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threadbared neocolonialism skip to main skip to sidebar showing posts with label neocolonialism show all posts showing posts with label neocolonialism show all posts 14 september 2007 politics of fashion or fashionable politics on the cover of the current issue of time out new york september 13 19 2007 is a rather undecorous image of a black calf hair round toed stiletto stamping out the september issue of vogue magazine as if it were a stale cigarette butt the subheading beneath the image reads how to master this season s style without selling your soul to the devils wearing prada for those who venerate this monthly bible of fashion tony s cover will no doubt ignite a probably not so deep seated contempt for the 20 and 30 something hipsters of lower manhattan and the outer boroughs who are too cool for establishment fashion and who seem to be tony s target demographic but they are in the shrinking majority recent print and online comments regarding the publication of the mammoth september issue of vogue has described the magazine as useless a sad joke with which the racism and elitist mentality of vogue is astonishing an old bitch gone in the teeth and a dead magazine while it s doubtful that the visual and verbal grousing against vogue will have a real material impact on its reputation in the world of fashion to the contrary singling out vogue reinforces its power as the publication to beat up on such discontent underscores a point made in a previous posting about the increasing attention to and concern for fashion s democratization see right to bare arms in the august 2007 archives but picking on vogue seems unfair fashion with a capital f has long relied on uneven relationships of power while either ignoring them by making invisible the circuits of domestic immigrant and transnational cheap labor that produces it or romanticizing them by using nostalgic backdrops of colonial fantasies or by appropriating ethnic trends and textiles to market a white upper class metropolitan globe trotting lifestyle before kate moss graced roberto cavalli s safari lite ads and before the chronicles of keira knightley in which we see her documenting her east african trip in a leather bound louis vuitton journal while wearing a creamy marc jacobs ruffled smock dress there was donna karan s advertising campaign set in viet nam in march 2001 donna karan introduced her spring 2001 donna karan collection line with a series of photographs depicting a love story between jeremy irons and milla jovovich set in ho chi minh city karan described the narrative as an adventurous romantic journey where east meets west but the meeting comes across as more of an occupation the steely jawed irons and the doe eyed jovovich along with their heterosexual entanglements idealized white bodies and melancholic love story occupy the foreground of each photograph while the people and landscape of ho chi minh city blur together to form one indiscernible backdrop there only to buttress the fantasy karan s spring 2001 line is meant to embody nearly identical versions of this fantasy have been rehearsed in western cultural productions like out of africa 1985 an adaptation of isak dinesen s book by the same name published in 1937 in the 1885 publication of joseph thomson s through maasailand and throughout american history beginning with the founding fathers desire for chinese tea porcelain and the genteel culture these oriental products conveyed given this long and expansive history why bash vogue and why now as previously mentioned in right to bare arms the fashion industry s heightened concerns for democratizing its industry which in a post 9 11 reality was at risk of seeming hopelessly out of touch with the more immediate concerns of everyday people has everything to do with the heightened awareness of americans collective vulnerability in relation to our national in security today the superficial elitism that vogue represents and reproduces but certainly does not own and which was once taken for granted as intrinsic to haute couture registers as highhanded and outdated sartorial icons like sarah jessica parker have declared fashion not a luxury but a right and iconic designers like vera wang and karl lagerfeld are selling their wares at price points that are affordable even on a mall rat s allowance what has been conventionally perceived as the province of moneyed skinny girls who were about as deep as their vincent longo lip and cheek gel stain and other like minded trustafarians is today being refigured as every wo man s domain miuccia prada explains even when people don t have anything they have their bodies and their clothes rather than jump on the vogue haters bandwagon i look forward to reading the elegant prose of andré leon talley s life with andré too much to give up my subscription i want to draw attention to the many semantic sleights of hand that are undergirding fashion s emergent humanitarianism in the above quote when asked about fashion miuccia prada the matriarch of italian fashion and one of the most respected designers in the world dresses it down by calling it clothes once polarized and polarizing fashion and clothes are conflated as if they were synonymous terms this conflation though elides and distracts from the discursive and material differences that constitute the fashion industry and a socially stratified society like ours the fashion industry depends on change and difference the planned obsolescence inherent in trends guarantees that consumers continue to rid their closets of unfashionable clothes and replenish them with the latest fashions if fashion and clothes were actually synonymous terms in other words if all clothes were equally fashionable in that all sartorial choices fashion identities equally a multibillion dollar industry which includes apparel and textile manufacturers advertising agencies modeling agencies cosmetics companies and printers would grind to a halt because status would no longer be conferred through fashion and therefore fashion would be meaningless and not even the most egalitarian of fashionistas want that on the other hand the rigid distinction or polarization between the fashionable and the clothed