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emed ball i wanted to wear something hot to impress a guy i was crushing on at the time but he didn t even go to the ball and nobody else was interested in me here i am going to a yacht rock themed party in a hipster bar again i was trying to impress a guy i was into at the time but basically nobody else dressed up so i looked like a total idiot bless you my child here i am at my 33rd birthday my jesus year dressed as the virgin mary i had an led torch hidden in my bra that made my sacred heart glow this is not sexy at all but it is my favourite fancy dress costume of all time i think i look amazing mother of christ that d be nice posted by mel at 6 05 pm 2 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels history my clothes out of shape monday july 06 2015 lorna jane has a fit model problem boutique activewear brand lorna jane is currently enduring a severe tutting from the online media after it posted a job advertisement for a dual role at its hq as a receptionist and a fit model my initial response was to tweet fit model is a legit job that needs specific body dimensions but lorna jane shouldn t combine it with another job obviously anyone can do a receptionist job but not everyone can be a fit model your measurements need to embody the brand s sizing fit modelling isn t fitness modelling which is a genre of modelling in which the models look athletic and have very defined muscles and very little body fat rather fit models work in the back end of the industry unlike regular models who get booked by matching a designer art director or stylist s desired look fit models stay employed by winning another kind of genetic lottery possessing a body whose proportions match the vital statistics of a manufacturer s target customer when i was writing out of shape i did a fair bit of research into fit modelling that didn t make it into the final book there really isn t very much discussion of this fascinating subset of the modelling industry just as we prefer to concentrate on the glamorous world of fashion weeks and couture rather than the nuts and bolts business of garment production at many clothing manufacturers employees step in as fit models when required in addition to their regular jobs and at some fashion labels including famously leona edmiston the designer uses himself or herself as the fit model i wish i could ve got one local designer to go on record with his yarn that having used himself as his fit model his sizing began to get smaller when he lost weight something he only realised when a longtime customer pointed it out kathleen fasanella who to me is the authoritative resource on the technical aspects of fashion had a great two part blog series about fit modelling natasha wagner has fitted for jeans brands ranging from gap and old navy to levi s 7 for all mankind and proenza schouler leading vogue to dub her the model whose bottom is shaping a nation and here are some fun first person accounts by sable yong who at 5 2 works as a fit model for petites when i interviewed clea garrick of australian fashion label limedrop she told me she tests her sample garments on several fit models who wear a size 8 differently taller or shorter and with varying body proportions so she can get a sense for how each garment will look on different body shapes not just sizes we still do make garments that are fluid and flowing so our sizing is not as strict on some pieces as they appear in measurements she added we aim to make fashion that looks great on real people not just models lorna jane on the other hand needs a fit model more than many fashion labels because all its products are form fitting and stretchy the way tight clothes compress the body can t properly be predicted from using industrial fit mannequins which is why it s so important to use a live model who can report how the tightness feels when i looked at the the websites of specialist fit modelling agencies i was struck by their galleries of pretty girls photographed at full length and labelled with specs of height and body measurements the effect is slightly unnerving like a flipbook of mugshots or mail order brides they all hover around a standard australian size 8 10 and all have a similar svelte leggy look yet it s heartening and strangely touching to see how even these girls whose job it is to be living dress forms represent the shape variations of the human body their proportions all slightly different and this is important a fit model isn t always a house model like clea some brands bring in several differently shaped women to test the tolerance of the size being fitted however fit models are inextricable from the practice of targeted sizing as christina cato commented at fasanella s site fashion incubator i ve worked with fit models at a very well known company in the time that i worked for them we went through 4 different fit models we were also working on an identity crisis with understanding our customer once it was determined who she was the fit model was replaced with someone that would better fit that ideal it is not a general ideal or an average it is specific to the woman that buys this line of clothing through constant customer feedback the fit is refined and if needed the fit model is changed the clothes certainly don t fit everyone i couldn t wear them but the customers that can wear them are extremely loyal the fit is the signature of the industry i think it s very clever to keep that a secret and to keep it unique it ensures that the loyal customers remain loyal lorna jane however has the same image problem as its fellow fashion sportswear label lululemon in claiming to champion health and fitness yet targeting a particularly small thin customer lorna jane has been accused of excluding potential customers who also aspire to be healthy sexy and stylish but who fall outside its target size range so it seems extremely tone deaf of lorna jane to advertise the fit model job which legitimately has very specific requirements alongside the receptionist job which can and indeed legally must be offered to applicants of any age gender ability and body shape and size a lorna jane spokesperson told crikey as a fit model is only required in a part time capacity lorna jane felt it appropriate to combine this position with the part time receptionist role which is also currently vacant there are a number of positions within our business that combine roles to accommodate the needs and interests of our staff for me this media outrage stems from the same what about me attitudes that i see again and again in media discussions about clothing size i really hoped that out of shape would help dispel them but they keep being repeated in article after article and as i noted in 2013 about abercrombie and fitch people really struggle to get their heads around the legitimate marketing practice of targeted sizing in the fashion industry there is a widespread belief that consumers deserve to be able to wear whatever brand they want as long as they have the money to buy it and that if they don t fit into the brand s clothes then this is the brand s conspiratorial moral judgment we hear things like x brand doesn t care about real women x brand doesn t want to tarnish their brand with customers like me and x brand promotes unhealthy body image conversely when a brand decides to offer a broader size range the media report this as an act of generosity and