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preferred it to be stronger and for the spicy and smoky attributes to be much more commanding overall it s an interesting fragrance which severely fails to live up to the accompanying press release if it was richer and lived up to one s original expectations it would have received at least an extra star posted by trebor labels mona di orio two star reviews cadavre exquis by bruno fazzolari antonio gardoni year 2016 notes camphor blood orange dried fruits star anise cypress marigold ylang ylang benzoin vanilla chocolate civet comment cadavre exquis is a limited edition release cadavre exquis is a collaboration between bruno fazzolari and bogue profumo s antonio gardoni inspired by a surrealist parlour game from the 1920s during the game the players take turns adding words or images to a composition or in this case accords completely unaware of what the other participants have added until the very end with the pre agreed olfactory theme being a gourmand like the game the final result for antonio and bruno was unpredictable and surprising the opening is both dusty and camphorous with a prominent coupling of chocolate and patchouli waiting in the wings one also discerns star anise which heightens the dark cacao effect with suggestive fruity flourishes of a dried or stewed nature the composition gradually becomes less gritty and noticeably warmer courtesy of the discreet serving of vanilla benzoin and florals but it s the undercurrent of civet that really grabs one s attention accentuating a caramelised floral sweetness while providing a sultry animalic edge to the proceedings resting on what appears to be a subdued foundation of sweet woods it s a very successful excursion from two perfumers who previously hadn t ventured into gourmand territory however based on the finished product one feels that antonio s olfactory style shines through more than bruno s in addition both projection and tenacity could have been more substantial nevertheless what saves the day is the positively unorthodox approach and a generous serving of civet but it s good to know that genuine creativity in niche perfumery is still alive and well posted by trebor labels bogue profumo bruno fazzolari bruno fazzolari antonio gardoni four star reviews baraonda by nasomatto year 2016 notes whiskey lactone phenyl ethanol ambroxan ambrettolide exaltolide muscone blamage is the final fragrance for the nasomatto line basenotes march 2014 it was only three years ago when founder and perfumer alessandro gualtieri announced that nasomatto was dead upon the launch of nasomatto s tenth fragrance blamage alessandro had already turned his attention to his new line orto parisi unfortunately orto parisi hasn t been as successful as his previous brand so in 2016 alessandro returned with his tail between his legs acted as if the last couple of years didn t happen and revived the nasomatto brand with an eleventh release baraonda ooookay stylistically baraonda is very different from previous nasomatto creations especially the more popular ones consisting mainly of aroma chemicals it s more of a creamy and slightly boozy rose offering as opposed to a dark woody or resinous affair with a diverse and synthetic musk cocktail foundation one didn t find the opening too spirituous and considered it to be rather mild with a sweetness reminiscent of stewed apples and raisins a creamy oak woodiness interacts with the aforementioned ambery fruitiness the rose or phenyl ethanol isn t as prominent as expected but is still discernible however there s an underlining charred caramel aroma for the most part which doesn t really work in the composition s favour in conclusion baraonda strives to pass itself off as the second coming when in reality it s nothing more than a translucent linear and underwhelming stylistic tribute to some of slumberhouse s lighter fragrances lacking in any depth and lacklustre in its general execution maybe alessandro s next pretentious promo video should be of him eating his own words with a side order of egg on face both projection and longevity are respectable but nothing astounding posted by trebor labels nasomatto two star reviews new sibet by slumberhouse year 2016 notes mint ash carnation iris cistus leather moss goat fur new sibet marks a rather surprising departure for slumberhouse instead of the now predictable serge lutens homages josh lobb has attempted to forge a new stylistic path the best thing about josh s latest effort is the opening a chalky ashy and parched leather aroma resting on a bed of moss and animalic musk with a chypré aura new sibet calls to mind the old fashioned floral chypré premise of bogue profumo s maai but crisper with a more restrained floral heart combined with the charred campfire woods of tauer perfumes lonestar memories exhibiting hay or dried grass facets the iris and cistus combined add a soft powdery sweetness to the proceedings as for the animalic musk its integration is both enchanting and