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description=A blog about classic movie costume design and fashion;

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the, of, in, fashion, studio, and, golden, age, costume, screen, early, 1925, classic, movie, american, designing, hollywood, wardrobe, film, time, from, to, posts, recent, my, book, silver, modes, by, christian, esquevin, mgm, cartoon, lon, chaney, phantom, opera, origin, four, fingered, model, illustration, random, harvest, tearjerker, ruby, slippers, oz, theft, fbi, 32, million, auction, travis, banton, edith, head, years, introducing, gene, tierney, return, frank, james, betty, blythe, queen, sheba, gigolo, depth, below, gloss, western, company, shows, 1930, an, paris, art, dance, music, costumes, somewhere, treasure, island, page, tv, mary, ann, nyberg, her, cinema, sunset, came, too, soon, boat, bed, prop, mists, navigation, comments, new, on, designer, gilbert, adrian, member, meta, archives, tags, blog, about, design,

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film in one scene blythe as the queen of sheba races nell craig as princess vashti for the affections of king solomon the two actresses were racing their own chariots it was the most difficult thing i have ever been called upon to do in pictures i knew if we rehearsed the scene once more i should never have been able to endure the strain nell craig who drove the other chariot was so overcome that she fell and broke three ribs just as we were finishing the last scene there was terrific excitement with the extras yelling and all of us frightened and trembling with fear that miss craig was seriously injured my arms are long and i am strong miss craig is weaker and she simply could not hold those wild animals a moment longer fortunately it was the very last scene i am sure neither miss craig nor myself would be willing to go around those sharp curves again the queen of sheba was a big hit blythe s biggest unfortunately the film is a lost silent classic one of the many thousands of silent films and one no doubt burned in the fox films vault fire of 1937 french poster for the queen of sheba depicting her in the chariot race betty blythe photographed in the chariot following the queen of sheba only secondary roles were offered to her by film companies so blythe started her own production company b b productions and produced films in 1922 and 1923 that featured her in leading roles then came chu chin chow in 1923 another period costume drama set in baghdad the film was an english german co production filmed in berlin blythe starred as zahrat a slave woman blythe followed this with a film for samuel goldwyn the recoil 1924 set in paris and the riviera featuring the first ever filming inside the casino in monte carlo blythe made several more movies in 1924 starring as louche women the stereotype she couldn t shake from sheba these included christy cabanne s the spitfire and b p schulberg s production the breath of scandal and vitagraph brought her back for folly of vanity the poster promoting a 1925 queen of sheba in a dazzling dramatic fantasy blythe was called back to berlin to star in a real dazzling dramatic fantasy she she who must be obeyed based on the h rider haggard novel and for which he wrote the intertitles for this silent film blythe starred as ayesha and was again dressed in fantastic costumes several in see through fabrics her director for the queen of sheba j gordon edwards had wanted to star blythe as mary queen of scots a role that might have broken the stereotype of exotic roles in flimsy costumes but alas he died in 1925 when betty blythe was in london she went to the famous lady duff gordon of the house of lucille to have a gown made as a costume duff gordon was experienced in designing for movie stars needing gowns with sex appeal as well as dressing her regular customers from high society at this time however duff gordon was in the latter stages of her career and was seeing clients in her own house as she described the encounter when betty blythe came in for a fitting a distinguished client was mistakenly shown into the same room when i reached the door i was just in time to see her make a hurried exit with some agitation she told me that the occupant of the room had been a young lady whose only clothing consisted of a pair of stockings after duff gordon explained the situation about the actress s fitting her distinguished client remarked that blythe did have a beautiful figure betty blythe in chu chin chow 1923 when does it happen that a big star is no longer in demand the roles are no longer big studios become small independents the star s age now has them playing married women in supporting roles and worse they are no longer credited in the roles they do play common in classic films all this happened to betty blythe in the late 1920s and 1930s she did not suddenly become popular as an older actress in the 1930s 40s or 50s as did may robson marie dressler or charlotte greenwood or fade away completely like evelyn brent gretta nissen or jetta goudal but betty blythe kept playing parts in movies for decades no matter how small this was not for lack of anything else to do she had married film director and actor paul scardon in 1919 and they remained married until his death in 1954 blythe just loved