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perfumed letters reading the scent trail of fragrance and words menu home about copyright and fine print research perfumed letters reading the scent trail of fragrance and words february 27 2015 by perfumedletters 4 comments mimosa under the mimosa cassis 2015 chatting with a good friend on our usual after coffee stroll i become distracted by a permeating dry vegetal polleny almost bleachy odor that i have not smelled for years a fragrance which has haunted me since i first discovered it long ago in aix en provence a fragrance which has more that once driven me to spend my last moments abroad stuffing zip lock bags with dried blossoms to assure an olfactory fix for months on end once i m back in the states after nearly a decade of depravation suddenly i m enveloped in this strangely seductive odor i interrupt my friend that smell where is it coming from she points in the direction of my left shoulder i turn to find that i m standing directly under a mimosa tree in glorious garish golden bloom i inhale if you live in a climate where it grows california southern france parts of italy for example mimosa may be familiar even common common as in ubiquitous common as is in not particularly fine or sought after the stuff of country kitsch motifs on souvenir trinkets and table linens for me though it is the holy grail of fragrance i have learned from perfumers in france and italy that the there are over 1000 varieties of mimosa the one on which i ve imprinted may be acacia dealbata or acacia farnesiana not to be confused with acacia also called cassie not to be confused with cassis or cassia or even the city of cassis more about that here since mimosa will not grow in the humid climate i now call home i ve been on a decades long mission to find a facsimile of the scent that makes me swoon and having tested every mimosa soliflore and blend that has crossed my nose thanks to patient sales assistants workshop facilitators perfumers and countless perfumista sample sharers you know who you are and i thank you once again i can say with confidence that none of them smells like the flower though they all smell more like mimosa than say rose gardenia lily of the valley magnolia honeysuckle jasmine tuberose violet violet leaf well you get the idea i find mimosa extracts oils and perfumes somewhat sweet or almondy or powdery three adjectives i would not apply to the natural flower is it possible that mimosa like coumarin is perceived differently by different noses i remember filling an apartment with bouquets of fragrant mimosa that two of my housemates could scarcely detect while the third had to open a window to dissipate their insistent sillage in one of my countless attempts to find mimosa in a bottle i spoke with a perfume shop owner in florence who understood my plight he explained that due to their dryness mimosa flowers are hard pressed to be pressed as it were or to submit to various means of odor extraction aha so it wasn t just my nose but other perfumers have insisted this is not true further detective work proved validating which is to say disappointing says roja dove it is almost impossible to find an oil that naturally smells of mimosa as with so many materials the oil smells nothing like the primary ingredient in this case the oil often smells powdery the essence of perfume p 53 this observation certainly applies to my experience of sniffing mimosa absolute pure and diluted there is an almondly bit around the edges of the absolute absent in the real flower but nearly seemingly inevitable in mimosa perfumes i ve come to the conclusion that for many people who buy and manufacture perfumes the smell of mimosa absolute has taken over the odor identity of the flower would head space technology work to capture the real thing i suspect that there is not enough interest in marketing the true scent to motivate such an experiment what i need is a perfumer who appreciates mimosa as much as edmond roudnitska did lily of the valley when he composed diorissimo someone who will lovingly create a synthetic mimosa clone in the meantime i ve discovered that to get my mimosa fix paradoxically i must go against nature by avoiding the soliflores most indebted to various mimosa absolutes this is a reminder that perfume is not necessary a literal art just as music does not have to be played in a minor key to provoke tears just as an abstract painting can capture grief as jarringly as a faithful depiction of horrific events mimosaness can be conveyed in in the mood of a fragrance composition so far une fleur de cassie to be the best interpretation of mimosa for me it is not a literal translation but the dirty cumin note is a good choice for capturing the character the mood of the flower nicely so close and yet so far more mimosa mimosa with a view read about undina s search for the perfect mimosa all photos my own share this share on x opens in new window x share on facebook opens in new window facebook like loading