convincing based on the above this dark fusion of leather ashy woods desiccated florals moss and feral musk should have been a winner and it was until about an hour into its evolution up until this point the only noticeable issue was that the composition seemed too light especially for a parfum extrait but when new sibet finally revealed its true weakness any reservations about tenacity rapidly became a moot point by the mid notes everything falls apart and it smells like an insipid glob of unidentifiable notes which literally amount to nothing of any real significance by the third hour whatever s left on the skin is hardly noticeable at all such a structural disintegration is shocking and one hopes that josh hasn t adopted the same top heavy tactic currently prevalent in the fragrance industry in other words extremely inviting top notes but a bland and insubstantial base barely being perceptible after four hours had it continued the way it started out one would have probably been singing its praises but alas this isn t the case thus one awards four stars for the first hour and two stars for what transpires afterwards but at least josh is trying a different approach disclaimer since some slumberhouse releases are always being improved and with various formulations of the same fragrance in existence this review is based on the sample s received due to the lack of information about these reformulations one is unable to confirm the actual formulation s that has have been reviewed as a result your experience of this fragrance may greatly differ understandably it s all very confusing posted by trebor labels slumberhouse three star reviews mare pacifico by linari year 2014 notes lemon spanish cypress russian birch leaf ozonic notes seaweed mate turkish rose indonesian patchouli kephalis sri lankan sandalwood french moss with mark buxton in the driver s seat once again mare pacifico is the second bona fide aquatic release from linari after 2008 s vista sul mare however mare pacifico ventures down more of a woody aromatic ozonic path as opposed to vista sul mare s fruity floral ozonic premise as a result mare pacifico isn t as fresh with its ozonic chords being less strident the inclusion of seaweed attempts to temper the synthetic aquatic aspect and to a certain extent it works but not completely with a clean rose heart metallic and green nuances are detected throughout its development but what s really interesting is the addition of kephalis an aroma chemical that possesses woody ambery and tobacco facets which provides a further warmth to the woody drydown sadly this isn t enough to prevent the composition from walking a thin line between fabric softener territory and the soapy fragrancy of a bubble bath product although it succeeds in conveying a clean aura for an expensive niche release one expected a lot more still if forced to choose one would opt for mare pacifico over the more generic smelling vista sul mare sillage and longevity are both above average posted by trebor labels linari two star reviews atlas by laboratory perfumes year 2016 notes orange cognac rum raisin black pepper cinnamon ginger sea salt note lavender tobacco hay vanilla coconut patchouli amber tonka bean vetiver musk focusing primarily on tobacco laboratory perfumes fifth offering is a pleasant oriental but its lack of originality is very difficult to overlook while its composite aroma smacks of déjà vu one is unable to pinpoint exactly what fragrance reminds one of atlas but then again moroccan exoticism has been done to death since serge lutens first pioneered it in the 90s with boozy notes an abundance of fruits and spices and a woody oriental base some creations that are similar to atlas include hermès hermèssence ambre narguilé costamor s tabacca brecourt s harâm farah and parfum d empire s aziyadé but these are merely off the top of one s head drawing to a close with a sweet mélange of amber tobacco vanilla and woods it s undoubtedly the best effort from this house to date unfortunately based on its lack of ingenuity and inadequate staying power one found it very difficult to justify awarding it an additional star posted by trebor labels laboratory perfumes two star reviews untitled 8 by untitled year 2011 notes narcissus tobacco oud black leather fur civet feral musk comment untitled 8 is a limited edition release as part of luckyscent s untitled series untitled 8 was created by smell bent s brent leonesio with an array of animalic notes and sold as a limited edition perfume oil it s reportedly not for the faint of heart however while one found it both feral and alluring it didn t quite measure up to one s expectations one agrees that it could be considered both vulgar and challenging especially to those who are unacquainted with genuine animal musk but that s about as far as it goes yes untitled 8 is indeed a skanky and potentially polarising creation such that serge lutens s muscs koublaï khän could be considered extremely tame by comparison but it does have some