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Text of the page (random words):
language hilary chienne michal i would rather not say 17 what profession other than your own would you like to attempt michal classical musicianship any aspect of classical music be it conducting or playing an instrument hilary shakespearean actor 18 what profession would you not like to do hilary politician michal working in a slaughter house or being a butcher 19 if heaven exists what would you like to hear god say when you arrive at the pearly gates michal relax honey hilary my dear you look and smell fabulous 20 what perfume would you like god to be wearing when he says that to you hilary joy vintage joy from fifty years ago because i would know my mother was near and i would be with her once more after so many years michal en passant a heavenly scent i hope you enjoyed this time with hilary and michal they are indeed extraordinary people as sales associates in their stores they go beyond what is expected giving great service to every person who comes to see them more than that they are wonderful friends that i am privileged to know if you come to san francisco drop by barney s for hilary and neiman marcus for michal and say hello bring your open mind and your nose ready for a fabulous journey let them be your guides just as they have been and will continue to be mine tell them lanier sent you june 19 2014 categories arquiste dior diptyque editions de parfums frederic malle fragrance guerlain interview l artisan parfumeur men s cologne perfume tigerlily perfume uni sex fragrance union square women s perfume yves saint laurent tags guerlain hilary randall l artisan parfumeur la collection privée christian dior men s cologne michal gazinski paris perfume san francisco shopping women s perfume author laniersmith comments 12 comments chandler meets freddie chandler burr interview with smelly thoughts fasten your seat belts it s going to be a bumpy night margo channing all about eve 1950 well i couldn t have said it better about our next installment on the global interview event with chandler burr don t miss it it is a fascinating read click on the link below and hang on link http smellythoughts wordpress com 2013 10 22 smellythoughts interview with chandler burr comment 4365 photo stolen from smelly thoughts next up in the series chandler talks with natalie at another perfume blog october 23 2013 categories interview tags chandler burr museum of art and design smelly thoughts the art of scent exhibition untitled series open sky author laniersmith comments 4 comments untitled and m a d questions for chandler burr a series of interviews my intention with the untitled series is to give 100 people a month the same opportunity i had at the times the experience of perfume unprotected constrained by marketing and unassisted by the sense of sight chandler burr photo matthew furman imagine my surprise to discover only two weeks ago that chandler burr author of a separate creation the emperor of scent the perfect scent and you or someone like you was on facebook not a group page or a fan page but just there accessible and smiling i then noticed that some of my fragrance friends were friends with him as well there it was the 1 add friend button right in front of me why not click that button i thought the next day i received a notice that chandler burr had accepted my friendship request so it was only proper to send a thank you note and that connection leads us to this series of interviews with the former perfume critic for the new york times former curator of the department of olfactory art at the museum of arts and design in new york city author lecturer and organizer of the incredible scent dinners and the man who couldn t get matt lauer to loosen up and smell the roses admit he liked a perfume on the today show over the next few weeks mr burr will be interviewed by a select group of perfume bloggers each with very different and exciting points of view you will be able to follow them from here with links as they happen the two main topics we will be discussing are as follows the recent museum of art and design exhibition created by chandler burr the art of scent 1889 2012 and the wonderful catalog and the essays from the exhibition and the incredible untitled series at open sky on this series a perfume is presented blind each month to be tested with out the participants knowing anything about it then at the end of the month the perfume is revealed with the opportunity to be purchased if the participants so desire at the end of this interview there are links to the m a d catalog and the untitled series the catalog with samples of each perfume are for sale the link is at the end of the interview it gives me great pleasure to present to you my interview with chandler burr a man of great charm wit talent and generosity a man with a magnificent nose lanier smith let s talk about a few of the perfumes and artist featured in the catalog you re your recent the art of scent 1889 2012 exhibition at the museum of art and design actually less about the perfumes but about the questions that arise in my mind from the wonderful essays you wrote in the catalog jicky and genitals as i understand it at the time that jicky was created in 1889 there were no gender assignments to perfume just as there is no gender assignment to the eiffel tower created the very same year when did that change and why aimé guerlain 1834 1910 the genius of jicky is that it could never have existed in nature guerlain had created both a new work of art and a new art form candler burr chandler burr it changed mid 20 th century for a very specific reason the industry needed to sell perfume to heterosexual american men and given that for some reason straight american men instantly equate scent with femininity which italian and french men don t at all perfume marketers had to use gendering to give them psychoemotional permission to wear scent so they put homme or for him or whatever on the bottles and the guys calmed the hell down francis fabron 1913 2005 l interdit is extraordinary for its strange beauty which ignores time it is a work that smells as if it were made tomorrow chandler burr lanier smith the legend says and the ads would lead us to believe that l interdit was created by hubert de givenchy for audrey hepburn now thanks to you turning the spotlight on the true artists of the medium of scent we know it was created by francis fabron how important is the actual smell of a perfume to the fashion house givenchy for instance compared to the advertising where does most of the money go in the creation of a perfume chandler burr i get this question all the time and the answer is a little frustrating because it s easy to respond that somewhat infuriatingly most of the money goes into the packaging and marketing and on a bottle by bottle basis that s true in general the majority of the money per bottle goes into the bottle cap cardboard liner cardboard box the marketing images on the box in billboards on the designer s website and vimeo and the condé nast entertainment network the film in which a model or actor walks moodily through a greek ruin versailles hallway high production value film set but it s not that simple it s been a surprise to me to be told the actual prices of several of the juices we take for granted frequently perfumes i didn t think of as particularly expensive they are and the willingness of a patron to give the artist a serious amount of money to