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description=3 posts published by Johna Till Johnson during March 2017;

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ed goodbye to the ospreys who were no doubt happy to see the interfering human depart and set off the wind was brisk and i made good time despite my reluctance for the day to end to my surprise i reached the coon key marker in early afternoon in an hour or so i d be back at the marina unpacking and maybe savoring a burger not so fast it took longer than i expected to navigate my way through the mangroves to the marina when i arrived at the boat ramp everything looked subtly different the main building seemed set at a different angle than i d recalled and the boat dock seemed larger somehow no matter i pulled the boat up on the dock and began quickly unloading it conscious of the fact that powerboat owners might want to use it a friendly man a middle aged midwestern transplant and fellow kayaker kept me company we chatted as i worked about his wife who was pushing for them to buy a condo in the area his son who did technology work at amazon about paddling i made good time unloading the boat and he helped me carry it to a grassy patch near the boat ramp another anomaly the grass wasn t exactly where i d remembered it and hadn t there been a tree overhanging it egret or more likely juvenile blue heron see the green rather than yellow legs but it wasn t until i went looking for the car that i grasped the problem the large half full parking lot was completely unfamiliar where s the big tree i asked my new friend puzzled what big tree he replied at the calusa island marina the helpful woman behind the desk had told me to park under the big tree and indeed the tree was unmistakeable over 100 years old it towered over a circle of parking spaces i distinctly remembered parking my white suv in its shade yet it was abundantly clear that there was no big tree to be found somehow i d managed to arrive at the wrong marina it had looked like my marina but then i had a foggy recollection of not looking back when i first set out big mistake what to do my new friend was as puzzled as i then he gestured to a trio of uniformed men the police might know he said i asked my questioning hampered by the fact that i couldn t remember the name of the marina i d started from they seemed doubtful but finally gave me directions to the other marina i needed to paddle around the peninsula we were on go under a bridge and there it would be something about the directions didn t seem right i didn t recall going under any bridges but then i hadn t exactly been paying attention when i set forth we d proven that i reloaded the boat said goodbye to my new friend and set off as i paddled i realized the wind and current were both with me if by any chance this was the wrong direction returning would be a challenge as i paddled i savored the view of brightly colored waterfront cottages tiny but each with its own dock several were decorated whimsically partly for the holidays but partly with that quirky south florida bohemian vibe soon i pulled away from the inhabited areas there was indeed a bridge in front of me but i could swear i d never seen it before surely i hadn t been that clueless with a deep sense of foreboding i paddled on ahead was a tiny boat dock by the side of the road with a few decrepit cars nearby it wasn t where i d started from and now i had no idea where that even was let alone what it was called this situation called for the gps i turned it on and got a rude shock it kept telling me i was at marco island several miles away and no matter what resolution i set it at i couldn t find my missing marina there was nothing for it but to go back to the marina that wasn t mine which i found out later was called walker s coon key marina and try again which i did only paddling against the wind and current it took me two hours to return as compared with the 30 minutes or so to paddle out when i finally arrived in late afternoon back at walker s i was still as stumped as before acting on a hunch i continued on past the marina unlikely as it seemed maybe there was another marina behind the first indeed there was if i d only kept paddling when i d first arrived i d have been at my marina within minutes instead of taking a three hour detour moral of the story pay close attention to your launch point so you can be sure to find it again i unloaded the boat for the second time put it on top of the car yay and left the marina tired but satisfied around sunset this particular adventure was over but stay tuned more to come looking onward to the next adventure 18 comments posted in kayaking life nature travel tagged egret heron osprey ten thousand islands freepaddling in the ten thousand islands part three posted on march 19 2017 by johna till johnson 22 comments by johna till johnson sunset on faka union canal i awoke to the sound of not very much at all a few birds piping and the rustle of air high up in the leaves the front had passed through but other than the droplets remaining after a late night shower and a smattering of branches caught in the mosquito netting above there was little to show for it the sun was up in a cloudless sky there was a gentle breeze and a few whitecaps out in the gulf nonetheless it would probably be wisest for me to stay on the inside today if the wind picked up as predicted i d be better off sheltered besides i wanted to explore the marina at the end of the faka union canal i d plotted out the trip the day before i d be traveling with the current if i left before noon and returned by sunset i decided to leave the campsite set up and make this a day trip i launched late morning arriving at the marina in early afternoon after dragging the kayak up the boat ramp and depositing it on a patch of grass i explored there was a small convenience store that sold ice cream and other goodies there was also a restaurant which tempted my empty stomach but it seemed too highbrow for a damp paddler with salt encrusted clothing and there was a large hotel apartment complex overlooking the water i returned to the convenience store had some ice cream then decided to take a selfie to share with my best friend and business partner for most of the trip i d been out of cell phone range and i knew she was worried about me this would be a good way to let her know i was fine i posed with the boat ramp behind me and smiled that awkward rictus selfie grin did you get it asked a bystander gator what gator i shot him a puzzled look what s to get in a selfie i mean the gator there s a twelve foot gator on the boat ramp behind you i thought that s why you were taking a picture i spun around and saw nothing the boat ramp was empty i d almost convinced myself he was making it up when a group of teenage boys came over chattering excitedly yes there had been a gator yes it had disappeared into the water just seconds ago well dang my first encounter with a gator on the trip thus far and i d missed it and i was about to get into the water where it likely lurked i forwarded the selfie to my friend packed up the phone and launched the paddle back was long and leisurely as the sun made its way down the western arc of sky i was still about 45 minutes from home when it set but i wasn t worried i had headlamps and the campsite was already set up i paddled through the deepening scarlet and purple skies and landed just as the first stars were peeking out it was while preparing dinner that i first heard the unearthly sound a bone