noticeable flaws to begin with it s not as natural as originally anticipated resulting in a lack of complexity upon the opening a generous serving of civet is clearly evident but it seems to be of the artificial variety known as civetone while civetone serves as a respectable synthetic substitute it still lacks the astringent faecal aspect and sweet floral underpinning of natural civet absolute then there s the feral musk accord which smells like a well integrated cocktail of musk aroma chemicals from this one can clearly discern the presence of tonquitone a synthetic replacement for natural deer musk which possesses a metallic and musky caramel aroma beyond that any barnyard attributes are heavily reliant on the tobacco leather and oud with initial expectations of a dark brash and unapologetic skankiness it s more of a timid animalic musk with leathery nuances and a caramelised sweetness now this could largely be due to its oil base but that in itself raises some questions and concerns ranging from the type of carrier oil used and its shelf life to the official perfume concentration unfortunately the absence of such important information doesn t really help matters at all and while one acknowledges that perfume oils aren t always sillage monsters one still found untitled 8 to be lacking some much needed bite in summary it isn t as raw animalic or potent as it could have been providing moderate tenacity it has great potential as a layering agent but regardless of its shortcomings one would definitely recommend untitled 8 over many of the third rate animalic musk concoctions currently being churned out by niche houses including but not limited to cb i hate perfume s cb musk parfum d empire s musc tonkin nishane s afrika olifant and les liquides imaginaires peau de bete posted by trebor labels three star reviews untitled cb musk by cb i hate perfume year 2006 notes undisclosed comment cb musk is part of the cb reinvention series described as an all natural rendition of tonkin musk even though the owner and perfumer christopher brosius has admitted to never having smelt the real thing cb musk is an interesting olfactory experiment that doesn t quite hit the mark initially one detects a soft and mellow butteriness with some mellow fruity woody and smoky components to one s nose there are certainly no overt faecal or barnyard attributes as anticipated although a vague animalic underlining is only discernible when hovering extremely close to the area of application overall it s a relatively easy to wear and somewhat vanillic musk creation with a slightly powdery drydown that reveals floral rubbery and salty facets but as previously mentioned there s nothing substantially animalic or raunchy about it with its release date being over ten years ago it s probably been reformulated at least once and could explain one s grave disappointment with it after all stock photos of cb musk show the juice as a darkish brown while the sample one is basing this review on is more of a pale yellow hue based on this alone one can only gather that what s available now isn t what cb i hate perfume s founder originally formulated geared more towards those who are easily offended by hardcore feral aromas sillage is minimal with longevity of around three to four hours posted by trebor labels cb i hate perfume two star reviews ambra di venezia by montgomery taylor year 1998 notes bergamot lime mandarin mango french narcissus jasmine sandalwood comment eau de parfum review while learning about the art of glass making in venice montgomery taylor was inspired to compose ambra di venezia after viewing a canopy of amber skies with the assistance of perfumer rayda vega the two worked together to create a fragrance to encapsulate that very sunset along with montgomery s other memories of his time in venice released in 1998 one is unsure as to how many times it has been reformulated as what greets one s nose is anything but an amber scent instead what one initially discerns is a somewhat artificial citrus blast followed by a touch of mango and some white florals the opening is off putting at first with its lemon detergent assault and saccharine like sweetness but this quickly settles to allow the white florals to fully emerge although not listed there s also a creamy vanillic aspect to the composition that possesses a hint of coconut thus lending an additional tropical subtlety to the proceedings sadly by the time it reaches the heart it becomes thin soapy and hollow personally it s at this point where a strong ambery or resinous presence could have compensated for the slightly unpleasant opening resting on a bed of sandalwood the drydown is a mellow creamy woodiness with faint floral flourishes one can also detect cedar like nuances during its final moments on the skin ultimately the name is a complete misnomer and anyone expecting a fully fledged amber offering will be sorely disappointed and while there are the odd pleasant mo...
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