often produces egregiously classist and racist notions of human value a person wearing a chanel suit inhabits a kinder world than a person wearing mom jeans and an ill fitting rugby shirt likewise the ao dai that the faceless vietnamese woman carting the languorous jovovich around is wearing and the red robes of the maasai men who are symbolically and literally positioned below knightley in the western imaginary that is reflected in karan s ads is not fashion but traditional garb or worse ethnic costume slogans that universalize fashion as everyone s right and sound bites that rhapsodize clothing as a collective ritual of humanity has done very little to disrupt the neocolonial relationship that haute monde fantasies are still built on at the same time i worry that the increased conscientiousness of consumers to the politics of fashion is little more than the posturing of fashionable politics let s hope that save darfur doesn t go the way of free tibet posted by minh ha t pham at 5 29 pm no comments labels democratization of fashion neocolonialism vogue older posts home subscribe to posts atom about us we are two clotheshorse academics who write teach and speak about the politics of fashion and beauty minh ha t pham based in new york city and san francisco shops sample sales with a keen and discerning eye she writes about the ways in which national publics and polities are organized around traditional and new media that are increasingly shaped and limited by neoliberal discourses and policies focusing on the fashion media and the vietnamese american media both her projects are concerned with the complex and contradictory relations of communication technologies consumerism and capitalism mimi thi nguyen based outside of chicago scours thrift and vintage stores with reckless abandon situating her scholarly work within transnational feminist cultural studies she writes about neoliberalism and humanitarianism war and empire a former zinester punk planet columnist and maximumrocknroll shitworker she has also published on punk and queer subcultures find out more about us you can also write to threadbared dot 75 at gmail dot com follow this blog with bloglovin fashion beauty a la allure garconniere bits and bobbins counterfeit chic fashion for writers fashion incubator fashion intelligentsia fashionist fatshionista footpath zeitgeist good morning midnight kingdom of style le coil no good for me nothing elegant nypl fashion archives pour porter selvedge magazine style bubble style rookie the business of fashion the coveted the cut the renegade bean the sunday best thread for thought wardrobe remix what s her tights worn fashion journal worn through culture arts auto straddle b vikki vintage bitch magazine blogs black nerds network counterfeit crochet exactitudes fashion institute of design and merchandising blog fashion projects frock talk costume and cinema hacking couture history is made at night the politics of dancing and musicking kathleen hanna lttr obsessive consumption oh industry one grand home pattern language clothing as communicator exhibit political fashion sketchbook magazine slice harvester the grey sweatsuit revolution the nunu two girls working theory politics berg publishers collective selection color re adjustment difference engines fashioning an ethical industry lipstickeater muslimah media watch order of the gash racialicious research centre for fashion the body material cultures sit down man you re a bloody tragedy sociological images archives 2010 41 april 2 it s moving day what is this fake in the fake sartorialist march 11 february 13 january 15 2009 96 december 8 november 11 october 14 september 6 august 15 july 20 june 10 may 6 march 1 february 4 january 1 2008 24 december 1 october 1 september 2 august 1 july 10 june 9 2007 10 october 1 september 1 august 8 search our closets topics keywords race 28 hijab 15 democratization of fashion 12 politics of blogging 12 linkage 11 academic 10 teaching 10 punk 9 queer 9 muslim 8 blackness 8 labor 8 photography 8 politics 8 theory 8 vintage 7 vogue 6 burqa 6 film 6 gender 6 style blog 6 sartorialist 5 art 5 exhibit 5 fat 5 femininity 5 homelessness 5 sexuality 5 style icon 5 africa 4 minoo moallem 4 nylon 4 cheap chic 4 ethical fashion 4 fashion blogging 4 gender presentation 4 morality 4 thrifting 4 france 3 iran 3 masculinity 3 new york city 3 spring fashion 3 topshop 3 civic body 3 commodification 3 copyright 3 counterfeit 3 dandyism 3 fashion philanthropy 3 hair 3 individualization 3 lifestyle politics 3 menswear 3 model 3 music 3 new digital work order 3 sales 3 standardization 3 teaching outfit 3 textile arts 3 uniform 3 video 3 war 3 asian american designers 2 asianness 2 forever 21 2 future classics 2 orientalism 2 art history 2 beauty 2 beth ditto 2 blog use 2 boots 2 capital 2 class 2 colonialism 2 consumption 2 dignity 2 disability 2 dumb quotes 2 empire 2 handbag 2 health 2 immigration 2 interview 2 knockoffs 2 lipstickeater 2 makeover 2 new technologies 2 obama 2 politics of fashion 2 post 9 11 2 racial sartorial profiling 2 revolution 2 sample sale 2 secondhand 2 style 2 television 2 1990s 1 angela mcrobbie 1 chloe 1 clinton 1 daphne guinness 1 ebony magazine 1 elaine showalter 1 givenchy 1 iraq 1 isabel molina guzman 1 italia 1 los angeles 1 marc jacobs 1 martha webber 1 martin margiela 1 mexico 1 morton 1 ms mentor 1 ngo 1 neocolonialism 1 new york magazine 1 pee wee herman 1 persian carpet 1 phillip lim 1 rupaul s drag race 1 sotomayor 1 south asian 1 the fashion show 1 the sunday best 1 uniqlo 1 venus williams 1 what i wore today 1 yinka shonibare 1 alice bag 1 american apparel 1 appearance policy 1 arjun appadurai 1 athletes 1 black femininity 1 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romper 1 sapeur 1 science 1 sculpture 1 self esteem 1 sentimentality 1 service work 1 shoes 1 shopping 1 sick 1 sketchbook 1 slaves to fashion 1 sneaker 1 sorority 1 speaking 1 style police 1 subculture 1 sweats 1 t shirt 1 this joy ride 1 thunderhorse 1 time 1 tina chow 1 tramp chic 1 transational 1 transnational 1 trench coat 1 unicorn 1 value 1 veiling 1 violence 1 visual culture 1 vivenne westwood 1 women 1 yoko ono 1 zines 1 all contents copyrighted 2007 2010 by mimi thi nguyen and minh ha pham