spiritous drink just before you sit down to that pumpkin pie or other heavy holiday fare is not a smart move bright and balanced is the order of the day and it is one easily filled by today s generation of mixologists who regularly compound ingredients to harmonize with a specific occasion and season seasonal is an important idea a pre turkey tipple ideally performs a secondary function as an aesthetic sensory signpost instilling all the flavors associated with fall and harvest into a single cup that symbolic function was partly on the mind of julie reiner the owner of clover club on smith street in brooklyn when she recently created the crystal fall for the bar s autumn menu i wanted it to be the quintessential fall cocktail the kind of thing with all the flavors that you just expect this time of year ms reiner said apple spice ginger to portions of toasty cognac rich demerara rum and nutty sherry she added fresh apple cider lemon juice ginger syrup sugar and bitters served over a tumbler of crushed ice the drink is simultaneously warming and cooling and despite the fairly heavy liquor payload surprisingly light at clover club s neighbor the jakewalk the bar manager timothy miner achieved his particular liquid orchard by using as a base laird s bonded apple brandy perhaps one of the most american of spirits if using domestic produce on the fourth thursday of november is important to you he added cinnamon syrup lemon juice galliano liqueur and a couple of dashes of allspice liqueur the drink is topped with freshly ground nutmeg i grew up in new england mr miner said i have a strong affinity to apple picking and all that i thought i wonder if i can make apple pie in a glass the drink called mr october tastes not only like apple pie but apple pie à la mode thanks to galliano s vanilla notes if these drinks seem a bit too complex or modern you can go colonial and surpassingly simple in one stroke by pouring a stone fence this centuries old concoction is nothing more than two ounces of whatever dark liquor you choose rye bourbon scotch applejack rum filled out with hard cider and served over ice easier than gravy posted by robert simonson our man in the liquor soaked trenches new york times at 10 22 am no comments friday november 9 2012 genever by the barrel cocktail bars that have their own private barrel of whiskey personally selected by the owners from a distillery in kentucky have become a dime a dozen but if you suddenly start seeing bars with their own barrel of genever you can blame boston based mixologist jackson cannon cannon is a persistent fellow after years of nudging the uncomprehending lucas bols he got them to part with one of their casks he know uses the juice to make drinks in his three boston bars as a result of determination bols has seen the light they company is now open to rolling out personal barrels for other receptive taverns here s the story read more posted by robert simonson our man in the liquor soaked trenches new york times at 10 29 am no comments thursday november 8 2012 drinking history i am a considerably more educated man today than i was a month ago when i started doing research for this article since that time i ve sampled a 1950s chartreuse a few blended scotches from the 1960s a few gins from the 1940s and 50s a cognac from the 60s a creme de menthe from the 1940s bourbons from the 60s 70s and 80s and even an aged vermouth conclusion of all this learning the old saw that spirits don t change once bottled is nonsense they grow softer more rounded more integrated even more untrue is the notion put forth by nearly every liquor company on earth that they have made the same product year in and year out the assertion is not only improbable but impossible improbable because recipes alter with changing times and changing tastes not to mention adjusted quality standards impossible because no company has consistent access to the exact same grains and botanicals we live in a time of great across the board quality in spirits still based on what i sipped it does seem that some things were done better in the past the creme de menthe did not taste chemical as its counterparts of today do it was fresh and clean it tasted like something well you d want to drink i like gordon s gin it s a fine workhorse london dry gin but the specimen from the 50s i had was fuller and much more interesting and the 60s hennessy i savored had a restraint and dignity that one no longer finds in the sugar bomb major label cognacs of today i wish i could drink more of this stuff but at 150 a drink it s a pricey habit here s my article from the new york times read more posted by robert simonson our man in the liquor soaked trenches new york times at 11 17 am no comments labels cocktails experimental cocktail club nicholas de soto pouring ribbons salvatore calabrese troy sidle vintry older posts home subscribe to posts atom about me robert simonson our man in the liquor soaked trenches new york times brooklyn new york robert simonson writes about spirits cocktails and wine for such publications as the new york times imbibe edible brooklyn and manhattan wine spectator wine enthusiast and gq he holds an advanced certificate from the wine and spirits education trust and another from the beverage alcohol resource he was nominated for 2012 spirited award for best cocktail writing follow him on twitter robertosimonson view my complete profile follow robertosimonson blog archive 2012 64 december 1 the hidden history of the harvey wallbanger november 8 october 3 september 2 august 2 july 7 june 7 may 5 april 6 march 6 february 8 january 9 2011 126 december 6 november 6 october 7 september 10 august 10 july 6 june 12 may 14 april 10 march 11 february 17 january 17 2010 293 december 13 november 24 october 21 september 34 august 26 july 21 june 21 may 32 april 28 march 31 february 19 january 23 2009 217 december 15 november 25 october 28 september 28 august 16 july 20 june 19 may 17 april 12 march 13 february 9 january 15 2008 146 december 13 november 16 october 12 september 13 august 4 july 21 june 9 may 13 april 10 march 14 february 8 january 13 2007 132 december 10 november 11 october 16 september 15 august 9 july 30 june 15 may 9 april 13 march 4 alcademics alice fiering beachbum berry chuck cowdery blog cocktalians diner s journal ny times dr bamboo dr vino drink boy eater gumbo pages imbibe jamie goode s wine blog kaiser penguin ny barfly sloshed the art of drink the cocktail chronicles the pour trader tiki vinography wine blog watch contact me damn good cocktails albino old fashioned tad carducci bar celona amaro zombie frank cisneros bourgeoise pig l americain experimental cocktail club benton s old fashioned don lee pdt carondelet maks pazuniak maison premiere cherry fix with rum sasha petraske lambs club celery nori don lee momofuku ssam bar division bell phil ward mayahuel earl grey marteani audrey saunders pegu club fernando employees only gin gin mule audrey saunders pegu club gold rush t j siegel milk honey the 90 day sour sother teague rye williamsburg trinidad sour giuseppe gonzalez imperial silver corn fizz jim meehan the laphroaig project owen westman bourbon and branch the paddington david slape pdt penicillin sam ross milk honey piña colada richard boccato and giuseppe gonzalez painkiller the prime meats old fashioned damon boelte prime meats salt ash maks pazuniak the counting room situation greg seider summit star and garter leo robitschek nomad