categories cap canaille cassis mimosa tags une fleur de cassie permalink post navigation older posts search this blog search for recent posts mimosa people take pictures of the summer endangered smells womanity and the fragrant grotesque updates on perfume and pages slowly going slowly and postcards from summer 2013 sniffing around paris to a passerby belated post cards from lyon getting your hands dirty in grasse cambouis by parfums gaglewski grasse s gardens of addiction orpheus unscented scents of the day coffee gautier and jasmin noir perfume prequels no 5 eau première and shalimar parum initial smelly shopping with rachilde white noise for the nose olfactory white sampling notes micallef art collection vanille sampling notes l ambre des merveilles monsters from the id and witchy brews warm and cozy winter woods sonoma scent studio on fidelity and signature scents scherrer 2 revisted archives archives select month february 2015 september 2014 august 2014 may 2014 february 2014 august 2013 may 2013 march 2013 january 2013 december 2012 november 2012 october 2012 september 2012 august 2012 july 2012 june 2012 may 2012 april 2012 march 2012 february 2012 january 2012 december 2011 august 2011 july 2011 june 2011 march 2011 february 2011 october 2010 september 2010 august 2010 categories categories select category annick goutal état libre l orange bal à versailles baudelaire bibliothèque nationale de france blogging bnf bois d argent book review books calanques camille goutal cap canaille cassis céline ellena chanel charogne chergui cozé diptyque envy etat libre d orange febreze field notes from paris film noir flânerie flora france frédéric malle frédéric mistral french literature gaglewski galeries lafayette good karma café grasse hôtel costes hugo idole iris ganache isabelle doyen j peterman catalogue jean claude ellena journal d un parfumeur jovoy l eau de cassis perfume labels linden literature lubin lucrezia lumière brothers lyon magazine marie antoinette métro micallef michael storer mimosa miriam mystery vials news on smell note de peau nu nuit étoilée on the scent trail opium orphée orpheus orris paris perfume and books perfume and culture perfume and film perfume and images perfume decants perfume encounters perfume events perfume names perfume party petite robe noire quotes perfume quotes rachilde roger gallet salt air sampling journal sanchez scent columns scent inserts scents of the day scratch and sniff seinfeld sens unique showtime signature scent smell and literature smell and vision smell of words smell quotes smell science smellscape starry night stephanie summer tam dao the borgias the guide tom of finland travel truth turin uncategorized vincent van gogh what s in the air winter star about books and film scents of fiction and non fiction deluxe how luxury lost its luster by dana thomas for nst glamour women history feminism by carol dyhouse for nst journal d un parfumeur by jean claude ellena for nst mademoiselle de maupin by théophile gautier margaret atwood for nst monsieur venus by rachilde my book reviews for nst in one link once upon a time perfume by annick le guerer for nst orpheus unscented jean cocteau s orphée 1950 perfumes a z the guide by luca turin and tania sanchez about specific perfumes sampling notes and fleeting commentary amber and lavender jo malone ambre des merveilles hermès ambre gris balmain après l ondée guerlain boisé torride guerlain cambouis parfums gaglewski charogne etat libre d orange cozé parumerie générale cuir beluga guerlain drama nuui parmulerie générale en passant frédéric malle enjoy patou envy gucci iris ganache guerlain jasmin noir bvlgari l eau d hiver éditions de parfum frédéric malle lucrezia spoof ad with magazine scent strip no 5 eau première chanel nuit étoilée annick goutal scherrer 2 jean louis scherrer shalimar parfum initial guerlain stephanie michael storer tam dao diptyque tom of finland état libre d orange winter woods sonoma scent studio womanity thierry mugler more blogs and sites dedicated to perfume and smell culture another perfume blog australian perfume junkies basenotes beauty on the outside bloody frida a perfume journey bois de jasmin bonkers about perfume coming to my senses elisabeth de feydeau s news in french esprit de parfum first nerve fragrantica grain de musc now smell this olfactive olfactoria s travels parfümieren perfume shrine persolaise a perfume blog scents memory smellyblog the candy perfume boy the chemist in a bottle the fragrant man undina s looking glass yesterday s perfume more to read not primarily related to smell culture a hymn to intellectual beauty creative minds and fashion blind spot delayed response thoughts from the staircase helen abbott the other abbey road follow me on twitter tweets by cherylperfume create a free website or blog at wordpress com top subscribe subscribed perfumed letters join 49 other subscribers sign me up already have a wordpress com account log in now privacy perfumed 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