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threadbared model skip to main skip to sidebar showing posts with label model show all posts showing posts with label model show all posts 05 october 2009 the issue on black models while the much ballyhooed italian vogue s all black issue last july 2008 was an overwhelming disappointment it apparently succeeded in awakening the fashion industry to the fact that industries of beauty culture produce circulate and secure very limited ideas of beauty especially in relation to race and size unfortunately a lot of the response from american vogue has been of the some of my best friends are black variety consider for example the editorial vogue ran called is fashion racist recounting the hard luck stories of three young and working black models chanel iman jourdan dunn and arlenis sosa the article seems to conclude that the answer to racism is for models to keep a strenuously positive attitude iman offers this advice nobody likes to work with someone negative and further that the real problem in the fashion industry is not racism but the supermodel s fall from power the latest issue of teen vogue however presents a much more honest portrayal of the politics of race and beauty in fashion and again iman and dunn are featured rather than glossing over the institutional structures of fashion s racism they rightly point out that the lack of opportunities for black models reproduces racial alienation on this issue a journalist at jezebel is also astute when she asserts that black can be a homogenizing category of identity that misrecognizes the ethnic and racial diversity of non white models selina khan is from the french speaking caribbean island of martinique and swears she s not black but indian mixed with arabic and creole and vietnamese actually what khan really says is my mom s indian mixed with arabic and creole and my dad is vietnamese yep indian and chinese when the interviewer asks khan to clarify i thought you said vietnamese khan explains knowingly it s ethnically the same thing just a different country now if only we could get khan to stop misrecognizing all asians as being the same posted by minh ha t pham at 2 12 pm labels model race vogue 03 august 2009 rip naomi sims naomi sims whose appearance as the first black model on the cover of ladies home journal in november 1968 was a consummate moment of the black is beautiful movement and who went on to design successful collections of wigs and cosmetics for black women under her name died saturday in newark she was 61 her family said and lived in newark eric wilson naomi sims 61 pioneering cover girl is dead new york times appearing on the cover of ladies home journal and life magazine too was not some esoteric coup noted only by the fashion obsessed it was a cultural revelation sims pushed black beauty into the mainstream in a way that was more provocative and resonant than a million black issues of italian vogue sims was also a successful businesswoman with a line of wigs aimed at african american women she was a model turned entrepreneur long before tyra banks ever uttered the word fierce long before banks was even born those twin cover achievements are far more important and lasting than being able to strut down a runway in 4 inch heels without toppling over or being a designer s muse the title supermodel is too limited too modest for what sims really managed to do she initiated a dialogue on how our culture defines beauty a dialogue that continues to this day she proved that a pretty face does not mean an empty head a fact that continues to roil our assumptions and ultimately she let the world know that a black face a black woman is someone to be reckoned with robin givhan naomi sims was no supermodel the root posted by slanderous at 8 46 pm labels model race 19 june 2008 black is the new black the july vogue italia should be arriving on american shores in the next few weeks and of course new york times cathy horyn has a sneak peak of as well as interviews with some of the models who appear in the historic issue for the thursday fashion and style section she also penned an essay called conspicuous by their presence her column and the comments posted to it include some interesting and some troubling insights reading these i want to post some initial thoughts 1 a commentator noted i m very excited about the italian vogue issue but i also think we need to remember this isn t the first time an all black issue has appeared on the news stands an all black issue is not necessarily an innovation or groundbreaking within the context of fashion publishing so much as it is a rarity after all most magazines out there are typically all white issues while a magazine like essence has always been all black but we don t make a fuss about those i think that s critically important here vogue is a gatekeeper in the industry so it s important that its publication of an all black issue be located in just this power to arbitrate what counts as fashionable as beautiful for all these reasons it s also important to ask about what anthropologist arjun appadurai calls the traffic in criteria by what criteria does vogue s publication of this issue count as historic or groundbreaking what does it mean that black aesthetic and commercial practices such as the rise of magazines like essence or jet and their critical importance to the cultivation of black models in the 1950s are corralled under a different set of criteria 2 in an e mail from stylist edward enniful on the steven meisel shoot with naomi campbell he wrote we laughed ribbed each other and talked about the old days but most of all we created a story that reflected black dreams and aspirations there was no hip hop gangsterism no ghetto fabulousness no bling bling clichés without choosing one sort of fabulousness over another i think it s fascinating how contemporary black expressive subcultures which let s face it have also become global commodities and art forms on a massive scale are somehow not located as a site for black dreams and aspirations in this statement this rhetorical maneuver seems to be happening on two levels the first implies that hip hop is either a site for only inappropriate black dreams and aspirations or that the dreams and aspirations so often expressed through hip hop are dead ends the second positions hip hop gangsterism ghetto fabulousness and bling bling clichés in opposition to a presumably more universal standard of glamour which is imagined to be clearly discernibly the proper location of black dreams et cetera and also by the way reduces hip hop to a single dimension this standard however has never been all that universal as evidenced by the heralding of this issue as historic not because it s the first ever all black issue of a fashion magazine but because it s the first ever all black issue of vogue what interests me about these qualities and values we bandy about style fashion glamour beauty sophistication excellence is their histories there s a reason why ghetto fabulousness names both a particular moment for certain not all black aesthetic practices and a particular site for their emergence i think it s important to acknowledge that in doing so ghetto fabulousness can manifest a complex and complicitous critique of the hierarchies of differential value aesthetic and socioeconomic attached to certain bodies clothes accessories et cetera these hierarchies are deeply embedded in political economic and geographic conditions deindustrialization urban underdevelopment white flight zoning laws redlining and racist discourses blackness as particular rather than universal blackness as criminal rather than aspirational the negative discourse about ghetto fabulousness as a sort of false consciousness a delusion of superficial glamour a distinct lack of rational economic or educated aesthetic sensibilities a pretense of living large by black and poor persons who are living beyond their means as if most americans aren t doing so is a direct descendant of the reagan era s stereotype of the welfare queen collecting checks and cruising in her cadillac as such it bears recognizing that all the judgments of taste rational or irrational decision making and beauty invoked in negative uses of the term ghetto fabulous are deeply ideological and contentious this is not an argument that all images of black aesthetics have to be located in hip hop or urban spaces which would be totally problematic because african diasporic aesthetics vary so widely but an argument for being thoughtful about the uneven distribution of what counts as beautiful and what is defined as ugly in counterpoint and why 3 i m excited to see toccara from america s next top model in the issue she was done wrong by the show posted by threadbared at 11 13 am 1 comment labels ghetto fabulous model race vogue older posts home subscribe to posts atom about us we are two clotheshorse academics who write teach and speak about the politics of fashion and beauty minh ha t pham based in new york city and san francisco shops sample sales with a keen and discerning eye she writes about the ways in which national publics and polities are organized around traditional and new media that are increasingly shaped and limited by neoliberal discourses and policies focusing on the fashion media and the vietnamese american media both her projects are concerned with the complex and contradictory relations of communication technologies consumerism and capitalism mimi thi nguyen based outside of chicago scours thrift and vintage stores with reckless abandon situating her scholarly work within transnational feminist cultural studies she writes about neoliberalism and humanitarianism war and empire a former zinester punk planet columnist and maximumrocknroll shitworker she has also published on punk and queer subcultures find out more about us you can also write to threadbared dot 75 at gmail dot com follow this blog with bloglovin fashion beauty a la allure garconniere 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