work with per kilo makes it somewhat irrelevant that per bottle the packaging costs more add the complexity of the different concentrations which hugely changes the price multiply 100ml of expensive oil in alcohol solution and you can get to a vertiginous investment very fast when jerry vittoria brought the firmenich perfumers and evaluators on a tour of the dept of olfactory art at mad we had a fascinating debate about whether or not they the perfumers themselves cared about the bottle again surprisingly to me i just assume everyone in the industry shares my who the hell cares about the wrapping let s just smell the juice opinion harry fremont said he absolutely wanted his perfumes in their bottles with their images at which ilias i think it was said he absolutely would prefer everything in a lab bottle which i agreed with of course at which other perfumers argued that the visuals were inherent to the experience and i said my usual thing about you don t wear the bottle or the girl you wear the juice startled at having to make this argument to perfumers and so on by the way my understanding is that de givenchy told hepburn he was naming the perfume audrey hepburn to which she replied je vous l interdit i forbid you from doing it so he called it l interdit who knows if it s true it certainly makes a nice story and it s an insanely killer perfume imminently wearable today one of the all time greats i wear it magazine add for l interdit by givenchy lanier smith with the emergence of the american school with aromatic elixir by bernard chant it seems that opens the way to many other american design houses to take off as they did in the 1970 s and 80 s yet isn t it true that the first american perfume to rock the french establishment was estee lauder s youth dew was that a fluke or a forerunner to the emergence of the united states as a power in the world of perfume bernard chant 1927 1987 aromatics elixir transcended the somber formality of classical french style and gave way to a work capable of conveying multiple narratives simultaneously here was a french story but the story was told for the first time in english chandler burr chandler burr my understanding is that yes youth dew was the first american perfume commissioned by perhaps the greatest of american scent patrons estée lauder created by an american artist josephine catapano it was a forerunner but as i pointed out the art of scent exhibition when artists import styles from other cultures they often work in the school then dominant or even more conservatively a previous hallowed school in this case it was the classical late 19 th century french school youth dew reassured clients that even though it was made in america it was thoroughly french in the way that lexus first put out cars that if anything out mercedesed mercedes made in japan but as good as made in germany once established lexus came into its own as did american patrons and scent artists lanier smith i never got angel by olivier cresp and thought it too sweet for my nose but in the context of surrealism it makes perfect sense and i can appreciate its maladjusted juxtaposition of notes with a fresh nose now it is fun placing perfume in the world of art is extraordinary and to some it seems a stretch why is it important for the world to understand that a bottle of angel is just as valid and important as the christ of saint john on the cross by salvador dali olivier cresp b 1955 cresp s use of ethyl maltol which he transformed from subtle ornament to fundamental structural material pushed olfactory art to new extremes and placed shocking artificiality in full view this was the progenitor of an olfactory pop art movement that arrived in the mid 1990s and continues today chandler burr chandler burr i m glad it made sense for you when seen as surrealist art that one seemed overwhelmingly obvious to me as does industrialism for drakkar noir which is in fact a better example of industrialist art than virtually any other you could name in any medium but i was concerned about some of them calder s work that broke sculptures up into pieces and made them move in space around each other dividing and re coalescing into the same but different works seemed quite like cresp s approach in light blue so i called calice becker somewhat apprehensively started to explain my aesthetic reasoning and at the words alexander calder she said perfect i was relieved lanier smith the tastes of the masses seem to be at a watered down level of safe sugar and laundry fresh geared more toward the teen aged audience than more sophisticated noses for a very long time perfume has been moving away it seems from the classic feel of perfumes like chanel no 5 shalimar and the like but with prada amber by carlos benaim max gavarry and clement gavarry in the art of scent exhibition you herald the arrival of neo romanticism do you believe that the truly great perfumes of the future will only come from niche designers or can a dior or chanel still be viable to as important creative perfume houses carlos benaïm b 1944 max gavarry b 1937 and clément gavarry b 1977 prada amber however is a unique contemporary work in that it draws directly and principally from the 19th century school in lesser hands it could easily have fallen into a mere pastiche chandler burr chandler burr i admit it s extremely rough for the big houses to take risks perhaps the largest risk being again putting a serious amount of money into the work i can make lofty statements like in the long run if they don t make beautiful which means somewhat costly works they ll find mass clients dropping away mostly just by buying less mediocre perfume not due to trading up to expensive niche but there are of course so many exceptions to that that who knows if it s true for a good suit you drop coin see under tom ford i don t even go in the store at the moment maybe in a few years for shirts shorts flip flops i love old navy there are some awesome perfume flip flop equivalents and there s nothing wrong with wearing them but they re not going to last i m thinking about the top 30 and some are old navy s but others are metaphorically tom fords beyond paradise and sensual were both very expensive juices and innovative perfumes neither made it my personal opinion beyond paradise is excellent flower bomb coco mademoiselle a work of pure loveliness angel pleasures all of these are innovative and costly all are commercial brands and all are killing it so who the hell knows lanier smith now i have a few questions about the exciting untitled series on open sky did this idea come from your scent dinners if not how did you come up with the concept that is so exciting a whole month of smelling a perfume without brad pitt or natalie portman whispering in your ear how much you should love it chandler burr the idea for the untitled series didn t come from the scent dinners it came directly from the way my assistant and i smelled things at the ny times i had great assistants the point of my scent notes column was that it was exclusively juice juice juice so we had a very specific approach every week my assistant would arrive before i did unpack the new scents that had arrived that week and i d come in half an hour later drop my backpack and sit down he or she would wordlessly hand me an unmarked white blotter and we d smell you weren t allowed to change expression at all when we felt like it one of us would start reacting and the conversation would go from there the scents we agreed were ...