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rt from vintage simplicity 3713 this lovely full skirt has 3 panels with a centre back seam and two seams on the front my bodice is designed for side zipper and i wanted to keep it that way having recently made a tessuti lois which features a zip in a dart i took this idea and inserted a big narrow side dart in the skirt and got the side zipper in that way i gambled that the dart would be more or less disguised by all the pleats and folds and i was right the steps i took were to baste the dart in check how it looked then slash behind the dart and open it up to put an invisible zipper in once the zipper was sewn in i went back and prick stitched it along both sides to make sure it was sitting properly due to the somewhat stiff nature of the fabric a petticoat underneath helped me realise my 50s full skirt dreams frocktails was a fantastic night we had a lot of new faces and plenty of familiar ones i love the diversity of outfits or when two people wear the same pattern in a different fabric or the same fabric in a different pattern look at these shiny happy faces with ali jen anouk i m so happy to have this fabric out of my stash and into my wardrobe the little pleated sleeve detail is sweet but it s hard to see in this print o project summary pattern australian home journal november 1958 fabrics silk linen from the remnant warehouse silk lining from the fabric store notions vizzy zip and rasant thread inspirations various vintage sewing ladies marie from a stitching odyssey i miss the vintage pledge tanya from mrs hughes heather from handmade by heather b top shoe accessory hair makeup game o september 21 2018 colesworth 50s fashion australian home journal brisbane frocktails brisbane spoolettes frocktails 4 comments history alive 1940s i have a history loving family and we try to go to a couple of event days a year history alive is held at a historical military fort and hosts encampments from eras back to the middle ages and up to wwii we are always impressed at the lengths the enthusiasts volunteers go to with their costuming for our day out at history alive this year i decided it was a great excuse to finally make a 1940s shirt dress i have quite a few shirt dress patterns but none of them were quite right for a large scale rayon i had been stashing for a couple of years until i was able to get a copy of out of print butterick 5846 the cover art doesn t sell it strongly as a 40s pattern but the line drawings did it for me all the features i had been thinking of wide collar button through back yoke shoulder gathers waist pleating non paneled skirt for the big print and fullness in the sleeve caps although the description says very loose fitting i made it more fitted and with 12 pleats around the waist it looks good without the belt too past me bought 3m of this fabric so i needed to take time and care with pattern piece placement i decided on the skirt first as the large floral motif runs in vertical lines centring the back piece and cutting on the fold i then pattern matched the front pieces along the same fold line i cut the skirt pieces as long as i could with the yardage at hand somewhere between the shorter and longer length given by the pattern then there was lots of vacillating on where to place the collar and revere facings yokes etc i changed the sleeve cuff to the one from the longer sleeves on simplicity 1880 as i had two extra buttons that i wanted to sew above the notch to show them off i also took in the bodice at the shoulder about an inch and it is still wide i didn t take anymore off as i thought i might try it out with shoulder pads for buttons i had in mind dark blue or navy with some swirly detail for shirts i can usually find enough of something that suits me in the stash but for a shirt dress i often have to go hunting i visited quite a few shops without finding any blue buttons like i had in mind but i did find these burgundy coloured ones that were a great match to the poppies i was lucky to find some great accessories recently burgundy coloured shoes and the blue belt were new from dangerfield i also picked up nude pantihose and tortoiseshell hair combs from target i found a slip in my wardrobe and a string of garnet beads in my jewellery box australian diggers american gis german and russian military history recreationalists were encamped together and they do a skirmish show each day involving jeeps tanks and armoured vehicles wwii skirmish gis jeeps post skirmish waffenbruder das reich ba64 armoured car miss 9 s favourite exhibit this year was the blade display conducted on pumpkins by the scots and polish hussars she is a fencer and there is also a renaissance fencing group we like to watch we are off to a medieval weekend next like a renaissance faire so i am hoping to have some costuming to show off from that next o project summary patterns butterick 5846 oop fabrics rayon from spotlight notions buttons from gardams rasant thread inspiration