moral acceptance rather than what it really is a decision to target a different market and we ll hear things like y brand understands real women y brand is welcoming and inclusive of customers like me and y brand promotes healthy body image for me the main problem with lorna jane s two for one job ad is that it has allowed the perceptions of exclusion and discrimination associated with its brand to extend to its broader hiring practices workplace law specialist peter vitale told smartcompany that it s unlawful in some jurisdictions to discriminate against someone based on their personal appearance much depends on the way a job ad is phrased and the way lorna jane have structured the ad hasn t done them any favours because it s for a receptionist as well the ad probably sailed a bit close to the wind lorna jane has made it easy for onlookers to infer as some media reports have done that the company only wants to hire employees with very small body sizes in any role but the company is perfectly entitled to seek a fit model whose proportions reflect those of its target customer posted by mel at 9 38 pm no comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels brands dialogue out of shape saturday november 15 2014 wearing the same thing every day check out this guy always wearing the same grey t shirt and charcoal hoodie you don t need a facial recognition algorithm to know who he is it s social overlord mark zuckerberg of course captured by his nemesis google recently zuckerberg did a q a at facebook headquarters and was asked why he always wears the same grey t shirt he answered i really want to clear my life to make it so that i have to make as few decisions as possible about anything except how best to serve this community i feel like i m not doing my job if i spend any of my energy on things that are silly or frivolous i decided to blog about this but as the blog post got more detailed i thought why don t i actually pitch this as a feature story so i did and you can read the rest of it over at junkee i m glad they have a style section over there so i can pitch these kinds of stories this has been one of my more popular stories lately i m surprised by the pageviews and the number of comments and that it s got the biggest reach of anything i ve posted on my facebook page in the last three months that said the comments seem to have taken issue with the way i situate wearing the same thing every day within a culture of technologised neoliberalism jeff sparrow s essay on soylent has been very influential in my thinking about this but of course there is the broader truism that anyone who actually uses the term neoliberalism tends to do so suggesting it is a socially corrosive structural phenomenon whereas those who might actually practise and enable neoliberalism rarely acknowledge it as a guiding philosophy at all preferring to couch it as a climate of ideologically empty individual choice to me it seems obvious that much of tech culture s thinking about the body is instrumental obsessed with what the body can be used to achieve rather than how it looks or feels and also can t be disentangled from the historic disparagement of the nerd body and the way it s dressed popular culture has created this category of the nerd or geek as someone who lives in his head the nerd is a historically male category and so consequently is either incompetent or uninterested in the social and aesthetic aspects of dress when i as much as raised the issue of gender and the way that being interested in clothes is feminised and hence devalued commenters told me i was reading too much into this so i guess it s really about ethics in videogame journalism i also feel that some people who either identify as or get categorised as geeks might experience clothing primarily as a weapon of social distinction rather than as a source of joy or pleasure at school clothes are used to police in crowds and are adopted as badges of honour by defiant subcultural outsiders if you felt victimised by or wanted to opt out of all that bullshit you might say i don t care about what i wear but as a researcher of clothes i think very few people genuinely don t care about what they wear i suspect that people who deliberately wear the same thing every day rather than dress randomly from a limited pool of utilitarian clothes actually have much more invested in the issue of clothing and have a keener awareness of what their clothing says about them than your stereotypical absent minded professor whose mum or wife or workplace supplies his clothing so the semiotic question what wearing the same thing every day might express about a person is the issue i focus on in the junkee feature posted by mel at 7 50 pm 2 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels dialogue publications stylism monday september 22 2014 back on deck on the weekend i went away and got a pretty good haul at the venus bay op shop this was a proper country op shop with old fashioned prices the lambswool angora jumper stretch miniskirt glomesh wallet glitter shoelaces and leather shoes cost me a grand total of 12 you can probably also tell that it s seven sisters spring a trans seasonal period that s not too hot and not too cold and it s the class dimensions of this look that i find quite confronting even though they were only 5 i really angsted over whether to buy the boat shoes when i was at school and uni boat shoes were the uniform of private school louts along with rugby shirts and chino pants i associate them with the sexism and political conservatism that come with being complacent about gender and class privilege but in recent years i ve noticed that cool young people are wearing chinos albeit skinny legged rather than the pleated baggy sort popular in the 90s boat shoes and chambray shirts often worn buttoned to the neck it s as if they are reinscribing these garments connotations of wealth as aspirational and glamorous similarly to the way ivy style and prep are nostalgic for a vanished wasp elite recently i read an eye opening tatler feature about the scottish aristocracy reading tatler always sends me into a tailspin of who even are these people and thought to myself this is the culture that produced my beloved british country winter aesthetic what do i love about this look if i m being honest it is that it s an elite look one that speaks of the low key luxury and leisure that intergenerational wealth can enable boat shoes also known as deck shoes or top siders are intended to be worn for leisure boating as their name implies interestingly john sipe the innovator of cutting grooves in the rubber tread of tyres to increase their traction in slippery conditions is frequently said to have cut lines in his own shoes while working in a slaughterhouse hardly an elite occupation the recognisable style sturdily stitched leather deep treaded rubber soles moccasin style top seamed toe leather laces threaded through eyelets was invented in 1935 by avid boater paul sperry who called them the sperry top sider they took off in 1939 when the us navy decided to make them standard issue for sailors traditionally they are never worn with socks because of the historical association of leisure boating with the monied us north east who also sent their sons to ivy league colleges a practical item became a signifier of privilege but as jessica friedmann commented on my instagram there s definitely a class connotation but i like...