the movies and being on the set her filmography astonishes in 1935 she appeared as a spectator in an opera box in anna karenina in 1936 she appeared in the gorgeous hussy as mrs wainwright in 1937 she was uncredited in topper and the same year in conquest as princess mirska she played the small role of mrs south in the women in 1939 then in 1941 honky tonk as mrs wilson in 1943 she played a dowager in presenting lily mars and as an officer s wife in they were expendable in 1945 she appeared as a customer in the postman always rings twice in 1946 as the floor manager in the secret life of walter mitty in 1947 and as frau kohner in the tear jerker letter from an unknown woman in 1948 in 1949 she appeared as a lobby guest in the barkleys of broadway then starred as herself in the hollywood story in 1951 some years later she popped up again as a dowager in lust for life then as a party guest in the helen morgan story she made her final movie appearance in full formal party attire in my fair lady in 1964 betty blythe died april 7 1972 from a heart attack at the age of 78 blythe would have made such a great story teller about hollywood and its filmmaking lore and such a shame she passed before oral histories and silent film stars could appear at classic film festivals and unlike most classic film stars her most significant work on film is considered lost yet she still has fans and her image in stills and posters attest to the power and bravery she had as a dynamic female movie star betty blythe photograph after the queen of sheba 1921 the sacramento star august 10 1915 p 3 john mackie this week in history 1921 a biblical epic gets the hollywood treatment in the queen of sheba vancouver sun dec 21 2018 interview in flammablenitrate sun sep 06 2015 taylorology 63 https www nitrateville com viewtopic php t 20871 lady duff gordon discretions and indiscretions p378 views 2335 betty blythe she j gordon edwards the queen of sheba american gigolo the depth below the gloss november 19 2023 christian esquevin leave a comment american gigolo is a film that purposefully captivates from the brilliance of its look clothing interior decor beverly hills shops palm springs modern architecture this is the beautiful atmosphere and its inhabitants or the ones that serve them we are mesmerized by the lifestyle this was especially true for those who saw it in 1980 when its style was trendsetting yet for all its gloss it is ultimately a story of tragedy love and redemption like the paradox of the film itself it was influenced by classic literature and in turn influenced modern fashion and taste paul schrader directed and wrote the screenplay for american gigolo richard gere played the lead role as julian costarring lauren hutton as michelle schrader was influenced by the french director robert bresson and especially bresson s film pickpocket 1959 in making american gigolo bresson was also a big influence on the french new wave jean luc godard reportedly viewed pickpocket ten times bresson was in turn influenced by fyodor dostoevsky and his novel of crime and redemption crime and punishment in the making of pickpocket the story elements of the novel center on a young man who believes that he alone can judge that he is above the law and that for some people even murder is permissible if it is done for a higher purpose which he soon commits ultimately he is doggedly pursued by a detective and is sent to a siberian prison followed there by a former prostitute who he has helped and who in turn helps him to recover dostoevsky s theme was the power of love and redemption thus did this theme find its way in the final scene of pickpocket when the imprisoned robber for the first time tenderly kisses jeanne a young woman he had previously scorned from behind bars and says to come to you what strange journey have i had to take pickpocket directed by robert bresson starring martin lasalle and marika green paul schrader took the existential starkness that was the backdrop of pickpocket and turned it on its head creating in american gigolo a ravishing and enticing look he wanted a european aesthetic and so the overall look of the film was done by art director ferdinando scarfiotti he could not receive art director credit since he was not a member of that guild scarfiotti had previously worked with luchino visconti on a death in venice richard gere s wardrobe was designed by the young and then unknown giorgio armani he subsequently became famous as the men s clothier in hollywood and the westside the music was composed by electronic dance music innovator giorgio maroder with the opening song call me by debbie harry and blondie subsequently becoming a mega hit the movie s setting was beverly hills malibu and palm springs providing the rich background from which the lead actor could ply his particular trade as a gigolo american gigolo was very much ahead of its time yet it was stereotypical in its depiction of gays which the main character julian calls fags julian glides with ease through the moneyed class and its social haunts in l a s west side as the film title suggests he is a high class male prostitute the film opens as he drives down pch pacific coast highway in his mercedes benz 450sl to the sounds of call me on his way to his tailors in beverly hills he visits the woman who pimps him haggling