i m a long time admirer of heather s 1940s creations and styling july 11 2018 colesworth 1940s b5846 butterick 5846 history alive 6 comments a lois story i am very used to sewing and wearing patterns with an actual waist seam it suits me for ease of the adjustments i usually make for sway back and being short in the waist tessuti s lois dress is only a slight departure from my usual silhouette it does have a waist seam on the back i liked the dress from its initial release but i wasn t sure about the deep v neck and i wasn t sure if the lack of waist definition would suit me i didn t buy the pattern on a gamble though i was able to try on a sample in the melbourne tessuti store it had been at least ten years since i had visited melbourne so i was pretty keen to get down there once i heard that some sydney spoolettes were heading there for the ngv dior exhibition my pal michelle helped this become a reality by conveniently extending her conference stay and accommodation cheers michelle and we were joined by fellow brisbane spoolette bianca the exhibition was quite something and the weekend allowed for catch ups with melbourne and sydney spoolettes over lunches brunches and dinners clear it darn cheap fabrics and rathdowne remnants were high on my list to get to but i had not planned on visiting tessuti as i was scared i would become enamoured with expensive fabrics but we found ourselves with a bit of time on our sunday morning before flights and tessuti is conveniently located in the city and open on sundays helen funkbunny told me she had tried on the lois dress sample the day before so i thought i would give it a go i was surprised to find that the size 10 fit me the deep v neck didn t seem too bad and the lack of waist seemed okay too the other thing i realised was that i had popped it on over my head had forgotten there was a zipper in the side dart i split the pattern with michelle and then i did become enamoured with an expensive fabric an italian rayon crepe that i thought would suit lois and decided to splurge as souvenir of a fabulous trip o having tried it on i was pleased to know what size i would make and that i wouldn t need to bother with the zip i decided that this would be the perfect dress for my sister in law s wedding brisbane spoolettes annual high tea also happened to fall on the same day like a social butterfly i was able to flit from one event onto the other i missed out on proper catch ups with my spoolettes but very glad i was still able to attend both a couple of my fave pics from high tea with alice and ali and with leith also in her lois i have very little to say about the construction it was quite straightforward i didn t use any vilene shields my rayon was reasonably stable the neck binding technique in the instructions is a little bit different to those i have seen before and i did leave out the zip designed to go in a side dart it is an interesting design with side shaping from the darts it has no side seam on the skirt the front piece continues around to meet at the back panel forming two seams on the back such a simple but elegant design project summary patterns tessuti patterns lois fabrics italian rayon crepe from tessuti fabrics notions none omitted zip o may 25 2018 colesworth lois dress tessuti tessuti patterns 8 comments trio de mélilot more for project work shirt another pattern that i have had for some time and finally gotten around to making after admiring so many versions on the blogosphere i ve now made three deer and doe mélilot shirts this summer two short sleeved and one with long sleeves another win for projectworkshirt comfortable and casual with minimal darts or shaping but a bit more formal with collar and buttons the short sleeved version is so quick to make up and really doesn t take much fabric i love the collar so i added that in to both of my ones with short sleeves i prefer the alternate collar construction from four square walls for my first i used a lovely cotton lawn that i had bought a couple of years ago on goldhawk rd i really went fabric blind on that trip but this one stood out to me with the all over non directional print i was able to cut the sleeve cuffs and collar stand on the cross grain and fit it all in to 1 5m narrow fabric after i finished this one i fell in love with a rayon from darn cheap fabrics after leith sewbrunswick shared her purchase in instagram and decided another short sleeved one was in order this fabric was wider so i only used about 1m or slightly less not sure if it was conservative fabric use or generous cutting from darn cheap but i was able to pass on between 60 70cm to natalie janedoedeer for an ogden cami this rayon is seriously luscious the colours are so vivid and the fibre is so soft and fine this is definitely my favourite shirt at the moment the long sleeved version was inspired by an impulse buy at spotlight i thought these wintery colours would suit it originally i was planning to modify the sleeve to a 3 4 with a simple