chilling screech from the other end of the island trailing off into angry jabbering what was it not a panther everyone described a panther s cry as sounding like a woman s scream this was harsher and angrier i turned the headlamps on bright and scanned the wall of vegetation at the end of the island at first nothing then i saw it eyes twin green glittery reflections low to the ground an angry screech followed great whatever it was now knew exactly where i was i banged a couple of pots together and shouted into the darkness go away and leave me alone the screeching ceased for a few minutes then it started up again i scanned the forest with my headlamp was that another set of eyes two of them my mind raced with the possibilities what could it be i kept coming back to one theory a rabid raccoon yesterday carolyn had mentioned she d seen a sick raccoon would it come over to the campsite in the middle of the night and attack but what about the second set of eyes and the snarling sounded distinctly angry not sick i finally decided it must be two raccoons arguing over food perhaps a fish in which case they were unlikely to bother me if i were wrong it could be unpleasant but since there wasn t anything else to do i decided to assume i was right i finished preparing dinner ate cleaned up and went to bed at some point the snarling ceased and i drifted off to sleep the next morning dawned bright and clear thankfully no crazed raccoons had attacked me in the night though several lines of fresh tracks passed remarkably close to the boat i packed up briskly because today s plan called for a long ish paddle i had decided to venture into the everglades that meant checking in with the ranger station at everglades city and continuing on to the nearest available campground in the everglades permits are required and the rangers limit the permits by campsite to avoid overcrowding this was high season so my choices were likely limited it was a near perfect paddle warm but not too warm sun light chop and the never ending panorama of keys to my left when i reached indian key i decided to circumnavigate it and find the campsite vlad and i had missed in the night during the everglades challenge to my delight the sandbar at the inside end of the key held a stunning flock of white pelicans which i was able to capture on camera white pelicans on indian key continuing on down indian key pass to the ranger station i pleased myself by managing to recall its exact location i landed stripped off my spray skirt and tromped proudly inside my salt encrusted jacket and squelchy paddle shoes garnered nary a glance from the uninterested tourists and the rangers were pleasantly accommodating of the damp footprints their news wasn t so welcome however apparently the only available campsite was the lopez river campsite about five miles away that wasn t so bad the current was with me and if all went well i d arrive by sunset and i was briefly excited at the thought of camping on a riverbank rather than a beach but then i remembered lopez river vlad and i had attempted to have a picnic lunch there on one of our shakedown cruises and we d been driven away by the sulfurous mud and clouds of mosquitos even at midday my memories of it were unpleasant enough and in the evening it would surely be worse oh well it was the only option so i d take it as i set off towards lopez river i decided i d plan to spend the least amount of time there i could i d sleep in my paddling gear and launch early in the morning with the current true to prediction i arrived at the campsite just as the sun was setting there was already a large group at one end of the campsite with eight or ten kayaks covering the beach making it impossible to land special regulations apply the only option was the other end which was occupied by two picnic tables and a lone kayaker a lean man with long graying hair and an appearance that made me think he was native american by the looks of his gear he was also a seasoned camper you have a neighbor i announced unsurprisingly he didn t seem too happy there s no room he replied i explained that the rangers had sent me here and assured him i d respect his privacy and do my best to stay out of the way as he watched the sunset i pulled the boat up and decided to pitch my bivy sack in the only available spot a muddy patch of land between the two picnic tables his gear was spread out on one so i used the other we chatted briefly as i prepared and ate dinner he was an artist from the west coast at the tail end of a 10 day trip so my guess about being a seasoned camper was correct he seemed nice enough and he was happy to listen to the weather report on my radio which called for a mild enough night that i decided to eschew a sleeping bag maybe this campsite wouldn t be so bad after all wrong on all fronts as i found out over the next few hours at first things were fine yes the site was buggy but i d expected that the head net kept the skeeters away from my face and the jacket and waterproof pants protected me to the ankles and wrists and yes the ground was hard and muddy with just enough mangrove fingers poking up to make it impossible to find a comfortable position and yes there was the sulfurous smell i d remembered mud bugs bad smell it wasn t perfect but nothing worse than expected and i reminded myself again that i d be launching early ideally before dawn how bad could one night be i was about to find out the first inkling came about 45 minutes after we d retired to our respective tents i was just drifting off to sleep when there was a loud resonant rumble from his tent so long and loud that it took me a few seconds to figure out what it was my neighbor had farted the loudest longest fart i d ever heard it took a few seconds for me to realize that with a sound like that there would also be the smell reached me a moment later the stench overwhelming the sulfurous mud whatever my neighbor had had for dinner obviously disagreed with him and was now disagreeing with me a few minutes later there was another one long enough that i could count the beats like a freight train i turned away and sunk my head as deeply as i could into the collar of my jacket trying to avoid the fumes it was obviously going to be a long night but it was only getting started after my neighbor s stomach rumblings had subsided a loud unearthly moan issued from his tent startling me apparently he was having a nightmare over the next few minutes he thrashed and moaned sometimes muttering unintelligibly i was wide awake nerves tingling from the adrenaline rush after a while the silences between the moans grew longer and i relaxed maybe the show was over and i could get some sleep i was just drifting off again when he shouted in a voice full of menace you want more i ll give you more now i was actually afraid there was no possible scenario in which those words uttered in that tone of voice could be benign but he was clearly asleep i reminded myself people aren t responsible for what they dream no matter i wasn t falling asleep for a long while because after the noises subsided the cold began contrary to the predictions the night got colder and colder and colder i could tuck my legs up inside my jacket and be warm enough but after 20 minutes of sleep i was stiff and aching and had to change position i could always go get my sleeping bag from the boat but it would take a while and subject me to the clouds of mosquitos that still whined incessantly outside despite the chill plus repacking the sleeping bag would delay the mornin...