over her percentage of his 1000 fee when he enters his stylish apartment and goes through his exercise routines while learning swedish and gazing at himself in the mirror we are meant to disdain his narcissism and shallowness the interior of julian s apartment displays a spare but rich beauty its colors are muted grays taupes rust and browns with occasional blues these colors are also the tones of julian s wardrobe julian gets a call to sub as a chauffeur for a rich middle aged woman he takes on the job and fulfills her every requirement when he leaves her hotel room he switches jackets at the coat check and goes to the bar to see what other business he can pick up he sees a beautiful woman she is played by model lauren hutten she sits alone speaking in french to the waiter julian introduces himself and asks her in french if he can sit at her table and have a drink when she summons the waiter in english they both laugh and begin talking in english entering a conversation that leads to the discovery of his motive as a guide or escort and possibly her motive as well how many languages do you speak she asks five or six he replies plus the international one she smirks that s right he says although she is obviously interested in him this awkward meeting degenerates further until he walks away lauren hutton as michelle stratton courtesy photofest the following day julian continues his routines as escort and prostitute his other pimp leon sends him to palm springs to a beautifully decorated moderne style house where julian walks into an unsuspecting s m assignment with a wife and her observing husband julian tries to put the woman at ease while her abusive husband gives orders richard gere as julian in american gigolo courtesy photofest julian is always perfectly dressed for every occasion whether in casual designer jeans and fitted shirt or jackets slacks and ties armani designed gere s wardrobe and it created a sensation in men s clothing in the u s armani used quality italian wool for gere s slacks with wool wool and cashmere or linen jackets the famous scene of richard gere doing coke singing along to smokey robinson s the love i saw in you is just a mirage while laying out several matched wardrobe options on his bed is unparalleled in men s fashion in film with all of his wardrobe possibilities he selects slacks shirt tie and jacket combinations that are very muted in tone and with only slight color variations from each other finally he dresses and its near midnight and he s going out but then he gets a ring that he has a visitor a friend it s michelle who he met at the restaurant bar she is humble asking what does she have to do to have him why can t she have what other women have what other women pay for she can pay also he sees her yearning she stays they make love julian now enters into a different kind of relationship with a woman from high society richard gere as julian in armani separates photo courtesy photofest the first crack in julian s carefully laid foundation appears with detective sunday played by hector elizondo the analog of porfiry petrovich in crime and punishment this dissonance is manifested by sunday s poor taste in clothes an appearance which allows julian to assume an air of superiority while underestimating sunday s intelligence julian is suspected of murdering the wife of the palm springs couple in another encounter with the detective julian states his point of view what is legal is not always right he says and some people are above the law here we see the same philosophy as expressed by raskolnikov in crime and punishment and by michel in pickpocket and in each case they are pursued by a detective that is not so much brilliant but is there to mirror their guilt and to doggedly pursue them until they succeed meanwhile michelle still pursues julian and she reveals that she is the unhappy wife of senator stratton who is on the campaign trail julian has fallen from his pedestal and he has now fallen for michelle when he goes to visit the senator to tell him that michelle loves him he no longer wears earth tones but a serious black suit the senator offers him money to leave his wife alone julian tells him he can keep his money the senator tells him nobody in society will have anything more to do with him julian in his black suit photo courtesy photofest julian s world crumbles the police are looking to arrest him for murder he s been framed for a murder he didn t commit his apartment was first searched further echoes of crime and punishment and pickpocket and evidence was later planted in his car he can no longer use either instead of the posh streets of beverly hills he cruises the seedier parts of hollywood in a cheap rented car he tries to get an alibi from leon but it s leon that admits that it was he who framed him why julian asks because you were frameable nobody cared about you leon answers and then when leon goes out on the terrace julian pushes him off in a rage over the railing only to try unsuccessfully to save him before he plunges to his death one by one all his society ladies shun him even the one that could provide the real alibi there is only michelle that stands by him even as he is arrested and is prosecuted from the heights of narcissism and self confidence julian is now filled with self loathing and despair urging h...