cuff but then i decided to go all out and do the original sleeve placket tucks and cuffs with buttonhole even though i ll probably always roll up the sleeves a bit which is why i decided to add sleeve tabs i used the style arc elsie pattern to help me position them and i bound the sleeve placket with a simple bias strip instead of following instructions project summary patterns deer and doe melilot fabrics cotton lawn from somewhere on goldhawk road rayon viscose from darn cheap fabrics rayon from spotlight notions buttons from lincraft and spotlight may 9 2018 colesworth deer and doe melilot melilot blouse project work shirt 8 comments hippie chick dress i ve had this cynthia rowley simplicity pattern for a couple of years procrastinating about making it up thinking i would need to make adjustments there are a lot of reviews on pattern review with quite a few comments about gaping when i finally made a toile it showed that i needed only one minor fitting change it still took me nearly half a year to make up the real thing i have also had this rayon in the stash for a couple of years it came to me from a swap the donor tells me it was in her aunts stash so i ve no idea how old it really is it was view a that attracted me to the pattern but this large print fabric really wanted to be a maxi dress and i am very happy with the pairing in fact i ve made view a and the jury is out i ll have to wear it again and take some pics i had quite a bit of fun with pattern placement and cutting out for this one thinking about it put me off for a while a fellow brisbane spoolette helped me decide to try to keep as much dark purple on the front bodice pieces and i based the remaining bodice and waistband pieces around that i made the skirt as long as i could with the amount of fabric i had it is a really long skirt on this pattern with all the pieces and pattern break up i chose to pipe both the top and bottom of the waistband for a bit of further definition teal voile and piping cord happened to be in stash note to self buy more piping cord i was surprised how straight forward and quick the construction is lots of gathering with this one a bit of hand stitching on the inside waistband and bias bound armholes the print inspired me to whip up a matching pucci style headband and with the accessorising and photo locale this one looks a bit more glam than my original concept i have worn this more with my flat purple saltwater sandals in real life so this is definitely a pattern and stash busting win it s my first maxi length dress why d it take me so long in lightweight rayon it s so swishy and cool very much welcome in the never ending summer we had this year o project summary pattern simplicity 1801 fabric vintage rayon from swap notions vizzy zip rasant thread april 18 2018 colesworth s1801 simplicity 1801 vintage fabric 10 comments project work shirt for summer blog posts have taken a back seat over our summer christmas always gets busy and i moved house for the second time in a year i still managed to squeeze in some sewing though mostly summer shirts suitable for work i m still on my mission to have 2 weeks worth of work shirts that i love for both summer and winter this post is a compilation of summer shirts from vintage 80s butterick patterns the first is from butterick 4224 a fairly simple shirt no shaping set in sleeves and a forward shoulder yoke i chose the view with a bit of gathering onto the yoke my choice of fabric a nice light indian cotton makes me think of pyjamas each time i put it on i think it would look great with a pair of boxer shorts i also made butterick 3696 in a lovely lightweight crinkle cotton from pitt trading and decided on view c pointed collar and gathers onto the forward yoke i m very happy with this one it was so quick to make with only 3 pieces front back and collar the front piece includes placket and facing the extended shoulders give enough coverage for shoulder protection from the sun while still keeping cool enough and without having to add on sleeves after seeing liza_made s bigbluescrapbag at the end of the year i decided i would look at making a garment or two from my remnants as a new year s resolution sew your stash or sew your scraps it seems that there a few of us using the ikea frakta blue bag for our scraps i wanted to make yet another version of butterick 3696 after selecting a bright bird printed lawn remnant from making a deer and doe datura for my sister i found i also had a remnant of solid blue lawn for a contrast collar this one is view d rounded collar with gathering it may not be so long before my next post i have 3 more shirts and 2 dresses unblogged hope to get to them soon thanks for reading project summary patterns butterick 4224 and butterick 3696 both 1980s fabrics cotton lawn from sapling textiles crinkle cotton from pitt trading cotton lawn from spotlight notions buttons from lincraft spotlight and thrift shop march 22 2018 colesworth 1980s sewing patterns big blue scrap bag b...